Any Emerson Sharpening Experts?

[richstag]

Hey all

I have been having trouble sharpening my Emersons. This has been an ongoing problem for years with these knives, but, until now I have not really cared.

I bought my father a cqc 13 about a year ago. I have sharpened it for him a couple of times and gotten it reasonably sharp. I can not seem to get it extremly sharp though.

I can get it to shave hair but not cut flesh easily? I have tryed the exact diamond stick that the Emerson website shows to use and followed his instructions with little to no success.

I get better results using this:

http://www.knifeart.com/sharpenknife.html

and finishing with this:

http://www.knifeart.com/leatherstrop.html

I can get my other brand knives to a razor sharp edge that sticks for a while.

I have called Emerson to be told to mark the edge with a sharpie.......

I know that I am sharpening this thing to the edge and at the right angle!

So what the hell is the deal?

Thank you in advance.

By the way, Emerson is my favorite folding knife by far.....when they are sharp!

Kevin

 

[biogon]

EKIs are a funny beast.

I found success reprofiling them down a few degrees with a coarse stone, and then keeping them stropped well.

They will get reasonably sharp, but never to the 'scary sharp' calibre of some others.

I think this is partly a result of the high edge angle, the chisel edge, and the thick final edge thickness.

I have gotten the best results using an EdgePro, reprofiling it so the exposed final edge is about 1/8" wide, and then keeping it touched up on the EdgePro and an aggressive strop.

-j

 

[MORIMOTOM]

i use a chef steel or sharpmaker rod freehand. ive also used very fine grit sandpaper on a block.

always finish with leather strop.

 

[richstag]

EKIs are a funny beast.

I found success reprofiling them down a few degrees with a coarse stone, and then keeping them stropped well.

They will get reasonably sharp, but never to the 'scary sharp' calibre of some others.

I think this is partly a result of the high edge angle, the chisel edge, and the thick final edge thickness.

I have gotten the best results using an EdgePro, reprofiling it so the exposed final edge is about 1/8" wide, and then keeping it touched up on the EdgePro and an aggressive strop.

-j

I actually did reprofile my fathers and it is sharper. It just makes me wonder if I am doing or using something wrong.

They come from Emerson sharp enough to cut you just grazing the skin, and can shave the hair clean off your arm. So why can We not seem to acheive this level of sharpness?

Thank you much for the response!

Kevin

 

[richstag]

i use a chef steel or sharpmaker rod freehand. ive also used very fine grit sandpaper on a block.

always finish with leather strop.

How did the sandpaper work? What type of end result did it yeild? Am I using the right type of strop?

Thank you for the info!

Kevin

 

[biogon]

They come from Emerson sharp enough to cut you just grazing the skin, and can shave the hair clean off your arm. So why can We not seem to acheive this level of sharpness?

Hm.

Mine get sharp enough to shave hair -- generally, as sharp as or sharper than from the factory. I mean I can't get them to the "scary sharp" level that my carbon steel knives get to where the weight of the knife slices paper or parts the first layer of skin on your finger.

A few things that I watch out for with EKIs:

- Make sure you deburr the reverse side adequately after every sharpening pass on the edge. I do this by laying the back side of the knife, grind side, flat on a fine or extra-fine stone, lifting it up maybe 1-3 degrees (just enough so it doesn't scratch the grind) and 'stropping' on the stone, spine first, a few times.

- I finish by stropping with MAAS or Flitz metal polish on an old belt. Again, when you strop the reverse side, be careful not to take the edge off. Instead, lay the grind down on the strop, push lightly, and lift the blade maybe 1-3 degrees off the strop. Strop 1-5x.

-j

 

[richstag]

Hm.

Mine get sharp enough to shave hair -- generally, as sharp as or sharper than from the factory. I mean I can't get them to the "scary sharp" level that my carbon steel knives get to where the weight of the knife slices paper or parts the first layer of skin on your finger.

A few things that I watch out for with EKIs:

- Make sure you deburr the reverse side adequately after every sharpening pass on the edge. I do this by laying the back side of the knife, grind side, flat on a fine or extra-fine stone, lifting it up maybe 1-3 degrees (just enough so it doesn't scratch the grind) and 'stropping' on the stone, spine first, a few times.

