Antler handle for my buddy

M

Maelstrom78

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Sep 21, 2013
Messages
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A good friend found a decent sized whitetail shed. It was a bit gnawed up at the tines but the base was still intact. It was too thick for a hidden tang unless you had giant mitts.

I did get a couple of scales from it but they are a bit short. So for the front of the scales I could just have an extended black paper micarta bolsters with stainless or black phenolic rod pins or something. Maybe add a colored spacer in between the antler and the bolster.

I have black canvas, paper and linen micarta, red linen micarta, brown canvas micarta and a small horde of stabilized burl woods ( but those are mine! all mine!!!) as well as 416 stainless and brass for bolsters as well. I have quite a few colors of G10 for in liner sizes approx .030 or so.

The picture looks like the scale is blue for some reason but it's really just regular antler color.

2dhy4wi.jpg


Suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Hmm I guess the design decisions are up to me as far as materials!

How about the butt of the scales? I kind of like the sort of single shot revolver grip profile.
 
Last edited:
Maelstrom78 said:
Hmm I guess the design decisions are up to me as far as materials!

How about the butt of the scales? I kind of like the sort of single shot revolver grip profile.
Click to expand...

This is purely suggestion. And its still 100% up to you. But I think it would be cool if you did the "revolver" grip for the bottom. But did a brass guard with some black and maybe red g10 spacers.
 
It looks like a handle that is short and perhaps too big around. You can easily add a piece of wood in the front if you need to.
Frank
 
Do you think black paper micarta with stainless pins would look nice? I do have some stabilized wood as well.
 
Change the blade to a hidden tang. Complete the blade and HT, finishing it entirely except final sharpening. Tape up the blade leaving only the tang and shoulders exposed.

Glue on to the antler piece any wood/Micarta/leather/spacer/etc. you want. It can be a single block or a stack. If you make a stack, assemble the stack separately, then grind it roughly to shape ( leave some to remove later) and glue onto the antler as a unit. Use good grade 1 hour or longer set epoxy. Grind the bolster additions down to the antler and shape the antler as needed to make a smooth transition. It is OK to grind away part of the antler as needed and make smooth places. They polish really well. Once the handle is shaped, sand it to at least 400 grit (1000 grit is better), and buff lightly. Drill it out to fit the tang. Don't be sloppy, but it does not need to be a tight fit. When done, wrap painters tape for 3" along the handle to within 1/4" of the end. This will help keep epoxy off you antler and make clean up simpler. ( stupid as it sounds, I have heard of people rolling a condom over the antler to keep glue from getting all over it in assembly.)

Make an 1/8" thick front piece of metal, wood, or Micarta that fits the tang snug ( like a guard would....I like to use ebony). It should be a bit larger than the handle end. Slip on the thin tight fitting piece. Put some epoxy on the tang as you slip it on to make a good seal. Fill the handle hole with more of the 1 hour set epoxy, and assemble the handle. Clamp or brace it so the handle is sitting tight against the front plate, the front plate is tight against the blade shoulders, and the blade and handle are aligned straight. Wipe off any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol, and check closely for any gaps or misalignments. Check every 10 minutes to make sure nothing has moved, then let sit overnight. Clean up any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol or acetone, then grind/file/sand the front piece smooth with the handle.

Tip: tint the epoxy to match the front piece. I use ebony usually, and dye the epoxy black. This makes a tightly sealed and invisible joint.
 
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