Anyang hammer owners

Sam,

I would suggest you purchase the largest and best hammer you can afford. I never thought I would ever want or need a 100# hammer but I have grown into it. Back in the day I also never thought I would ever use up a 200Meg hard drive on my computer. Though I only make knives for the most part, the larger equipment allows me to make things like large Damascus billets, mosaics and even break down Don's 2" w-2 with ease. A 33# hammer will work for shaping etc, but if you get into much larger stuff you will be disappointed. I have no experience with most of the hammers mentioned, but I know you will grow into a larger hammer. Been making any tongs lately??
I am looking to do mostly shaping and drawing of flat stock as I already have a press to do heavy lifting. I am probably going to go with the 25 lb Little Giant as originally planned because I don't have to change my entire world for that one. It doesn't require a specially poured pad, steel concrete filled base, rewiring of the shop, etc.
 
Sam,

I would suggest you purchase the largest and best hammer you can afford. I never thought I would ever want or need a 100# hammer but I have grown into it. Back in the day I also never thought I would ever use up a 200Meg hard drive on my computer. Though I only make knives for the most part, the larger equipment allows me to make things like large Damascus billets, mosaics and even break down Don's 2" w-2 with ease. A 33# hammer will work for shaping etc, but if you get into much larger stuff you will be disappointed. I have no experience with most of the hammers mentioned, but I know you will grow into a larger hammer. Been making any tongs lately??

Chuck, this is that hammer, the largest hammer I can afford and will fit in my current situation. I roughed out your tongs on Thursday, just have to final adjust the jaws to hold the right size stock.
 
Chuck, this is that hammer, the largest hammer I can afford and will fit in my current situation. I roughed out your tongs on Thursday, just have to final adjust the jaws to hold the right size stock.

Then I would go for it. You would probably be able to trade/sell it later if you wanted a larger one. Looking forward to the tongs. Though I have not forged a whole lot lately. I really need to do some, Falling behind on orders again.
 
I am looking to do mostly shaping and drawing of flat stock as I already have a press to do heavy lifting. I am probably going to go with the 25 lb Little Giant as originally planned because I don't have to change my entire world for that one. It doesn't require a specially poured pad, steel concrete filled base, rewiring of the shop, etc.

Since I'm at it, why stop now? :)

An Iron Kiss needs no special floor or foundation. a 4" concrete slab is just fine. I've even run them quite successfully at demo events on a wooden platform sunk 4" into dirt. The mass of the hammer itself keeps it still. It doesn't rely at all on the mass of any foundation like some other hammers do.

I'd also like to update a previous statement. An 100lb Iron Kiss will actually out-hit a 150lb Big Blue. I happened to have an email exchange with John today, and it's all about cylinders, valving, and anvil mass. I know that John has some custom valving in his hammers that does some pretty trick stuff, but I have no idea how it works. I just know it does :)

Next time I get to work with one of his hammers I'll have to shoot some video so folks can get an idea of what I'm talking about with the Iron Kiss. I'll see if I can do something that a lot of folks here can relate to, like working down some of Don's W2.

-d
 
Since I'm at it, why stop now? :)

An Iron Kiss needs no special floor or foundation. a 4" concrete slab is just fine. I've even run them quite successfully at demo events on a wooden platform sunk 4" into dirt. The mass of the hammer itself keeps it still. It doesn't rely at all on the mass of any foundation like some other hammers do.

I'd also like to update a previous statement. An 100lb Iron Kiss will actually out-hit a 150lb Big Blue. I happened to have an email exchange with John today, and it's all about cylinders, valving, and anvil mass. I know that John has some custom valving in his hammers that does some pretty trick stuff, but I have no idea how it works. I just know it does :)

Next time I get to work with one of his hammers I'll have to shoot some video so folks can get an idea of what I'm talking about with the Iron Kiss. I'll see if I can do something that a lot of folks here can relate to, like working down some of Don's W2.

-d
Cost and no place to put the compressor is what really keeps me from looking at the "utility" hammers like Iron Kiss, Big Blu, Phoenix, etc. I have a rented shop space, but it is really no more than a large 2 car garage size space with no "out back" space for a compressor. I am in an end unit, but the owner rents out the space on the end of the building for folks to park boats, RV's, etc so I can't even put a large fixed propane tank out there, much less a compressor. The upside is that the space only costs $275 a month in a town where there is no other affordable space in the under 1000 sq foot range that will let me run a forge. If and when I move to Texas, assuming I have some spare cash and the space, I will likely revisit this question and possibly replace my press and small hammer with a large air hammer of some type. I really liked the little 75 pound Kuhn that the guys at Troy have, but whats not to like. Talk about sticker shock!!!!!!!!!
 