- I finish by stropping with MAAS or Flitz metal polish on an old belt. Again, when you strop the reverse side, be careful not to take the edge off. Instead, lay the grind down on the strop, push lightly, and lift the blade maybe 1-3 degrees off the strop. Strop 1-5x.

-j

First off, thank you for the instructions, I will try that.

I can get them to shave hair.... but comparing the sharpness of this side by side with a brand spankin' new, never used Emerson is not very impressive.

Anyhow, I was under the impression that you are supposed to push a little hard when you strop? Could this be my problem? I will try lightly, though I think I have a few times?

It just seems to me that as soon as I get it really sharp I strop it a few more times to find it not as sharp...

Thanks again!

Kevin

 

[biogon]

Hmm...

I find the factory sharpened EKI is pretty good, but more of a coarse finish. AFAIK it's done on a belt, so it's unlikely to get that same kind of edge at home? But I don't know for certain; I'm just guessing.

I think the factory will still sharpen your Emersons for you if you send it back to them, if you prefer that edge.

I used to push hard when I stropped, but I found that I would completely ruin the edge if I "curled" the edge when I lifted up (i.e. spine up first, edge into strop, blunting the edge). It probably also depends on the cutting power of your strop paste.

I use this metal cleaner stuff that polishes up blades and edges with a few passes, so it seems to "cut" steel a LOT faster than green or white rouge. When I used rouge, I had to press harder and do a lot more strokes, and the edge wasn't nearly as polished.

I also found that if I pushed down too hard, it would "roll" (i.e. blunt) the edge when stropping.

If it's really that stropping it makes it feel duller, be sure you don't "curl" up your follow-through on the stroke and also don't dig the edge into the strop during the cutting pass.

-j

 

[richstag]

Hmm...

I find the factory sharpened EKI is pretty good, but more of a coarse finish. AFAIK it's done on a belt, so it's unlikely to get that same kind of edge at home? But I don't know for certain; I'm just guessing.

I think the factory will still sharpen your Emersons for you if you send it back to them, if you prefer that edge.

I used to push hard when I stropped, but I found that I would completely ruin the edge if I "curled" the edge when I lifted up (i.e. spine up first, edge into strop, blunting the edge). It probably also depends on the cutting power of your strop paste.

I use this metal cleaner stuff that polishes up blades and edges with a few passes, so it seems to "cut" steel a LOT faster than green or white rouge. When I used rouge, I had to press harder and do a lot more strokes, and the edge wasn't nearly as polished.

I also found that if I pushed down too hard, it would "roll" (i.e. blunt) the edge when stropping.

If it's really that stropping it makes it feel duller, be sure you don't "curl" up your follow-through on the stroke and also don't dig the edge into the strop during the cutting pass.

-j

I need to learn to sharpen it myself, to me there is no point in having a knife I need to send back to sharpen. That is why I appreciate this help. I am going to give this a shot.

I use flitz. Should I use something like a mag wheel polish or metal glo?

Thanks again!

Kevin

 

[biogon]

Yah, I agree with sharpening it at home.

I found Flitz to cut extremely quickly. One or two wrong passes on the strop and the edge had the same glimmer as if the edge was dulled and I hadn't raised a burr.

On the bright side, maybe 5-10x passes after a medium hone and the edge is completely polished...

Good luck.

-j

 

[richstag]

Yah, I agree with sharpening it at home.

I found Flitz to cut extremely quickly. One or two wrong passes on the strop and the edge had the same glimmer as if the edge was dulled and I hadn't raised a burr.

On the bright side, maybe 5-10x passes after a medium hone and the edge is completely polished...

Good luck.

-j

I tryed this and it worked ok. I think that the problem is with me. I used a v ceramic rod sharpener (two rods make a V). Ran it through the coarse about five times and then the fine five times and presto that thing got sharp.

I have renewed my confidence in my emerson blades.

Thanks for keeping me going guys!

By the way, I took it outside and cut right through some half inch rope about ten times to find it still shave the hair right off my leg.

:thumbup:

Kevin

 

[biogon]

Good to hear it worked out for you in the end!

-j

 

[spyken]

It just seems to me that as soon as I get it really sharp I strop it a few more times to find it not as sharp...

Thanks again!

