Another "Well Duh" revelation in the shop

Hankins

Hankins

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Dec 7, 2008
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Another "Well Duh" revelation in the shop
After marking raw steel for years using a Fine marker and then roughing out the profile an AhAA moment
Cleaned the steel masked it with quality tape and drew the profile on that. Leave it in place and you have less sctraches to deal with on the other side
Also if your a Neanderthal like me who Stamps their makers mark you will have fewer marks on the back of the blade to remove
 

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eh eh :)
i agree and follow your breakthrough, the nastier gouges i have to sand out are the ones back from profiling and drilling on the drill press table.
 
Similarly, I have taken to hand-sanding one side of a finished blade all the way up to the final grit and then taping it over before flipping it and working on the other side.
 
Hankins said:
Another "Well Duh" revelation in the shop
After marking raw steel for years using a Fine marker and then roughing out the profile an AhAA moment
Cleaned the steel masked it with quality tape and drew the profile on that. Leave it in place and you have less sctraches to deal with on the other side
Also if your a Neanderthal like me who Stamps their makers mark you will have fewer marks on the back of the blade to remove
Click to expand...

Good tip, makes it much easier to see as well!
 
Triought
Thats the point. Mark on even a clean sanded metal surface and see how easy it is to wipe off!
So far the Frog tape is holding up to most of the heat from profile grinding. certainly gets allot closer to the lines without having to redraw them
 
Hankins said:
Triought
Thats the point. Mark on even a clean sanded metal surface and see how easy it is to wipe off!
So far the Frog tape is holding up to most of the heat from profile grinding. certainly gets allot closer to the lines without having to redraw them
Click to expand...

Ahh, I read it as it helped with the scrapes and scratches that have to be sanded out. I tried a soapstone last night and didn't like the results, I have some frogtape that is a bit thinner but I could just use multiple lines of it I'm going to try. Thanks for the tip.
 
I've been using high temp white paint. Can draw on it or spray it like a stencil around a paper cutout that I can use over and over. The more paint coats the stencil gets the sturdier it is lol.
Also I don't wait for it to dry and all that jazz. A lil grinding heat speeds that up. There are probably some unhealthy fumes but I work outdoors and have a respirator on.
 
james terrio said:
Similarly, I have taken to hand-sanding one side of a finished blade all the way up to the final grit and then taping it over before flipping it and working on the other side.
Click to expand...

oh yes, all the way up, mask, flip.
Besides, the fewer times you move your tooling (sandpaper, clamped blade, whatever) the less time you waste.
 
oic0 said:
Lowes I think but mighta been an auto parts store. Been using the same can a long time. Think it's for engines and grills.
Click to expand...

Is it the Krylon High Heat and Radiator paint? I used some paint from the hardware store (Do It Best) that had some high heat grill paint for grills and stuff.
 
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