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Any help for UH LB7 Schrade+ broken spring
- Thread starter PCL
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2011
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- 7,893
Looks to me like the spring is either broken or missing. Does the lock bar move freely with no reisistance? If you look into the blade well, can you see a piece of metal(the spring), coming from the butt of the knife and ending up towards the middle, or do you see a step in there?
Answer to your question, no. You would need to knock out the blade pivot pin and remove the blade to insert a piece of spring stock into the spring holder in the butt of the knife, then re-install blade with a new pin.
Check your visitor message, I have a much easier fix for you
Answer to your question, no. You would need to knock out the blade pivot pin and remove the blade to insert a piece of spring stock into the spring holder in the butt of the knife, then re-install blade with a new pin.
Check your visitor message, I have a much easier fix for you
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afishhunter
Gold Member
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- Oct 21, 2014
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- 14,296
I hope you can get it fixed. Looks like a great knife. USA made and no Swinden Key, to boot.
afishhunter
Gold Member
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- Oct 21, 2014
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block of wood with 1/2 inch diameter or so hole drilled in it. Put pivot pin over hole.
small punch or nail set, tap pin with hammer.
Easy. To put pin in, bevel one end slightly, fit in bolster, tap in until it is almost through the bolster. put blade in place, tap pin the rest of the way. The pin should be a little longer than width of bolsters, file off the bevel so the pin is flush with the bolster.
small punch or nail set, tap pin with hammer.
Easy. To put pin in, bevel one end slightly, fit in bolster, tap in until it is almost through the bolster. put blade in place, tap pin the rest of the way. The pin should be a little longer than width of bolsters, file off the bevel so the pin is flush with the bolster.
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
- Messages
- 403
I have a bunch of these I got from someone who bought out some old stock from the Schrade factory when they closed. I got some blades and assorted parts, and he also sold me some of these excellent lockbacks in various states of disrepair. Schrade made many styles of these lockbacks, using different springs, locking bars, liners, blades, etc. I am pretty sure I have seen them all at this point.
The spring you are looking for is called a fly spring. There are multiple styles. The double fly spring is only used on models with lanyard holes, which yours is not. Most likely, yours uses the straight spring, which is 1.810 inches long (just under 2 inches long) and 0.10 inches in diameter. Some of them are slightly flattened, and some are perfectly round. I have some that are slightly bent at the end as well, but as long as the length is correct, they are all essentially interchangeable. Take a look at these photos:
I found some spring stock at my local "real" hardware store, and you can find some online. I cut a piece to 2 inches and carefully cut back to the correct length so it fits (there is a recess in the spacer at the butt of the knife).
As others have said, you have to first remove the blade using a punch. I have noticed that the pin is slightly narrower on the pile side of the knife. If you drive it from that side, it will come out fairly easily with a few solid taps using a good punch and hammer. If you try doing it from the mark side, you will have a hard time. If you are careful you can reuse the pin, as they are normally made out of steel on this model. Be aware that the blade sometimes has a washer in the pivot hole. If yours does, do not lose that washer. If you must replace the pin, the diameter is 0.125 inches in diameter. Once you get the blade out use some fine sandpaper to clean up the insides really well, which can have lots of gunk built up. Once you have everything back together you will want to peen the pin a bit on the pile side, and then use some sandpaper to make everything smooth and flush, and work your way to super fine sandpaper, then some polishing compound to make it nice and shiny (if you wish). I have had some fun modding and refinishing these old classics. Here are a couple I modded. The one on the top I replaced some cracked scales with Padauk wood, and the one on the bottom I redid in Olive wood (from my own olive trees).
Have fun with it. These old classics are made to last forever, and can be repaired.
The spring you are looking for is called a fly spring. There are multiple styles. The double fly spring is only used on models with lanyard holes, which yours is not. Most likely, yours uses the straight spring, which is 1.810 inches long (just under 2 inches long) and 0.10 inches in diameter. Some of them are slightly flattened, and some are perfectly round. I have some that are slightly bent at the end as well, but as long as the length is correct, they are all essentially interchangeable. Take a look at these photos:
I found some spring stock at my local "real" hardware store, and you can find some online. I cut a piece to 2 inches and carefully cut back to the correct length so it fits (there is a recess in the spacer at the butt of the knife).
As others have said, you have to first remove the blade using a punch. I have noticed that the pin is slightly narrower on the pile side of the knife. If you drive it from that side, it will come out fairly easily with a few solid taps using a good punch and hammer. If you try doing it from the mark side, you will have a hard time. If you are careful you can reuse the pin, as they are normally made out of steel on this model. Be aware that the blade sometimes has a washer in the pivot hole. If yours does, do not lose that washer. If you must replace the pin, the diameter is 0.125 inches in diameter. Once you get the blade out use some fine sandpaper to clean up the insides really well, which can have lots of gunk built up. Once you have everything back together you will want to peen the pin a bit on the pile side, and then use some sandpaper to make everything smooth and flush, and work your way to super fine sandpaper, then some polishing compound to make it nice and shiny (if you wish). I have had some fun modding and refinishing these old classics. Here are a couple I modded. The one on the top I replaced some cracked scales with Padauk wood, and the one on the bottom I redid in Olive wood (from my own olive trees).
Have fun with it. These old classics are made to last forever, and can be repaired.
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2000
- Messages
- 12,569
You don't have to remove the blade pivot, and you shouldn't remove the blade pivot.
Remove the backspring pin, replace the spring, replace the backspring, clamp in a vise to compress the spring, and replace the backspring pin.
You guys do things the hard way!
Remove the backspring pin, replace the spring, replace the backspring, clamp in a vise to compress the spring, and replace the backspring pin.
You guys do things the hard way!
afishhunter
Gold Member
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- Oct 21, 2014
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That Olive Wood looks fantastic.
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
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- 403
Bill, the reason I suggest the blade pivot pin is because removing the spring pivot pin can damage the scales.
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2000
- Messages
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And, removing the pivot can damage the bolsters. Replacing the pivot can damage the bolsters, as it has to be peened in place.
The pivot pin has to be the right size, or you will have excessive blade play. Pivots can be peened too tightly.
The scale pivot should be punched from one side, the other side filed flush, and then punched from the filed side & the other side filed. Back and forth until the head is gone.
It can then be punched out without breaking the scales.
The pivot pin has to be the right size, or you will have excessive blade play. Pivots can be peened too tightly.
The scale pivot should be punched from one side, the other side filed flush, and then punched from the filed side & the other side filed. Back and forth until the head is gone.
It can then be punched out without breaking the scales.
I believe I'll go with the back spring idea, is the pin stainless? It looks like it is and I'll have to find some, I have brass but no stainless. Just thinking since the back spring pin is peened and sanded flush hopefully all the peened head is gone or wouldn't I be forcing the pin into the scale by using a punch and maybe cracking the wood. The only other time I did this I was discarding the old scales. Hopefully when they sanded it flat they took the outside diameter back to original size. Otherwise how could it not cut into the scale.
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Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2000
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PCL- read my post above this one again.