any opinions on 5160

Bruce Evans

Bruce Evans

Joined
Sep 26, 1999
Messages
4,486
I have been asked how well 5160 compares to the high alloy and stainless blade steels.I havent used the anything but high carbon steels because I forge .Can anyone answer this Question for me ? Thanks Bruce http://bladesmithing.isfun.net

------------------
The Soul of the Knife begins in the FIRE !!!!
 
Bruce,
I've been making a testing for a number of years, and outside of being "rust resistant", I think it's difficult to find a blade that has a better combination of desired characteristics than 5160 or 52100. When properly forged and heat treated, these steels will cut right up there (and often times surpass) the stainless varieties. Plus you will get toughness, durability, AND ease of sharpening. There are other steels that will out cut, or others that will be tougher, and even others that may be more durable. But for what I call "The Overall Package" forged blades of 5160 or 52100 are tough to beat. Take a look at the article on my site, it will better explain. Go to http://www.caffreyknives.com/articles.htm and click on "The Overall Package"
Take Care!



------------------
Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.caffreyknives.com
 
5160 is my favorite steel to use for large working knives. It is tough,durable and takes and holds an edge. It can be differentially heat treated. It will even show a temper line. I made a large Bowie out of 5160 a few years ago for a pig hunting guide in Australia. Every year he has updated me on the blades success. He uses it to kill the pigs once his dogs have them cornered. The knife has litterally killed hundreds of pigs and just keeps on ticking. By the way, you don't have to forge to use 5160. Bob Engnath started me on it for my first knife using stock reduction. When you grind it, keep an eye on its shower of sparks. One time I was grinding away on some 5160 when my wife entered the shop and asked me if my gloves were supposed to be on fire!

------------------
Ron Ruppé
www.ruppe.com/Knives/index.htm
 
Been there done that! I use the water bucket more to put my glove out than cool the blade somedays.Thanks for the info,I also have a Moose hunting Guide that uses my Knives and he hasnt killed any.he did break the tip of a small skinner( he was prying backwards with it,said it was his fault,it was only about 1/16 inch of the tip nothing serious)He is trying to find the perfect Blade shape so he keeps ordering more Knives,so I just keep making them for him....Bruce

------------------
The Soul of the Knife begins in the FIRE !!!! Akti # A000223
 
I have a Ed Caffrey hunter with 5160 and IMHO it is the best using forged blade I own! 52100, when done properly, is close, but I think 5160 is hard to beat. Also, Ed knows how to put the correct edge on the blade... the hunter is really great for a using knife.
I have used most of the stainless steels available and I don't even think they come close to a properly forged blade.
 
Bruce,

Thanks for following up with the question here. I have pretty much kept to stainless steels, except for D2 (which I understand to be close to stainless), A2 and 1095. I have noticed a lot of the bladesmiths using 5160 and 51200 without really understanding the why. I will have to try one of these forged blades at some point!

thanks,

sing

AKTI #A000356
 
I was kind of curious myself, thanks for the question.Now we know,Isnt this site cool where else can you ask someone a question and have a bunch of answers come back....Bruce

------------------
The Soul of the Knife begins in the FIRE !!!! Akti # A000223
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top