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Anvil recomendations/help???
- Thread starter stefanj
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 23, 1999
- Messages
- 1,409
I personally think that the minimum weight for Bladesmithing is 125 lbs. You can expect to pay about $4-$5 per pound for a good used anvil, $3 per pound if your lucky. The up side is that if you spend the money to get a good one now, and take care of it, you'll never have to purchase another. If you try to go on the cheap and get a sub-standard anvil, your going to be spending much more in the long run.
I like the old anvils, with my favorite brands being Trenton and Kolishwa. My main shop anvil is a 300lb Trenton. I also have a 250lb Trenton, and a 125lb Kolishwa that sits beside the heat treating bench.
I can't remember who they are, but there was an individual at the Blade show selling anvils. He runs a farrier supply somewhere in the south. I've worked on a couple of his anvils and found them to be very good. Maybe someone can chime in with who it is, or if I find the info I'll post it here.
I like the old anvils, with my favorite brands being Trenton and Kolishwa. My main shop anvil is a 300lb Trenton. I also have a 250lb Trenton, and a 125lb Kolishwa that sits beside the heat treating bench.
I can't remember who they are, but there was an individual at the Blade show selling anvils. He runs a farrier supply somewhere in the south. I've worked on a couple of his anvils and found them to be very good. Maybe someone can chime in with who it is, or if I find the info I'll post it here.
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2006
- Messages
- 1,652
About the minimum for a decent bladesmithing anvil i'd say would be a 75lb toolsteel cuttof on a heafty base.
This is a 4140 cutoff (courtesy of T Blade here on the boards) which I bought for my brother, but he has only used a couple times because he /still/ hasnt moved into my spare bedroom with me like he said he was going to 6 months ago. It's great for blade work, and I've even contemplated a few designs where I can tip the whole anvil on it's side to use one of hte curved faces for drawing.
If you're going to buy a real anvil, 125lbs or so is the minimum you'll want. It's 'portable' but wont hop around on you when you're using it. I started with a 125lb peter wright anvil, which I recently sold after I upgraded to a 150lb peter wright in my shop. The 150 doesnt actually have quite as flat a face as my old one, so I find myself going over to my 4140 anvil to true up straight lines for blades, but its' great for everything else I do.
A decent used anvil can usualy be found for around 2$ per pound if you're patient, but dont be afraid to pay more for a good quality anvil. A good quality anvil is something which your kids and your grandkids can inherit and keep using just as well as you'll be using it today.
This is a 4140 cutoff (courtesy of T Blade here on the boards) which I bought for my brother, but he has only used a couple times because he /still/ hasnt moved into my spare bedroom with me like he said he was going to 6 months ago. It's great for blade work, and I've even contemplated a few designs where I can tip the whole anvil on it's side to use one of hte curved faces for drawing.
If you're going to buy a real anvil, 125lbs or so is the minimum you'll want. It's 'portable' but wont hop around on you when you're using it. I started with a 125lb peter wright anvil, which I recently sold after I upgraded to a 150lb peter wright in my shop. The 150 doesnt actually have quite as flat a face as my old one, so I find myself going over to my 4140 anvil to true up straight lines for blades, but its' great for everything else I do.
A decent used anvil can usualy be found for around 2$ per pound if you're patient, but dont be afraid to pay more for a good quality anvil. A good quality anvil is something which your kids and your grandkids can inherit and keep using just as well as you'll be using it today.
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2000
- Messages
- 1,146
Maybe these are the folks Ed was thinking about
Kayne and Son...Blacksmiths Depot
http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
The largest anvil I use is a cutlers stiddy or anvil so I can't recommend one the size you need but I have done business with Kayne and Son and they have been good folks to work with....
They have all sorts of neat hammers for Smiths and all sorts of sizes of them.
Kayne and Son...Blacksmiths Depot
http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
The largest anvil I use is a cutlers stiddy or anvil so I can't recommend one the size you need but I have done business with Kayne and Son and they have been good folks to work with....
They have all sorts of neat hammers for Smiths and all sorts of sizes of them.
