Another two man saw question

quint

quint

Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
1,396
So I picked up 4 6' two man crosscut (think thats what they are) old saw blades for $60. I have some projects that I could use the thinner steel for if I can figure out how to work it. Plus for that price it would be a good idea to help with the learning process.

My assumption is that it is probably a 10XX steel from reading the old post or possibly L6 or the various similar versions to L6 like the 8670 or whatever its called. Which brings me to the first question how much does metal analyzing cost and does anybody have a good source to send in some samples? I cut a few pieces off of one with the angle grinder then took a file to them and they are pretty darn tough. The file pretty much just slides off and it takes some effort to get any cut with it, not sure how good that is but seems like a decent heat treat but there in lies the problem with working the steel.

Second is how do you anneal these guys with out warping the metal. I am working on my forge (homemade propane tank guy) so I can anneal them and then hopefully HT them if they are a form of 10XX steel or similar.

Would like your suggestions or know how from working with these guys on how best to utilize this steel. Thanks all.
 
Probably not the answer your looking for, but what I would do is hang the saws up as wall decoration (I'm into that sort of thing), and just buy some known steel in bar stock.
 
Ive got some steel in bar stock and am well aware of the benefits of using known steels and all that stuff. Still its been done before and I am sure I am not the last one who will do it. This was cheap relatively speaking, has potential to make some good blades for certain applications, and if I screw it up well hey once again its cheap.
 
I've made a few blades from a 2 man cross cut saw. I treated it just like simple spring steel and it worked out fine. I took a 4" abrasive wheel on an angle grinder and cut the blade up in pieces that would fit in my oven. Brought them up to around 1200 degrees and let them cool off in the oven.

I'm assuming your going to be grinding the blades. When it comes time to grind the bevels I wouldn't start with anything coarser than 80 grit.
 
Gotcha thanks Raymond. Pardon my inexperience but when you refer to spring steel I am not exactly sure what that is as far as steels go, is it like 10XX series steel or similar. I know the term and what not, just not when it comes to specifics.
 
quint said:
Gotcha thanks Raymond. Pardon my inexperience but when you refer to spring steel I am not exactly sure what that is as far as steels go, is it like 10XX series steel or similar. I know the term and what not, just not when it comes to specifics.
Click to expand...

10 series is correct.
 
I agree with Raymond. It really won't matter what the steel is exactly....just treat it like a 10XX steel. Anneal at 1200F ( just below non-magnetic) three times. Harden at 1450-1500F ( 100-150F above non-magnetic). Temper at 400-450F twice for 2 hours each time.

That said, the two-man saw is a far better shop wall decoration than a source of blade material. $60 will buy a lot of blade steel. Lets say that after all the work of cutting it up, you get two 48" by 2" bars of unknown thin steel. Aldo sells those for $25 a bar in 5/32X48X2" 1095. Ready to make knives from with HT info provided. So, even with shipping, it would run the same price for better steel.
 
quint,
There are two members here that use a good amount of these saws. You could contact them and they might help as well. Alan Davis Knives and David Farmer, they sell in the exchange quite a bit. I have used them as well and they make great slicers. Good luck.
Daniel Combs
DanCo
 
Thanks Dan Ill be sure to contact those guys.

Thanks again Stacy for the info. Ive got some 1084 right now and would like to venture into 1095 once I get my forge going and learn how to control it enough to get into HT 1095 and maybe a couple of the other steels. I will actually get about 4 sections of roughly 48x3 to 4" so not a super great deal but it isnt too bad. The extra work will come with the clean up of the metal and what not which may negate the price. I totally agree in most cases the easiest way to go is with ordering steel from Aldo or AKS.


As far as metallurgy testers go does anyone have any recommendations by chance. Depending on the price I would be kind of interested to get the steel analyzed just for my own curiosity.
 
quint said:
Thanks Dan Ill be sure to contact those guys.

Thanks again Stacy for the info. Ive got some 1084 right now and would like to venture into 1095 once I get my forge going and learn how to control it enough to get into HT 1095 and maybe a couple of the other steels. I will actually get about 4 sections of roughly 48x3 to 4" so not a super great deal but it isnt too bad. The extra work will come with the clean up of the metal and what not which may negate the price. I totally agree in most cases the easiest way to go is with ordering steel from Aldo or AKS.


As far as metallurgy testers go does anyone have any recommendations by chance. Depending on the price I would be kind of interested to get the steel analyzed just for my own curiosity.
Click to expand...

By memory, someone mentioned Fastenal and $50, but that could be BS
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top