Another slipjoint critique

So how does one get the same sheen on the pins, without taking the whole handle to 600 grit?

Here's my problem... If I want a grippy feel to the handle I only go to 320.. Pins and all.
I could probably take the washer to 600 with a ton of care, but the small pin would be impossible I think.

Suggestions ?
 
I suppose you could take everything to 320 and then finish the pivot (carefully) with a cratex rod or a dowel with some lapping compound. The smaller pins would be more difficult.

That said (and this is just personal preference speaking once again), I'd prefer a slightly less grippy handle with a more polished pin than otherwise. It may be just my opinion, but I think a little bit of polish overall is just one of the many features that gives it that "custom" look and feel to it, and not just another store bought piece. I really don't think you'd be sacrificing much in terms of overall function or "grippyness" either.
 
Yeah, I recommend trying the micarta up to 800 grit or so, and feeling it for yourself. I think you'll find it's still very grippy. Worst case, you can always step back down to a courser grit if you don't like it. I understand what you're going for, but I think you'll find you're over complicating it.

I know some guys sand blast micarta or g10 to get higher grip, but most of those guys use screws/bolts/etc afaik.



On the other hand, this is another area where domed pins excel, not only do they give a better mechanical fastening (especially in peel, which is where adhesives usually have significantly lower strength than sheer, and subsequently fail), but they also allow you to finish them separately, however you want. After peening the pin, you simply punch a hole the size of your pin in some blue painters tape, put the tape over the handle leaving the pin exposed through the hole, tape up the surrounding areas, and then buff in every direction. Depending on the material, use different compound or buffs, but a sisal or reinforced cotton buff with green chrome will handle most harder metals. For silver and other precious metals you can usually just use white rogue and a loose buff. Takes about 10 seconds and you've got beautiful, strong, independently polished pins. If you don't like them buffed, you can then rub them with grey scotch brite or 0000 steel wool to give a matte finish.


As far as ground flush pins finishing separately, I can think of a couple of pain in the butt ways to do it, but they'll be difficult to get consistency and not leave a ring around them in the handle material. As Andrew mentioned, using a cratex wheel is likely the best bet.

If you wanted to use flush ground pins and blast the handle material for a really grippy finish, I'd finish the handle, mask the pins (with a small dot) fittings, everything, with electrical tape. It'll resist a brief, direct attach by course grit blasting media, but it's a big pain to get everything sealed up correctly. If you dont, trust me, the media will scratch up everything and mess up all sorts of things. If you're pinned together, the last thing you want is to get a piece of blasting grit in the action of a slipjoint.


FWIW, here's a photo of a knife i made using this technique, except I blasted the fittings, not the handle material to give it texture and grip. I think it's pretty cool, but it took a lot of time to get it all setup properly, as blasting was the second to last thing after the knife was pinned together and finished, except for anodizing the titanium:

blue-slip.jpg
 
Wow very nice slippy...
Gonna try to sand them down a bit more...
At least to 600 like I do the blade and try the cratex wheel on the washer...
Again thanks for the help
The difference was bugging me a bit and didn't really know how to approach it.
 
Yeah, I recommend trying the micarta up to 800 grit or so, and feeling it for yourself. I think you'll find it's still very grippy. Worst case, you can always step back down to a courser grit if you don't like it. I understand what you're going for, but I think you'll find you're over complicating it.

I know some guys sand blast micarta or g10 to get higher grip, but most of those guys use screws/bolts/etc afaik.



On the other hand, this is another area where domed pins excel, not only do they give a better mechanical fastening (especially in peel, which is where adhesives usually have significantly lower strength than sheer, and subsequently fail), but they also allow you to finish them separately, however you want. After peening the pin, you simply punch a hole the size of your pin in some blue painters tape, put the tape over the handle leaving the pin exposed through the hole, tape up the surrounding areas, and then buff in every direction. Depending on the material, use different compound or buffs, but a sisal or reinforced cotton buff with green chrome will handle most harder metals. For silver and other precious metals you can usually just use white rogue and a loose buff. Takes about 10 seconds and you've got beautiful, strong, independently polished pins. If you don't like them buffed, you can then rub them with grey scotch brite or 0000 steel wool to give a matte finish.


As far as ground flush pins finishing separately, I can think of a couple of pain in the butt ways to do it, but they'll be difficult to get consistency and not leave a ring around them in the handle material. As Andrew mentioned, using a cratex wheel is likely the best bet.

If you wanted to use flush ground pins and blast the handle material for a really grippy finish, I'd finish the handle, mask the pins (with a small dot) fittings, everything, with electrical tape. It'll resist a brief, direct attach by course grit blasting media, but it's a big pain to get everything sealed up correctly. If you dont, trust me, the media will scratch up everything and mess up all sorts of things. If you're pinned together, the last thing you want is to get a piece of blasting grit in the action of a slipjoint.


FWIW, here's a photo of a knife i made using this technique, except I blasted the fittings, not the handle material to give it texture and grip. I think it's pretty cool, but it took a lot of time to get it all setup properly, as blasting was the second to last thing after the knife was pinned together and finished, except for anodizing the titanium:

blue-slip.jpg

Nice work!
I too thought about recommending a bead blast. I imagine it could look good even just blasting the pivot and pins as well, but like you say, it is a significant amount of extra work and care to keep from blasting where you don't want to, and then of course there's the issue of the stray grit getting into every conceivable space. At the end of the day, just wet sanding to 400, or even 600 grit will yield quite a nice satin finish, and I believe the grip will still be satisfactory.
 
My pleasure, the fact that your enthusiasm shows swift results, is refreshing.


FWIW, making these will teach you (I'm sure it already has) to do lots of testing with scrap, etc, and that it's usually faster to remake something than to chase a mistake for hours. That knife above has a long story, the short version is, it had 3 sets of liners, 2 blades, and 2 sets of ivory before it was finished. If anybody is interested to know how that ordeal came about, I'll be happy to share the long version.
 
Lol
I do most of my knives in plastic styrene first...
Scales, jigs, blades, etc.
I use to build scale models from scratch out of styrene, so I still have tons of it.

But even then I still have mistakes in metal and plenty of them.
 
....so do i! Plenty of mistakes, last time i scrapped one liner due to bad location of center punch for the back hole (i really need to make me some transfer punches!!).
I'm still using a piece of square pipe for upside-down drilling of scale materials, but i need to figure out a better jig for this operation.
So, Javand, Taximanny and others, if you will share your troubleshooting i'll be definitely all ears :)
 
Taximanny, if you didn't know already, on the ABS forum (folding knives subforum) there is going on a slipjoint thread started by Craig Brewer!!! Very interesting indeed.
 
Ha !
Found it...
I'm actually working on a project now very close to his.


It's always interesting to see how others do it.
Thanks
 
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