Anti-Scale DIY

O

otpowell

Joined
Jun 26, 2013
Messages
39
I recent read that if you bring the blade up to 600 degrees and dip it in roach killer boric acid, that will melt to the blade and form a anti-scale compound. Anyone tried this? Does it work good?
 
Turco, which was a popular blade coating a while back, seems to be a lacquer base mixed with yellow ochre and boric acid/borax ( maybe some gum tragacanth tossed in the mix, too). You must keep the blade below 1600F or the boric acid will start to eat into the steel.
 
bladsmth said:
Turco, which was a popular blade coating a while back, seems to be a lacquer base mixed with yellow ochre and boric acid/borax ( maybe some gum tragacanth tossed in the mix, too). You must keep the blade below 1600F or the boric acid will start to eat into the steel.
Click to expand...

Well I have a propane forge.. I don't have a temp gauge.. Any idea how hot it gets in order to acheive non-magnetic on O1? Maybe I should just buy some anti-scale compound that isn't as temp sensitive.
 
First off, you want more heat than simply non-magnetic for any hardening process. Non-magnetic is 1414° for all iron/steel. You need a minimum of 1450° and ideally 1475°. A shade of red above non-magnetic will be close enough, but 01 is not at it's best without a controlled heat soak at that temp for 15/20 minutes. ATP-641 is very good decarb protection up to maybe 1600°. One jar of this stuff will go a long way.
 
LRB said:
First off, you want more heat than simply non-magnetic for any hardening process. Non-magnetic is 1414° for all iron/steel. You need a minimum of 1450° and ideally 1475°. A shade of red above non-magnetic will be close enough, but 01 is not at it's best without a controlled heat soak at that temp for 15/20 minutes. ATP-641 is very good decarb protection up to maybe 1600°. One jar of this stuff will go a long way.
Click to expand...

Thanks LRB, I'm an amature. Thanks for the info. Is there a temp gauge that I can buy that goes up past 1600? I looked at those laser ones at the automotive shop but they usually only go up to about 800.
 
Well that's interesting...blacksmiths use a variety of things for welding flux, and most of them melt at a dull to cherry red. I can see how boric acid might be too aggressive and lead to pitting at common HT temps, but this makes me want to try 20 mule team or type S/N lime for a light protective coating.
Anyone tried these?
 
I've had great results with ATP 641 anti scale compound from Brownells. Not DIY, but for about $15.00 it lasts me at least a couple of years. I warm the blade slightly with a torch, brush it on and let it dry or even put it into the oven wet. Works great, and then flakes off in the quench. I've used it on O1 and 1095.

Dick
 
Last edited:
rasret01 said:
I've had great results with ATP 641 anti scale compound from Brownells. Not DIY, but for about $15.00 it lasts me at least a couple of years. I warm the blade slightly with a torch, brush it on and let it dry or even put it into the oven wet. Works great, and then flakes off in the quench. I've used it on O1 and 1095.

Dick
Click to expand...

Thanks ras. I think brownells sells it .. I'll have to get some.
 
For those of you using ATP 641, did your compound arrive in a nearly solid state? I ordered two jars and both are as viscous as modeling clay. If this is the norm, how thick/ thin do you mix your ATP before use?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top