Another new Strider reprofiled and stropped...wicked!

M

mystro

Joined
Aug 26, 2010
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I have reprofiled all my Striders but every time I reprofile a new Strider, it can be a tough mind game to reprofile a new $450.00 knife. I just put on my game face and dig in. If you go slow at first, its really not difficult. I think I have done 5 now and everyone has come out great but its always a bit of a chore with Striders excellent heat treatment. Striders factory edge is a good working edge but like anything, "good" can be "great" with a little time and effort.. I used my Lansky Diamond pro system to put the 20deg edge per side. I finish the blade with a leather strop and polish. I have found the 40 degree inclusive edge to be perfect for the SNG and SMF. It doesn't chip but turns a hard use knife into a "super slicing" hard use knife. A side benefit for doing your own reprofiling is its a easier to maintain for touch ups since YOU decided the cutting angle. I recommend the 20 degree per side angle for Strider owners looking for a hair popping wicked edge.

SNGBlade20degstrop.jpg
 
Just for a reference, here is a pic of a SMF I did with a 20 degree angle. As most know, the SMF has a bit thicker blade than the SNG. The tip on the SMF requires more work because of it's thickness.


SMFedge.jpg
 
mystro said:
Just for a reference, here is a pic of a SMF I did with a 20 degree angle. As most know, the SMF has a bit thicker blade than the SNG. The tip on the SMF requires more work because of it's thickness.


SMFedge.jpg
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Looks like a professional job. Nice! How did you keep the bevel the same width all the way up to the tip. When I sharpen Striders on the WE system the bevel seems to widen a bit at the tip.
 
PAZach said:
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Looks like a professional job. Nice! How did you keep the bevel the same width all the way up to the tip. When I sharpen Striders on the WE system the bevel seems to widen a bit at the tip.
Click to expand...

One of two things, or maybe both, going on when that happens. Some makers and manufacturers leave the edge thicker at the tip when grinding, before the edge is ever put on. The flat on the edge before sharpening may be 0.02 inches near the pivot, and 0.032 inches wide at the tip. This gives a stronger tip. If the tip is sharpened at a carefully controlled angle, and the angle is the same all along the edge, the tip will naturally have a wider bevel.

The other thing is that, on systems like the Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Lansky, etc., the further the stone is away from the guide rod support or pivot, the shallower the angel becomes. On short knives it's hardly noticable, but on a chef's knife it would be. I'd bet you are getting the effects of both, though the thicker tip probably plays a much bigger role, given the intended strength level of Strider's folders.
 
me2 said:
One of two things, or maybe both, going on when that happens. Some makers and manufacturers leave the edge thicker at the tip when grinding, before the edge is ever put on. The flat on the edge before sharpening may be 0.02 inches near the pivot, and 0.032 inches wide at the tip. This gives a stronger tip. If the tip is sharpened at a carefully controlled angle, and the angle is the same all along the edge, the tip will naturally have a wider bevel.

The other thing is that, on systems like the Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Lansky, etc., the further the stone is away from the guide rod support or pivot, the shallower the angel becomes. On short knives it's hardly noticable, but on a chef's knife it would be. I'd bet you are getting the effects of both, though the thicker tip probably plays a much bigger role, given the intended strength level of Strider's folders.
Click to expand...

That's one of the reason why moving the blades as you sharpen on the EP is good, on the larger blades we have to move them, but on blades around 4" they can stay in one spot.

On blades that have good grinds or the blade doesn't get thicker towards the tip the bevel will be even all the way across keeping it on one spot, not moving it.

On 6" blades or over moving them is good to keep the blade near the center, great for kitchen knives because they are so thin and flexable.

Even if the blades with the thicker tips will show that larger bevel even if the tip is dead center on the table because it will require more metal to be removed than the thinner part of the blade.
 
I am going to do a pictorial demo on how I reprofile my knives with the Lansky system.
 
Thanks for the advice

I'll keep that in mind when my factory edge is toast
 
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