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So Steven, Where is that 130lb chunk of forklift tine go?? Thought you would be pounding on that by now.
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Anvil weight?
- Thread starter rachet197
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Speaking of anvil stumps, I just cut an 18" oak and have about a 12' log left. If there is anyone in the area that would like to come cut a chunk off for a stand PM me. Free just come and cut it.
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Haven't got it set in concrete yet. However, the beveled edge is working surprisingly well as a hot-cut.
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That's great. Use what you got. If you can hot cut with it it will be one tough anvil.
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How does working on a post anvil with a round edge work? In my very
limited forging experience a straight edge or two has been helpful for
things like plunges. Most of the demos I've watched have used the
edges a lot.
limited forging experience a straight edge or two has been helpful for
things like plunges. Most of the demos I've watched have used the
edges a lot.
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As far as the round anvil goes, it seems to be working well. I wouldn't know, but The very small number of things that I have had to do have all been accomplished adequately by it. However, I might pour a concrete base for the big one today. Stay tuned.
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Sweet! Post pictures!
Was your 52100 post anvil triple quenched, triple tempered and popped in the freezer overnight to bring out the magic within?
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No. It did get quenched multiple times when I forgot it in the rain, though .
.I'm more of a woodworker which is why I'm asking more noob questions than contributing 
but to chime in, that oak on offer would make a good base since it's a heavy, dense, stiff wood. Another common one that is similarly good is maple and if you're lucky enough to have hickory around, that'll be right good as well. It's the softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar you should stay away from.
I thought a bit more about my splitting worry and having a blunt (male) bottom of your anvil and a (female) hole in the wood for it should be better, think mortise and tenon. reinforcing the round or stump with metal hoops sould keep it together even if it splits too. I'm going to try it myself as soon as I find a good piece of steel I can use for the anvil part.
PS I looked up "my idea" since it's bound to have been done before, and sure enough "stake anvils" were a tool for traditonal swordmakers.
but to chime in, that oak on offer would make a good base since it's a heavy, dense, stiff wood. Another common one that is similarly good is maple and if you're lucky enough to have hickory around, that'll be right good as well. It's the softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar you should stay away from.I thought a bit more about my splitting worry and having a blunt (male) bottom of your anvil and a (female) hole in the wood for it should be better, think mortise and tenon. reinforcing the round or stump with metal hoops sould keep it together even if it splits too. I'm going to try it myself as soon as I find a good piece of steel I can use for the anvil part.
PS I looked up "my idea" since it's bound to have been done before, and sure enough "stake anvils" were a tool for traditonal swordmakers.
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