another sharpermaker question... 30 or 40?

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philly b

Joined
Dec 24, 2008
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I got a new benchmade, should i only use the 30 degree angle sharpener, or use the 40 then the 30? I lost my dvd

Thanls
 
Use the marker trick and take a couple strokes at 30 degrees and see where the factory edge is at... Use the 30 and then the 40.... My BM 14205 came at a factory 30 degree edge... Some come around 40... If thats the case.. you dont need to use the 30 yet... unless you want to thin the edge.. your call..
Matt
 
trimcut123 said:
Use the marker trick and take a couple strokes at 30 degrees and see where the factory edge is at... Use the 30 and then the 40.... My BM 14205 came at a factory 30 degree edge... Some come around 40... If thats the case.. you dont need to use the 30 yet... unless you want to thin the edge.. your call..
Matt
Click to expand...

can you please elaborate a little bit more, what should i be looking for when i do this exactly?
 
You tube is your friend then.........
As far as the marker trick..... use a permanent marker and mark the sharpened edge on both sides... After you take a few swipes on each side at 30 degrees.. you will be able to see if that angle is too steep or not........
 
Honestly, while a lot of folks use thinner angles I've found that the 40-degree is more than good enough for my purposes.
 
I'd say bring it to 30 degrees and try it out. If you experience edge damage (you shouldn't), take it back to 40. You might as well get all the performance you can out of it.
 
Sharpen the bevels at 30, then add a final edge by using very light strokes on the fine (white) ceramic rods in the 40 degree slots until its uniformly sharp.
 
Any good steel I like 30 but if the edge is 40 it will take some work to reprofile to 30.
 
If you have never witnessed the screaming performance of really thin edges, and you have a coarse benchstone or DMT, sharpen a primary angle to something like 22 or 24 degrees, inclusive. Then use the Sharpmaker to lightly put on a 30 degree inclusive backbevel. You'll be amazed at how the edge slices effortlessly, and how easily and quickly you can restore that edge.

You don't even have to refine the coarse primary edge, the Sharpmaker will do that for you at the very edge of the secondary bevel. The primary bevels don't even have to be exactly even, since the Sharpmaker will insure the secondary bevels are exactly as they should be. I did this with my 940 and was amazed at the difference.
 
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