I don't have near the experience that John and Ed have in forging blades, but I did go through the process of setting up a forge at my shop just a few years ago. I started out looking for an anvil around 140 to 170 pounds, because that was the most I wanted to haul to hammer-ins. If it was going to be a shop anvil I would have gotten something much bigger if I could. The used anvils I found weren't worth hauling home. Others have been lucky and found very nice old anvils in great shape. When I tapped the ones I found with a hammer they were just dead, no bounce at all. I ended up getting a Vaughn 147 lb anvil from Centaur Forge (http://www.centaurforge.com) that was recommended to me by a friend and I could not be happier. It will bounce a ball bearing almost back up to your hand and is very easy to work with. My brother got a 160 lb Peddinghaus anvil from Kayne and Son (http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/). It is one of the few anvils that are still made from forgings and not cast I have been told. It is a better quality anvil than my Vaughn, but for the money I would go with the Vaughn again in a second and never look back. I have dealt with both of the companies mentioned and they were great. I would also agree with Ed that if you buy an anvil that is of low quality or poor condition, you will not be satisfied. I have watched people use anvils that, to me, were dead and they have to work twice as hard to do the same amount of work. I do think that if you buy a good anvil and want to go to a bigger one later, the little(mine is 147lb and that is not big at all) one will always come in handy around the shop. If you decide to upgrade at a later date, a good anvil might be easier to get rid of than a poor one. Just my two cents worth.
I can vouch for Harry's Vaughn anvil. He let me knock some of the newness out of it once we got it stump broke. Very decent anvil. Charlie wouldn't let me have a go at his (probably still got the packing grease on it), sure was purty though!
I have two Haye-Buddens, a 120 for traveling and a 260 set semi-permanent at the forge. While the 120 is sound and works great, the "fat lady" can really produce. The extra mass will amaze you once she gets working hot. Got the 120 for 2Cs and the 260 for 2.5Cs, you just have to be diligent in your search and always have an "anvil stash" in your boot. I like the old ones 'cause they already know how to dance.
As mentioned above, you can wear yourself out on a bad anvil. Like any tool, get the best you can afford.
I have two Haye-Buddens, a 120 for traveling and a 260 set semi-permanent at the forge. While the 120 is sound and works great, the "fat lady" can really produce. The extra mass will amaze you once she gets working hot. Got the 120 for 2Cs and the 260 for 2.5Cs, you just have to be diligent in your search and always have an "anvil stash" in your boot. I like the old ones 'cause they already know how to dance.
As mentioned above, you can wear yourself out on a bad anvil. Like any tool, get the best you can afford.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Never miss an opportunity to show off my Gladiator 
At 450# it's overkill for just knifework... but it's one hell of an anvil, and all of Nimba's anvils are great. They make a 120 lb. model that is fantastic.
At 450# it's overkill for just knifework... but it's one hell of an anvil, and all of Nimba's anvils are great. They make a 120 lb. model that is fantastic.
- Joined
- Jul 23, 1999
- Messages
- 1,409
Yea, I think that top one is a "vanity" shot! 
And look! He's using the wrong hand to hammer with!
I've seen those photos before, and when I did, I got a case of "Anvil envy".....come to think if it, I still do have "Anvil envy"! Just remember Nick, it ain't overkill if you got it!!
And look! He's using the wrong hand to hammer with! I've seen those photos before, and when I did, I got a case of "Anvil envy".....come to think if it, I still do have "Anvil envy"! Just remember Nick, it ain't overkill if you got it!!
Weight and cost are my concern.
Weight because I'm in the military and move about every 2 1/2 years so I don't have a fixed shop. Cost because my wife just spent 36k on a new car. I get to go to Iraq and she gets to have a new car
, but then I did miss the second ones birth and she had them both for the year so I guess it evens out?
I'm looking for a starter anvil which is decent. Something that might require a little more muscle won't hurt me but I don't want to get something which is a total piece of junk!
By the way I have all the links you guys gave me saved and have been looking!! I appreciate the help!
Thank you,
Stefan
Weight because I'm in the military and move about every 2 1/2 years so I don't have a fixed shop. Cost because my wife just spent 36k on a new car. I get to go to Iraq and she gets to have a new car
, but then I did miss the second ones birth and she had them both for the year so I guess it evens out?I'm looking for a starter anvil which is decent. Something that might require a little more muscle won't hurt me but I don't want to get something which is a total piece of junk!
By the way I have all the links you guys gave me saved and have been looking!! I appreciate the help!
Thank you,
Stefan
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Oops Stefan, I forgot to post the link!!!
http://www.nimbaanvils.com/
In a perfect world I would have my Gladiator and Ed's giant Trenton. About the ONLY thing I would change about my Nimba anvil is I would like it to have a little bit of a shelf. It is a completely flush/smooth transition from anvil face to horn without any shelf. I use a shelf to roll up jelly-rolls (thanks Mr. Caffrey!
