Any Emerson Sharpening Experts?

I think most people recommend stropping or sharpening the reverse side of serrations.

AFAIK, nothing will sharpen the small spikes from the front; the round diamond hone will get into the wider curved serrations as you've noticed.

I'm not sure which factories will sharpen serrations, actually. Benchmade says they don't. There is a small chance that Spyderco does, but I don't know for certain.

-j
 
biogon said:
I think most people recommend stropping or sharpening the reverse side of serrations.

AFAIK, nothing will sharpen the small spikes from the front; the round diamond hone will get into the wider curved serrations as you've noticed.

I'm not sure which factories will sharpen serrations, actually. Benchmade says they don't. There is a small chance that Spyderco does, but I don't know for certain.

-j
Click to expand...

Thank you!

Let me also add this:

I have no experience sharpening serrations. This is my first serrated knife other than my kbar that I have never cared to sharpen.

Would there be any triangular sharpeners that might fit in the small spikes. I know you said none but just being hopefull.

Let me know if I am waisting my time worrying about this.

Thanks again!

Kevin
 
Thanks SIFU1A!

I figured it out.

Hopefully I will have no more sharpening questions for a good long while!

Kevin
 
Sharpening serrations:

Steel the back, strop the front on leather or fine sandpaper (I've only used an old belt).

By steeling the back, you straighten the serrations up, even though that leaves a burr in the valleys.

If you use a Sharpmaker on a serrated edge, use it just as you would on a plain edge. This will round off the tips of the sawteeth, but leave them very sharp. Eventually, you get them almost like a scalloped edge.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
Sharpening serrations:

Steel the back, strop the front on leather or fine sandpaper (I've only used an old belt).

By steeling the back, you straighten the serrations up, even though that leaves a burr in the valleys..
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I think I will use this technique and just use my DMT diamond to knock of the burr in the valleys

I think that should work just fine.

Kevin
 
CQC7 is EASY. if you don't mind marring the back. You literally sharpen it like a chisel, form edge, and lay the back FLAT on the stone
 
Here I go again!

I have been using my ontario machete alot lately. I remembered that I had a belt sander in the basement. I used a 120 aluminum oxide belt to reprofile the edge. I then hit the edge with an ultra fine diamond stick and stroped with leather.

This thing got SHARP! I took it to the woods and cut trees (dead), skunk weed, sticker bushes, vines, and trimmed some trees along the driveway. After all of this it would still shave the hair off my leg.

Now, my question is: Would I be advised to try this method on my cqc 12? Would it work as well? Would the type of metal effect the results? Or would I just screw up a perfectly good blade.

This is my first encounter with a belt sander. I usually use a grinding wheel for the machete/mower blades.

The thing is the machete cost 20 bucks and the 12 does not. But if I could get a good convex edge (which I like) I think I would find alot more pleasure in both using and sharpening the 12.

Thanks again and again!

P.S. I have learned a lot from you all and appreciate it more than it is probably realized.

Kevin
 
Great project! You are halfway there. The machete was the first step and a smaller knife is the second. If you have a Mora or an inexpensive folder with something like AUS-8 steel, try your technique out on that. It should work fine, and you will know you can do the same for the Emerson after that.
 
Cool! I am all excited. Like a dog that just learned a new trick.

I will let you all know how it goes.

Kevin
 
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