Any interest in a run of water cooled platen chillers?

Any interest in a run of water cooled platen chillers?

  • Yes, I would probably be interested in something like this.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No, I don't think something like this makes very much sense.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
What about cooling with air instead of liquid? Have some large fins on the back of the platen, and a small fan to draw air in, similar to a CPU heatsink in a computer? Some CPUs operate 90-100*C, and room temperature air is usually sufficient to keep the heatsinks from getting too hot to touch. Wouldn't cool as well as liquid, but would be simpler to do and still might be good enough.
Looks like a quality item you have there though.
 
Those fins are simpler to do, if you are casting, not machining.

I build watercooled platens like this myself for my flatgrinder platens.

DSC01007.JPG
 
I received my platen chiller and flat platen from Nathan on Friday. I've been struggling with keeping my flat platen cool for some time now. Up 'til now, that meant putting ice in my cooling bucket and stopping every few minutes so I could use a sponge to cool the platen with the ice water. Some belts get very unhappy when wet, so I often had to remove the belt when doing this. It drove me crazy!

I had planned on fabricating a platen chiller based on Chuck Bybee's recommendation. But I am no machinist. So when Nathan offered these, I jumped on it!

Yesterday I went to Home Depot to get an extra 5-gallon bucket, some hose, and some 1/4" npt fittings. Then I drove over to Harbor Freight to buy their 264 GPH submersible pump for a staggering $13. I had no idea if this pump would provide enough volume to effectively cool, but this is more of a "proof-of-concept" pump that will likely be replaced anyway.

Using a 1" & 1/2" small wheel, I ground a couple of reliefs in the top of both the lid and the bucket to allow the power cord and output hose to exit the bucket. I then drilled and tapped a 1/2" hole in the side of the bucket for the water return hose.

It works! And it works very, very well. I worked on cleaning up the flats of a small batch of heat-treated knives today and I was astonished at how cool both the platen and the knives remained. There were times when I had the KMG cranked up to 100% and grinding hard. After several minutes I turned the grinder off and felt the platen. No heat. None. This was using Nathan's A2 platen, but without any thermal grease as I haven't gotten any yet. The mating surfaces of the platen and chiller are perfectly flat, so there was great heat transfer.

I also tried the chiller on my old platen, which ceased being flat a loooong time ago. Because of this, the mating between the chiller and platen wasn't as perfect as it was when using Nathan's platen. After some very hard grinding, I stopped to check and this time I did detect a very small amount of warmth. But I had to touch the platen for a few seconds to really detect it. If I had touched the platen for several seconds before using the chiller, I likely would have needed to break out the trauma kit for a burn dressing!

Thank you, Nathan. You did a great job with these. :)

Here are some photos I took last night when I set everything up.

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Here's a shot of the water returning to the bucket. As stated above, the 264 GPH seemed more than ample.

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Fortunately, I already had my tooling-arm rack in the perfect spot. I built this rack out of scrap lumber when I first got my KMG, thinking it would be temporary. But it's holding up surprisingly well.

2012-10-28-at-19-09-23-XL.jpg


Here's a shot taken today while I was grinding with it. The pump ran for about 2.5 hours without issue. I need to figure out a better way to turn it on/off. Right now I just have to plug/unplug it. Any suggestions?

2012-10-29-at-11-35-35-X2.jpg


It's kinda hard to see, but there is a cool vortex in the water when the pump is first turned on.

2012-10-29-at-11-24-25-XL.jpg


Here's the batch I was working on today. 3 in O1, 2 in CPM154, and one in 440C.

2012-10-29-at-13-49-23-XL.jpg
 
Awesome follow up! Thanks for taking the time to do it. It shows true appreciation to Nathan, and is very helpful to those of us other yahoos look'n on. :)

Funny how temporary shop fixes can become fixtures of our process. ;) :D

BTW- Love the bumper sticker on your bench. :thumbup:
 
It works! And it works very, very well. I worked on cleaning up the flats of a small batch of heat-treated knives today and I was astonished at how cool both the platen and the knives remained.

Man that's gratifying. Thank you for the feedback, this makes my day. :thumbup:
 
Adam
Think rocky river rapids when Nathan talks about turbulent flow. The more the water bounces around as it travels through cooling block the more heat it absorbs.

