Antique Finish on Trade Knife Blades

I assume the file has to be on the Internet somewhere, is that correct? I can't just embed into the post that I can figure out.
 
I use photobucket.com
Just copy and past the bottom link under each image.....Hint Hint Kim!!
 
When I was in Boonesborough KY last year ( a re-creation of Daniel Boone's fort) they had a knifemaker doing old time knives. He told me he boiled his carbon steel blades in clorox to get a old look. I have not tried this and would think that the fumes from boiling clorox would be very poisonous. Be careful if you try it.
 
DaleNAbq said:
I assume the file has to be on the Internet somewhere, is that correct? I can't just embed into the post that I can figure out.
Click to expand...
That knife and sheath look quite nice. As Fitzo points out; Yahoo doesn't allow hot linking. Try http://tinypic.com/ ; it's a free hosting site. They will supply the correct code or you can copy the url and use the "insert image" button here (it's the one that looks like a post card) to place your image in the text.
Regards,
Greg
 
Good topic.
I just use Ferric Chloride and a scotchbrite pad as many times as I feel it looks right, but will try some of the methods described here soon just to see the difference.
 
Another way, and a way to kill two birds with one stone, is to leave your knife in its WET leather sheath overnight (water fitting the sheath), then finish with 4/0 steel wool...learned this by accident a few years back :rolleyes:
 
let the knife get all rusty, then polish off the rust. this is one really good method, like said above. i leaves black, pits all over the blade, and really looks nice on trade knives. a really cool way to do this is to let the blade rust, then get the rust off with naval jelly, it leaves a steel gray, and blue/black color from the pits. if you sand or use steel wool on the blade after it rusts, it looks too shiny and the rust etching looks intentional. thats why i like the naval jelly way. some browning solution would look cool too!
 
What about the file work on the back of the blade--was it just on the thumb side or on both sides? If on both sides were the notches aligned to make thin spots in the spine or were they offset so as to make an "s" curve when viewed from the top of the spine?
 
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