Any advantage to wodden handles?

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Oct 22, 2012
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Is there any advantage in wooden handles of identical shape and size as a Fiberglass or otherwise synthetic handle other than aesthetics? I could see customization options being on the list, and availability of so many different patters on wooden handles, but in similar profiles, this would not matter, would it? I have broken wooden axe handles before, but not synthetic ones, which led me to this question.
 
Not in my experience, from axes to shovels, synthetics are stronger and don't rot or require any care.
 
Wood feels better to me. Wood feels warmer in winter. Wood handles can be customized to shape. I broke a fiberglass handle on a splitting maul and it shattered in dozens of sharp splinters, so they are not indestructible. It is not a huge job to replace a wooden handle and they are less expensive. Once your axe skills improve, broken handles are rare.
 
personally i love a wooden handle. feels better in the hand. hard hits dont hurt as much. and they are just cooler.

i won't buy a shovel or axe, or anything in between unless it comes with a wooden handle.
 
I tend to agree on wooden handles being my preference. There is no joy for me in using a tool thats ugly, its just work. If I have to work I want to enjoy what I am doing. Synthetic handles if not well thought out can be uncomfortable in the hand and there is not much you can do to change that. If a wood handle is uncomfortable I modify it to fit.

Chris
 
Only wood for me. Nothing works, looks or feels better. The crazy thing about fiberglass handles is they come with rubber hand grips. Why would anyone want blister creating grips on a handle when 'slip' is required.
 
And...in an extreme circumstance, you can use that wood as a fire statrter...Cheers.
 
Wood feels better in the hand and won't jar you as much while chopping like fiberglass will. However if I were going to use it in a damp environment fiberglass is the way to go
 
Already broke fiberglass handles, I'm used to hate these. Wood rots, yes, but it takes years, and you can easily replace them. I wouldn't want a broken fiberglass handle in the woods, a new wooden one is done in 30 minutes.
 
One that people haven't mentioned yet is that it's obviously more environmentally friendly. Also, I've found that with the few fiberglass handles I've used, jarring seems to be more noticeable - seemed like it transferred a lot more of the shock to my hands. Maybe this also had to do with the fact that the profile of the synthetic handle was so thick (I much prefer slimmed down handles on my axes)
 
I used to swing a sledge for hours every day and will never use a synthetic handle again. You get a huge ringing feeling in your hand with synthetics that I have never felt with a wood handle.
 
From the framers that I have spoken with and folks that swing a sledge, wood absorbs shock better than anything else out there.
The best fiberglass coated in the best rubbers don't work as well as a hickory handle.

These are folks who swing the thing for 8-10 hours a day 5-6 days a week till the job is done.

Sure you may break a handle, but with quality handles it is more likely that you will wear out the face of the hammer.
 
My experience is the same as many above -- synthetics give much greater feedback in striking tools. Won't matter if you're just tapping in a few nails or splitting a few branches for kindling, but you'll definitely feel the difference during extended work. Most woods are also lighter than most synthetics, which can affect balance and slightly add to carrying weight.Climate makes a difference, too. If you take an axe along hunting or trekking in below-freezing temps, a synthetic handle will tolerate less and less stress the colder it gets. It can shatter and splinter. With minimal care, a wood handle can easily outlast your lifetime.
 
Besides what has already been mentioned, you will have more power with a wood handle because it is lighter. Head weight is what you want, not handle weight.
 
I prefer wood handles on most tools. I do keep one axe on a fiberglass handle for underbucking. And I don't mind a fiberglass handle on a shovel - which isn't an impact tool. But like Frank said, forget the rubber.
 
I use my axes when I go outside and wish to get away from things. In my normal day-to-day environment, I'm surrounded by plastic. So when I reach the woods, I prefer natural materials. In addition, all the ladies love wood. It has more character. You never know when you might meet your future wife on the trail. That's why my existing wife wants me to use plastic handles.
 
I much prefer wood over fiberglass. I've broken both and in the case of fiberglass.......replaced it with wood.
 
Pretty much the reason tac hawks are one piece steel. Making a replacement handle shouldn't have to be an option at the price.

What I have and use, the fiberglass reinforced handles work. What I see on my tools is an overmolding of polymer that finishes out the shape of the handle over the core. The result is less weight, and the handles don't seem to ring or cause me any trouble. The overmolded ones are the standard in professional tools around here. Nupla makes a good replacement.

That's a bit different than a fiberglass handle with the layers on the outside, I've seen those broken exposing the hollow core.

One of the major problems with modern wood handles is that they are simply cut out of larger wood stock with a complete indifference to how the grain runs. Like a baseball bat, it makes a difference, plus the open end grain sucks up water and they age much more quickly if left outdoors. In the day, a handle was fashioned by selecting a piece from much smaller stock that had concentric rings to the core. That makes the handle much stronger as you are using it with a grain pattern that complements the work, not cut cross grain leaving a weak spot. It's a lot like wood rifle stocks - check the grain at the wrist, the stockmaker goes to some effort to get it right at it's weakest point in the shape. Mass tool makers don't care. Making a handle out of smaller piece of wood naturally shaped to what was needed seems standard on old tools.

When I do pick out a wood handled tool I spend twice as much time on the handle as the metal. Cosmetic flaws in the steel won't mean a thing after ten minutes of use, but a broken handle after ten minutes is a pain in the keyster. Happened with a brand new brick hammer, I went fiberglass replacement on it and I'll never have to mess with it again. I will beat it into uselessness before I break the handle on it. If you aren't experienced and starting up the learning curve, why buy the cheap wooden handle version just to buy one again?

Wood has it's place in tools and can be long lasting if the maker exercised due diligence in it's making. When you are on the clock with your free time or on the job, tho, a broken tool is a set back.
 
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