Kevin

I'm not a sharpening guru, but I've had the same experience Biogon has. I lowered the edge bevel for better results. And it did. I could get my CQC7 to shave super easily and it would slice paper like nobody's business...it was a couple of years ago though.

hmmmm....seems like you are rounding off the edge as you strop. are you using a wood-backed strop? also, don't strop so hard and don't lift your hand off at the end. you could also try diamond paste as a stropping compound.

The 13 seems fairly easy to sharpen as it is not a recurve, I think. Good luck.

 

[richstag]

I'm not a sharpening guru, but I've had the same experience Biogon has. I lowered the edge bevel for better results. And it did. I could get my CQC7 to shave super easily and it would slice paper like nobody's business...it was a couple of years ago though.

hmmmm....seems like you are rounding off the edge as you strop. are you using a wood-backed strop? also, don't strop so hard and don't lift your hand off at the end. you could also try diamond paste as a stropping compound.

The 13 seems fairly easy to sharpen as it is not a recurve, I think. Good luck.

Yeah I must be screwing up something when I strop. Although I have had nothing but good results with my other knives. I am using the one in the link up the page (with a wood back)

The 13 should be very easy to sharpen which is why I was so frustrated with it.

When you guys say that you lowered the edge bevel what exactly do you mean and how much?

I am glad that I have gotten this far. Thanks for all of the help everyone!

Kevin

 

[richstag]

Good to hear it worked out for you in the end!

-j

I agree! I like your new Bravo-1. I have a Teddy. The Teddy is by far the easiest knife to sharpen that I own aside from my Randall 1,

Kevin

 

[biogon]

Spyken:
HEY! Good to see you here. =)

Spyken is more hardcore than me about sharpness. I settle for passably sharp... he's obsessed.

In regards to stropping:

I imagine it has something to do with the single edge bevel that could be throwing your feel off? On the EdgePro, it comes in at something like well over 60 degrees, but it's deceptive because of how the single edge is set up.

In regards to the edge angle:

I just keep slowly lowering the edge angle and reprofiling/grinding until the edge bevel is between approximately 3/32" to 1/8" wide of exposed steel.

Since it's a single bevel, I can't really figure out what the included edge angle is, relative to a normal double-bevel knife.

In regards to steels:

I always found carbon non-stainless to sharpen a lot easier than stainless. The worst was Talonite... gummy, gritty, and the damn burr would just keep flopping back and forth. The next worse would probably be 3V... no matter how hard or long you grind, you can't remove enough steel to raise a burr!

In regards to the Bravo-1:

It is... very nice. Thank you for the kind words!

-j

 

[MORIMOTOM]

How did the sandpaper work? What type of end result did it yeild? Am I using the right type of strop?

Thank you for the info!

Kevin

the sandpaper works well. i normally use up to 2500 grit, starting with 600-800 grit. i pull the blade towards me, or in a reverse fashion that when using the sharpmaker.

you are using the same strop i have. i normally dont use compound, but have, and didnt notice any better results.

the chef steel has been the key for me. use whatever media you prefer, then steel the bevel, and finish with the strop.

time consuming if you let the edge go way down, but if you maintain the edge after use, it only takes a few strokes.

 

[richstag]

Looks like I have alot to work with now! Thanks for all of the help!

Kevin

 

[jkieffer]

I recently bought a cqc-15 & within a couple days of getting it, managed to chip the blade. It wasn't in need of sharpening, but I just couldn't stand the chip. I have a Lansky sharpener (I know, it's a poor man's Edgepro) & reprofiled it to 20 degrees. I had to really work on the flat side to create an edge. The knife is now shaving sharp, & seems to be a lot more durable than the factory edge. I've tried some light chopping, cutting cardboard, etc & it seems to hold up well, plus now that it's reprofiled to the Lansky 20 degrees, I can resharpen it easily.

My 2 cents

 

[richstag]

I recently bought a cqc-15 & within a couple days of getting it, managed to chip the blade. It wasn't in need of sharpening, but I just couldn't stand the chip. I have a Lansky sharpener (I know, it's a poor man's Edgepro) & reprofiled it to 20 degrees. I had to really work on the flat side to create an edge. The knife is now shaving sharp, & seems to be a lot more durable than the factory edge. I've tried some light chopping, cutting cardboard, etc & it seems to hold up well, plus now that it's reprofiled to the Lansky 20 degrees, I can resharpen it easily.

My 2 cents

I have a Lansky set. It works well for me as long as you set it up tight and the same way everytime.