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While I HIGHLY agree with Deker and others where a bigger hammer is better, it is not always an option. Too much hammer is 100% a real thing, you can have more hammer than you will need. While I would LOVE to run a Nazel 3b, It would be fun trying to convince my landlord to let me install it, let alone the wiring needed plus the added rent for the amount of power it would draw. It would do ANYTHING I ever asked it to, and probably more but it would be ridiculous for my situation, forging and fiddling on weekends, breaking down a large diameter bar now and again, not really ever pressed for time or on a deadline or anything, it would be overkill. My little hammer taking it's little bites to shape and work flat bar, draw tangs, taper tong reins and stuff, on it's little footprint with lots of nice clearance around the whole machine, no special wiring needed or no massive high dollar compressor stuck in a corner somewhere taking up more of my most precious small space. Might take a little longer to do things, might not be able to do some things, but the pros will still outweigh the cons. I would love to have the space and facilities to be able to get a Say Mak or Ironkiss, but right now it's just not in the cards, remember, right tool for the right job you don't use a BB gun to stop a tank, nor do you use a jackhammer to put in a nail to hang a picture.
 
Sam,

Out of curiosity, do you have a press? If you don't, why aren't you looking to get a press instead of a power hammer?

Mike
 
Mike, I do not. The type of work I do warrants the action of a hammer more so than a press, as I still occasionally to blacksmithing type work, that and plain old personal preference I just like a hammer more than a press even though I recognize how much more a press can do, the ways they work the metal is different than a hammer (not to make it sound like either is detrimental in the way they work the metal, just that the action with which they do is different).

Plus it is just a dowright cute hammer ;)!

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Pictures from James Johnson the new US dealer (that's him in the first picture).
 
Sam I make my living with hammer's and bigger is better and striker is now putting out a very nice 88# and 165# self contained they do need 220 3 faze witch can be trouble for home shops.
 
I understand your situation completely Sam, and yours too Joe. Though I will argue the "too much hammer" thing Sam. I'd just scale my work to match what I had :D Then again, I'm a damascus junkie and always want to do more, more, more! The next weld on my current billet will be at 1 1/2"x3 1/4"x11". Bigger isn't always better, but it's always fun!

I also always like to let people know about the Iron Kiss hammers. Not many folks have heard of them, much less know what they're capable of. I always like to see good people do well and so I'm helping my buddy John out, as well as folks who might buy his hammers. Being able to help friends find good equipment while helping a friend who makes good equipment is always a win/win in my book.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not badmouthing any other tools out there. The Big Blue is a nice hammer, and for what it is so is the Anyang. Would I love to have a Nazel? A Chambersburg? Sure I would! Then again, I'd love to have 4 or 5 different hammers around...I'm just a tool junkie. :)

-d
 
Mike, I do not. The type of work I do warrants the action of a hammer more so than a press, as I still occasionally to blacksmithing type work, that and plain old personal preference I just like a hammer more than a press even though I recognize how much more a press can do, the ways they work the metal is different than a hammer (not to make it sound like either is detrimental in the way they work the metal, just that the action with which they do is different).

Plus it is just a dowright cute hammer ;)!

It is a cute little hammer, Sam... looks like, if you get a nice chair with wheels you can "sit in your shop" and hammer...

I guess I asked the question because I feel like a press is both more versatile and a lot cheaper. I understand liking hammers better, though. I love to run them. Pretty soon here our 50# Fairbanks is going to whack it's first steel in over 40 years and it is going to be such a treat.

Mike
 
It is a cute little hammer, Sam... looks like, if you get a nice chair with wheels you can "sit in your shop" and hammer...

I guess I asked the question because I feel like a press is both more versatile and a lot cheaper. I understand liking hammers better, though. I love to run them. Pretty soon here our 50# Fairbanks is going to whack it's first steel in over 40 years and it is going to be such a treat.

