Any experienced makers wanna heat treat an already sharpened blade for me?

Joined
Mar 26, 2007
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Well, this is my second knife, and it's supposed to be for my wife, and it has come out GREAT so far, and I love everything about it EXCEPT my shotty HT job. I thought it came out ok, but now that I've sharpened it, I have found that it is much to soft, it won't hold an edge for nothing.

So, I'm wondering if anyone would be willing to heat treat it properly for me, depending on what it will cost.

Everything else has come out great and I have some nice ironwood scales ready to put on this knife, but I just can't give my wife a knife that wont stay sharp after cutting a single piece of 550 cord.

Here's what you need to know:

Steel: 1080

It has already been attempted to be heat treated.

It has been sharpened.

It does not have any handles on yet.

I would like it to be around 59-60 Rc


What I need to know:

What will it cost me?

Do you have experience heat treating simple carbon steel 10xx series?

Approximately how long will it take.

Thanks guys, I hope I can get this done right for my wife.
 
I let Texas Knifemakers Supply do my heat treating for me. Not to expensive in my opinion. I am not an expert on steels though and I know they only do certain types. You might look them up on the internet or call them!
 
might be better served seeing if there's a maker nearby your area willing to let you watch him do the heat-treat...lots can be learned. :thumbup:

Best of luck!
 
I will be heat treating some 1095 in a week or two. I would do it for you. Need to dull the edge to try to prevent cracking. It may warp, crack or otherwise turn to ____. I send my other steels to Paul Bos $14 + shipping he can do it better with more even heat. I am in So Cal. Send me an email with the size, thickness so I know what I am dealing with.
 
What happened to the knife? Didn't you say you already heat treated it? Or are you just trying to make sure the knife comes out better than your first since this one is for your wife? I would heat treat it for you for shipping costs but I'm not setup right now since I just moved back in with mom and haven't set up shop yet.
 
Both Texas Knife supply and Paul Boss only heat treat Air hardening steel, so I can't use them.

That is why I'm here looking for someone who thinks they could do it without screwing it up.

I would love to meet with someone in my area and learn first hand how to heat treat properly, but I kinda want to get this one done, and done right. She's been waiting a while for it, and I can't afford to practice on it.

J.Mcdonald: Yes I did already heat treat it, but it didn't come out right, it is way to soft and won't hold an edge at all.
 
I'm in the mountains East of Sacramento if you'ld like a 3 hr drive to watch.
It's really not that difficult if you have a heat source, Magnet and quench oil.
PM me if you want.

Ken
 
Did you grind your edge back beyond the decarb?
Kevin Cashen had some really eye-opening metallography of the decarb that happens during a heat treat, and in thin areas with angles (read edge) the decarb layer is much thicker than in flats. The decarb kind of takes a shortcut around corners, if you didn't grind back a few thousandths there is a good possibility that if you did everything by the book you may have good edge hiding in there, you just havent gotten there yet.

-Page
 
Did you grind your edge back beyond the decarb?
Kevin Cashen had some really eye-opening metallography of the decarb that happens during a heat treat, and in thin areas with angles (read edge) the decarb layer is much thicker than in flats. The decarb kind of takes a shortcut around corners, if you didn't grind back a few thousandths there is a good possibility that if you did everything by the book you may have good edge hiding in there, you just havent gotten there yet.

-Page

I heat treated before I did any grinding of the edge. So if there was any good steel in there I would have found it.

P.S. I was very careful, went very slow, and dunked the blade after every pass when I ground the edge on, just in case anyone was thinking that I might have ruined it when I did the grinding.
 
I seldom do this any more for others but .... I am rather close to the heat treating phase of a batch of seven 1075 blades. I heat treat my blades one at a time; never more than one at a time. I am guessing about two weeks + a few extra days to get to heat treat phase of making. If you have proof your steel is really 1080, analysis sheet or what ever, I would be willing to do it for $15 plus priority shipping back to you (say $20 out the door). Your blade would get a double quench. I need confidence in type of steel. I can not play with this thing trying to figure out what ever else it may be. I use a anti-decarb coating (Brownell's PBC). Your blade will arrive to you looking like hell but without any scaling or decarburation. It will be up to you to finish grind it back to white. About a 120 grit finish before shipping for heat treat is fine enough. (I would lightly grind the sharpened edge off before heat treating.) I could hit it at 59 - 60 HRc but would choose not to. I would hit at 58 - 59 HRc after final tempering.

rlinger
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rlinger: Check your email, and I meant analysis sheet, not data sheet. Been doing to much writing for an electronics project.
 
Stingray,

My crappy email service is if'y at times and can be slow. Nothing received yet. You can call me if email fails. My number is (304)755-0668. About 4:00PM to about midnight EST is best if using the phone. If not available a message with a return phone number and best time to call will get you a return call. If you have a data sheet and are confident it is 1080 I will need no other info concerning that and you need not send that unless you wish to ship with blade. I tried to heat treat a blade for a fellow once upon a time who had gotten the steel from a machine shop. It was claimed to be O1 by the shop person. It was not. It turned out to be medium carbon, composition unknown. I went round and round trying to treat it. It was a lose.

rlinger
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