Frank
 
Mine arived,too. It will be a while before it gets installed, but the workmanship and finish is amazing.
 
Here's a shot taken today while I was grinding with it. The pump ran for about 2.5 hours without issue. I need to figure out a better way to turn it on/off. Right now I just have to plug/unplug it. Any suggestions?
First thing that comes to mind is a relay, or you could just wire a switch off the side of the bucket.
 
Yeah simple AC switch would work.

If you had a DC pump you could shrink that down a bit. Use a cheapo computer power supply. Wire a switch, add a small radiator and a couple of computer fans strapped to it and even a integral reservoir if you wanted and you have a nice little setup.
 
There are many relay power boxes that turn on an accessory when the power is turned on to a machine. This is a good one, HF has cheaper units. The power draw of your grinder needs to be considered.:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2080165/28298/ivac-automated-shop-vacuum-switch.aspx

You could easily build one with just an SSR and a 6-12VDC output transformer. Tap the transformer input (110VAC) off the power after the ON-OFF switch for the grinder. The transformer output ( 12VDC) powers the SSR, which powers the pump. Turning the grinder on will turn the pump on.
 
Mine came in yesterday, but I havn't had time to install it yet. I will say this about it, even though it was already stated above, the fit and finish on this thing is impeccable! Far better than anything I could ever dream of making. Thanks Nathan!

-Adam
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

I've had a few people asking about it, so I'll point out there is a sale thread here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1002862


I run a lot of pumps in my shop for various things. I just plug them in at the start of the day and unplug at night. The power consumption of a small pump like that is pretty trivial. The only things I have on switches are things I turn on and off a lot. And the lights.
 
Thanks for all of the ideas and suggestions on switches, guys. I haven't posted much here on BF, but as you can see I've been around for a long time and I've always enjoyed the free exchange of ideas here. :)

I run a lot of pumps in my shop for various things. I just plug them in at the start of the day and unplug at night. The power consumption of a small pump like that is pretty trivial. The only things I have on switches are things I turn on and off a lot. And the lights.

The main problem is I have a multi-outlet mounted on the back leg of my grinder bench and it's hard to access. I'm thinking about mounting another multi-outlet (which has an on/off switch) on the front leg of my bench so I can more easily access it to turn the pump on/off. Do you guys see any problem with this idea?

Also, I did a search on thermal grease and there's a bazillion kinds. Do you suggest a particular type for this application, Nathan?

I'll be grinding the bevels on the above batch soon and I'm looking forward to experimenting with the radiused ends of the platen you made. I still struggle with getting clean plunges and I'm excited about that particular feature!
 
The main problem is I have a multi-outlet mounted on the back leg of my grinder bench and it's hard to access.
I'm thinking about mounting another multi-outlet (which has an on/off switch) on the front leg of my bench so I can more easily access it to turn the pump on/off. Do you guys see any problem with this idea?

Also, I did a search on thermal grease and there's a bazillion kinds. Do you suggest a particular type for this application, Nathan?

I'll be grinding the bevels on the above batch soon and I'm looking forward to experimenting with the radiused ends of the platen you made. I still struggle with getting clean plunges and I'm excited about that particular feature!

That's what I do.

I call the thermal grease "heat sink paste"

Places that sell computer parts should have it, it's used between the processor chip and the aluminum heat sink.
 
Yeah, pretty much anything is better than an air gap, even just regular grease. I think Radio Shack "heat sink grease" ($3.50 a tube) is just regular grease.

I've heard of using a copper based antiseize grease for filling larger gaps. (my gear doesn't have large gaps, BTW)

Radioshack has a proper thermal grease for ten bucks which probably isn't really necessary, but would provide optional results.

Hell, using nothing is working pretty well so long as both surfaces are properly flat.
 
I finally got home, picked up the mail and my chiller was there. I want to second the comment about the workmanship and finish. Amazing for the low price. Lots of knives go out with less fit and finish. Thanks for providing such a great accessory at such a low cost.:thumbup:
 
My chiller arrived yesterday afternoon. A really nice tool, can't wait to get it installed. Thanks Nathan!!:thumbup:
 
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