Mike
Presses are definitely cheaper, but what I have discovered is that once you get the stock down thinner than 1/2 inch or so on a smaller press like mine or try to draw or shape, it goes REAL slow compared to what I have seen with any hammer. I am still having to do a lot of my point and bevel forging to pretty much by hand and drawing out the tang would go much more quickly on a power hammer. I also lose a lot of steel to scale on the press because it requires a lot more heats to draw stuff out. The press is great for knocking large round stock down to a more manageable size quickly and it is also good for setting tangs and ricassos. I will use it even more when I start to make damascus, but I really need some kind of hammer to speed up and clean up the blade forging process and take some strain off my already gimpy arm.:D
 
Presses are definitely cheaper, but what I have discovered is that once you get the stock down thinner than 1/2 inch or so on a smaller press like mine or try to draw or shape, it goes REAL slow compared to what I have seen with any hammer. I am still having to do a lot of my point and bevel forging to pretty much by hand and drawing out the tang would go much more quickly on a power hammer. I also lose a lot of steel to scale on the press because it requires a lot more heats to draw stuff out. The press is great for knocking large round stock down to a more manageable size quickly and it is also good for setting tangs and ricassos. I will use it even more when I start to make damascus, but I really need some kind of hammer to speed up and clean up the blade forging process and take some strain off my already gimpy arm.:D

Presses with quick change dies designed for forging blades will get the metal down a lot further... but I know what you mean, Joe. For a while I was in the position of having one or the other and if that hadn't changed, we'd have a press and no hammer.

I just found out tonight the Fairbanks' belt (runs a flat belt) is in the mail... it's going to be up and running really soon!

Mike
 
Is this hammer going to beat out (in price or performance) the tire hammer you were planning?
 
I had a Nazel 3B, 300 pound ram. It turned out to be an overkill. I got tired of moving it around and setting it up,… got rid of it. Unless you are planning on making Damascus steel, (especially commercially), I think a much smaller hammer would be better...
 
I had a Nazel 3B, 300 pound ram. It turned out to be an overkill. I got tired of moving it around and setting it up,… got rid of it. Unless you are planning on making Damascus steel, (especially commercially), I think a much smaller hammer would be better...

You should have stayed in one place then Tai! :D

Next time you have a tool like that to "get rid of", give me a call ;)

-d
 
You should have stayed in one place then Tai! :D

Next time you have a tool like that to "get rid of", give me a call ;)

-d


LOL

No way is any dang hammer or machine going to control my life again! :)

One nice thing about the smaller air hammers is that they tend to have a faster cadence, which is better for working thin flat stock, such as blades. However, it probably has something to do with the over heating that was mentioned. I think the 3B was only 180 blows per minute,... a bit slow for most stuff. On the Anyang 33 it's 240 and it says it will forge 1.4 round, or 1.2 square, which is large enough for most bladesmithing. The max size stock dimensions also means what it will forge "efficiently" or "without mushrooming". So, I'm sure you could forge larger stock with it, but just not efficiently. The max size stock for the #3B was 4 inch square! What bladesmith uses that? Most of the time it was a waste of electricity.

The small hammer is also less likely to over stress the steel. You can actually "hot fracture" it with those big hammers. :)
 
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LOL

No way is any dang hammer or machine going to control my life again! :)

And now we find the gooey center in the middle of a Tai Goo! :) You're only a slave to what you allow to enslave you Tai.

The max size stock for the #3B was 4 inch square! What bladesmith uses that? Most of the time it was a waste of electricity.

I regularly work billets that approach 4" high...I guess that why I like big hammers....

The small hammer is also less likely to over stress the steel. You can actually "hot fracture" it with those big hammers. :)

And so you need a hammer with good control and a well controlled foot to go with it. Have I mentioned recently that I like Iron Kiss Hammers? :D

-d
 
And now we find the gooey center in the middle of a Tai Goo! :) You're only a slave to what you allow to enslave you Tai.



I regularly work billets that approach 4" high...I guess that why I like big hammers....



And so you need a hammer with good control and a well controlled foot to go with it. Have I mentioned recently that I like Iron Kiss Hammers? :D

-d

My point is just that you need to get a hammer that suits your needs. It really just depends what you want to use it for...

The Iron Kiss needs an outside air compressor doesn't it?
 
Another nice thing about the smaller hammers is the relatively low cost of dies, which also has a lot to do with it. Just a big pair of flat dies on a big hammer is somewhat limited. You can use spring dies and intermediate tools, but I think a variety of regular dies is better.

With the large flat dies, as the metal gets thinner and wider, with a larger surface area of contact, they become less efficient and a lot of force is wasted, as it just travels though the metal and reverberates off the bottom die. The tendency is to hit the piece harder and that's where you run into problems with over stressing it and bouncing it off the bottom die.

I'm with Sam on this one. It's a cute little hammer!... just be careful with over heating it. :)
 
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