anvil weight

P

pike3e

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Sep 28, 2008
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Any guess what an anvil would weight that is 28 inches long, 11 inches tall and four and a half inches wide?


Thanks

John
 
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I found a different calculator that says 393 lbs. The first one I used listed molybdenum weight, not moly-steel, which is what I was thinkin'.
-Mark
 
Polish Avenger: Are you looking up for the volume of that size? Anvils are shaped differently than big metal blocks, so it would have different results.
 
Mike, you're absolutely right. I assumed that the measurements given were for an anvil-shaped-object, not a proper anvil.
-Mark
 
Considering your not Nick Wheeler and can deadlift a Toyota, becareful and pick it up and set it on a home scale. they usually read up to 300 pounds. It sounds like maybe it's about like mine 150-200 lbs I've a 1860-1900 Peter Wright 11 stone weight anvil which equates to about 150 pounds and it's very close to those diminsions.

Jason
 
I would say it has got to be close to the 200# mark, My peter wrght is 20 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide and it is 125# so I know it bigger than mine.
Del
 
here is a pic

2906296200903121414451.jpg


What would be a good price, person is asking 250. not sure of makers mark but he said he thought it was from england
 
John,

Not sure if this will help you much, but my anvil that is the same pattern as the one pictured is 24 and a half long, 10 and a half high, with a face that is 4 and a half wide and it weighs 141 lbs. I'd guess yours is in the 175 lb range. As for the price, it can be a kind of regional thing but for where I live an anvil of that size that is in good shape with good rebound would be a great price at 250.00. But then anvils seem to go for a premium out here. I think there's too many collectors and farriers out here that keep anvils in high demand.

Good luck!
Rick
 
What is the owner of the anvil telling you about it? Why does he/she think it's English? They should be able to tell you a manufacturer if they "think it's English". The reason I say this is that there are anvils made in all corners of the world that look like the one pictured. See if they can give you any more info like some of the others have already asked...
The side of the anvil that is facing us in the picture should more than likely have some sort of markings whether it's a makers mark or weight or country of origin if made after around 1885 (guessing on that date so don't quote me) around that time frame it became necessary to mark items with country of origin if made for export. Have them look at the bottom of the anvil, is it flat? Does it have a depression? If there is a depression is it oval or hourglass shaped? Are there casting seams running under the heel and horn down to the base. Is there a flat step on the feet under the heel and horn? And as already asked are there any number or letters stamped or cast on the feet? All of these questions are clues as to the mfg of the anvil and can affect the value but the most important things are the weight, rebound and condition of the face when deciding if it's going to work for YOUR needs.

See what info you can get. I wouldn't buy another anvil without testing rebound and knowing it's actual weight. I did it once before on ebay and the result was that I thought forging should be left to those crazy enough or looking to build muscles. I seriously wanted to just stick to stock removal. I was lucky enough to stumble into a good deal on a GOOD anvil and now forging is a joy!

Based on its dimensions I think you're alright on weight and price but then again it's only good for an anchor if its dead.
Rick
 
I am not an expert, just was checking out the anvils on e-bay recently. It looks very similar to Hay Budden that was sold recently http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=110362011225
The dimensions you have are half inch longer and half inch higher than that one, so I would guees it will be around 180 lbs. If it is Hay Budden and there is no damage other than rust on the surface then $250 is a great price for it.
 
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Here is a good thing to know about moving and guessing the weight of anvils. If it is too heavy to pick up safely ( or you don't know if you can pick it up safely), take two stout 2X4s or pieces of 1" pipe, about 6 feet long. have two strong people hold them from the ends, like a stretcher, and pick up the anvil (the pipe/studs under the horn and heel). You can get a good idea of the weight, as each person is holding half of it.The weight on each person can be judged by their guess, but as a rule : easy to lift =100-150#; moderately heavy to lift = 150-200#; hard to lift = 200-300#; and bends the pipe/breaks the wood = get a fork lift. This is the safest way to pick up and move an anvil,too. If there is a mishaps, no feet are in the way, and it is much safer for the back.
Picking up an anvil may look manly, but it is an easy way to un-man yourself.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
Here is a good thing to know about moving and guessing the weight of anvils. If it is too heavy to pick up safely ( or you don't know if you can pick it up safely), take two stout 2X4s or pieces of 1" pipe, about 6 feet long. have two strong people hold them from the ends, like a stretcher, and pick up the anvil (the pipe/studs under the horn and heel). You can get a good idea of the weight, as each person is holding half of it.The weight on each person can be judged by their guess, but as a rule : easy to lift =100-150#; moderately heavy to lift = 150-200#; hard to lift = 200-300#; and bends the pipe/breaks the wood = get a fork lift. This is the safest way to pick up and move an anvil,too. If there is a mishaps, no feet are in the way, and it is much safer for the back.
Picking up an anvil may look manly, but it is an easy way to un-man yourself.
Stacy
Click to expand...

...Or just get nick wheeler
 
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