Another S30V Chipping thread

gunmike1

gunmike1

Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
2,402
My Walmart Native had been a good EDC for me for over a month, but had minimal use, just some paper here and thin cardboard there, and it had shown no hint of losing it's edge. I bought a swingset Saturday, and when I cut the bands around the cardboard box (thick, tough paper, not metal), I looked at the edge and there was a good amount of chipping, especially near the tip. I used the sharpmaker to tune it back up (at about 12 degrees per side), but the tip still has a noticeable chip out of it. The next time I have enough time I will take the time neccesary to get rid of the chipping. Hopefully at that pooint the chipping issues will go away, but we will have to see.
 
I hope your luck is better than mine was .... after several full sharpenings my Native still was chipping cutting cardboard, in fact just trying to apply a microbevel of 15-17 degrees per side using very, very light pressure on a Sharpmaker produced chipping. Really a shame, I like the ergonomics of the knife a lot.
 
I cut heavy cardboard all the time with mine, and I have no problems with chipping. I even accidentally dropped it tip down on concrete and there was no chipping or breakage. I think yours is defective.
 
I've cut thick plastic banding and cardboard many times with my Native with no chipping whatsoever.
 
Dog of War said:
I hope your luck is better than mine was .... after several full sharpenings my Native still was chipping cutting cardboard, in fact just trying to apply a microbevel of 15-17 degrees per side using very, very light pressure on a Sharpmaker produced chipping. Really a shame, I like the ergonomics of the knife a lot.
Click to expand...

I agree about the ergonomics, they are great. I'm hoping mine gets better after a couple sharpenings like others have reported, but if not I guess I can send it back to spyderco, or just figure I knew there was a risk when I bought the knife and take my lumps.
 
Mine was chipping when I bought it; after one sharpening, chipping was gone and it is OK for three month. I cut boxes 2-3 times a week.
R
 
After a thorough sharpening I went back out and did a lot of cuts on the bands that made it chip the first time, along with some cardboard, and everything is well. It dulled a little but still shaves, and under a 10X loupe doesn't show any chipping. Hopefully my luck will continue.
 
I have read a lot of reports on occasional chipping but so far I've been pretty lucky with it. Its an excellent steel but not my favorite. I still prefer BG42 and VG10 over S30V but I do see better edge holding with the S30V. The only steel in any of my knives that begins to keep up with S30V in edge holding is my D2 blades. Both cut very well all the time for me.

STR
 
Update, me and my wife hacked up a lot of cardboard with my Endura 3 and the Native. Sure enough, it chipped out real bad again. I spent a lot of time on the Sharpmaker, but there are still some large, visible chips all along the edge. My E3 propably cut more cardboard, and it, like always, shows no sign of chipping. I'm going to send the knife in to Spyderco, I figure worst case I'll get a sharpening out of it if they don't replace it (which they probably won't). If it still chips I'll have to think about getting another one and taking my chances again. The ergos are just too good for me to give up on the design, and $40 at Walmart isn't bad.
 
You could pick up a Native 3 in VG10 or the SS handled one in AUS10 if you like. I guess I got lucky since the edge on my Native has rolled, not chipped, as I use it.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
I cut heavy cardboard all the time with mine, and I have no problems with chipping. I even accidentally dropped it tip down on concrete and there was no chipping or breakage. I think yours is defective.
Click to expand...

I wish my knives were as good as yours, Rat. I've broken the tips off of two S30V Spyders that I have, one on thin carpet(like what is in hotel hallways.)
 
I really like the Native 3D in VG10 a whole lot better. I have both, and the VG10 is a little thicker and more ergonomic (in my hand), and holds an edge a lot longer.
 
sodak said:
I really like the Native 3D in VG10 a whole lot better. I have both, and the VG10 is a little thicker and more ergonomic (in my hand), and holds an edge a lot longer.
Click to expand...

I like my Endura in VG-10, I think the Native 3 will be my replacement, and my current one goes to the role of beater.
 
Add me to the list of people that have had the Wally World Spyderco Native chip on them. My Native is only 30-days old and has not seen any hard wear and tear. Mostly just cutting twine or carboard. Last night after touching up the blade on the Sharpmaker, I looked at the blade under a 10x loupe. I then said "WTF!"....there were two chips in the blade...one toward the rear of the blade and one at the tip!:mad: I own a large Ritter in S30V and have not had that problem. In comparing the steel quality on the two blades, the Native appears to be much rougher with the grind marks clearly visible. The Ritter on the other hand is very smooth and polished. Both steels are supposed to be CPM S30V, so I wonder why all the chipping with the Natives. Is it due to each manufacturer doing their own heat treatment?
 
Tieva said:
Add me to the list of people that have had the Wally World Spyderco Native chip on them. My Native is only 30-days old and has not seen any hard wear and tear. Mostly just cutting twine or carboard. Last night after touching up the blade on the Sharpmaker, I looked at the blade under a 10x loupe. I then said "WTF!"....there were two chips in the blade...one toward the rear of the blade and one at the tip!:mad: I own a large Ritter in S30V and have not had that problem. In comparing the steel quality on the two blades, the Native appears to be much rougher with the grind marks clearly visible. The Ritter on the other hand is very smooth and polished. Both steels are supposed to be CPM S30V, so I wonder why all the chipping with the Natives. Is it due to each manufacturer doing their own heat treatment?
Click to expand...

Mine has seen very similar use to your's. Mine looks almost like a saw blade with the naked eye. Under a loupe it's really bad. My guess is that these Wally World Natives might not get as much attention in their heat treat as the other higher end S30V's Spyderco makes. My buddy has a Military that has seen some hard use without a hint of chipping. I will check out the pass around Manix Twins closely for chipping when I get them for the pass around. I will re post after I get my Native back from Spyderco, but I bet it will only get a sharpening. My phone call got me the standard "most of the time it's from improper sharpening", but mine has only seen the sharpmaker.
 
I am not a metalurgist, and I don't play one on TV, but I'm wondering if some of the chipping problems could be attributed to the powder-pressed-directly-into-blade technology of the CPM metals.

In other words, is the chipping occurring because the bonding between the particles of the powder is incomplete or not as strong as the molecular bonds of melt-formed metal?

Is there a crucial pressure/heat level that must be reached for full strength bonding to occur between the particles? Is it possible that in those blades which exhibit chipping, that pressure/heat level was not reached?

Anyone know? :confused:
 
Yes it could be a problem, but those conditions are well known as powder metallurgy isn't new and in general such steels get rated higher in terms of strength/durability because that process is superior, not inferior, to traditional ingot forming.

-Cliff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top