).
The working face is huge, the body is very, very stout with all of the mass under your work, and with the entire thing hardened, you can use the horn to really draw out quickly.
Oh, and Ed, if it was a vanity shot, I would have been forging STAINLESS!!!
http://www.nimbaanvils.com/
In a perfect world I would have my Gladiator and Ed's giant Trenton. About the ONLY thing I would change about my Nimba anvil is I would like it to have a little bit of a shelf. It is a completely flush/smooth transition from anvil face to horn without any shelf. I use a shelf to roll up jelly-rolls (thanks Mr. Caffrey!
).The working face is huge, the body is very, very stout with all of the mass under your work, and with the entire thing hardened, you can use the horn to really draw out quickly.
Oh, and Ed, if it was a vanity shot, I would have been forging STAINLESS!!!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
This is just an interesting side-note (IMHO)
I had been perusing ebay for blacksmith photos and came across this post-card from 1919.
Does that smith's anvil look familiar!?!? 
I had been perusing ebay for blacksmith photos and came across this post-card from 1919.
Does that smith's anvil look familiar!?!?
- Joined
- May 23, 2006
- Messages
- 122
You might want to take a look at Farrier Anvils?
Buy the end of a long day, having to move an anvil , travel ability is important. This is an NC Forge 'Big Face' @ 70# it travels moves easely even on it's stump. 70 pounds is enough to cold-forge 1" round stock.
A con to give a think to, with a smaller anvils is there sound, big anvils ring better, smaller anvils have more of disturbing clang.
Buy the end of a long day, having to move an anvil , travel ability is important. This is an NC Forge 'Big Face' @ 70# it travels moves easely even on it's stump. 70 pounds is enough to cold-forge 1" round stock.
A con to give a think to, with a smaller anvils is there sound, big anvils ring better, smaller anvils have more of disturbing clang.
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 2,525
Here is a shot of the anvil I purchased this year from Old World Anvils.
This one weighs 260 pounds, but they have other models to choose from. Very good service with fast shipping from those folks.
By the way, even though I am also forging left handed, I decided not to forge sleeveless in this photo. I didn't want to make Nicki look bad.
This one weighs 260 pounds, but they have other models to choose from. Very good service with fast shipping from those folks.
By the way, even though I am also forging left handed, I decided not to forge sleeveless in this photo. I didn't want to make Nicki look bad.
- Joined
- May 23, 2006
- Messages
- 122
Stefan J
Thinking I speak for all of us here, Thanks for your service!:thumbup::thumbup:
About the anvil, check junk yards for chunks of solid steel. You will know it when you see it , if there is a usable makeshift anvil. We could bet that the first anvil was just a bigger rock then the rock that they pounded with.
Thanks again for your service!
Thinking I speak for all of us here, Thanks for your service!:thumbup::thumbup:
About the anvil, check junk yards for chunks of solid steel. You will know it when you see it , if there is a usable makeshift anvil. We could bet that the first anvil was just a bigger rock then the rock that they pounded with.
Thanks again for your service!
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 5,846
so many lefties! makes me glad to be sinister.
Out of curiosity, since I'm still on a budget that's tight as 2 kids and a full time student wife can be (but yeah, when she's done, she'll be a nurse and buy me a bader, right?)- I'm thinking of trying welding a RR tie plate (after shaping) onto one of the HF anvil shaped objects. Anyone think that would work?
Out of curiosity, since I'm still on a budget that's tight as 2 kids and a full time student wife can be (but yeah, when she's done, she'll be a nurse and buy me a bader, right?)- I'm thinking of trying welding a RR tie plate (after shaping) onto one of the HF anvil shaped objects. Anyone think that would work?
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2006
- Messages
- 3,816
Chris,
Make a couple of knives and take a ride in the country. You are not too far from some horse ranches down there. Ride around and look out in the yards by the barns. THere are often old anvils laying around. Stop in and ask if they might be interested in parting with it. They may even take a knife in trade.
Chuck
Make a couple of knives and take a ride in the country. You are not too far from some horse ranches down there. Ride around and look out in the yards by the barns. THere are often old anvils laying around. Stop in and ask if they might be interested in parting with it. They may even take a knife in trade.
Chuck