Anybody making oyster knives?

Matt Rochester

Matt Rochester

Joined
Nov 28, 2014
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I have made a few oyster knives and would like to change up my design. The ones I have made have a continuous convex grind on both sides and it was a pain in the butt to get all the scratches out on the slack belt. I have tried a bevel on both sides and am having a tough time getting the tip right. I was thinking of a new design and just grinding one side and slightly rounding the tip. I would like to see some other makers oyster knives to maybe help me figure out what I want if some of ya'll don't mind. I will post a pic of the one I currently have later.
 
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Ralph Smith of South Carolina makes many of them. His is considerably different than yours but both will work just fine. Ralph is considered the best living knife maker in SC these days. He is prolific making about 300 knives a year. I sat next to him at the Tulsa Wannamaker gun show in Nov and he is great.

John Lloyd
 
Here are a couple I've made:

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I have met Ralph and his knives are different, kind of like a butter knife. They are nice and I have considered something similar to his. He is also a nice fella!
John L said:
Ralph Smith of South Carolina makes many of them. His is considerably different than yours but both will work just fine. Ralph is considered the best living knife maker in SC these days. He is prolific making about 300 knives a year. I sat next to him at the Tulsa Wannamaker gun show in Nov and he is great.

John Lloyd
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Rookie25 said:
Both of those are really nice. I like the top one but that's the kind of grind I'm having trouble keeping even. Is it just beveled on one side?
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Both sides are beveled. I wish I had some tips for you on how to keep the grinds straight, but I struggle with it also. The first attempt of this knife ended up in the rut row bucket.
 
Is the first one hollow ground? Is the second tapered at the tip?
NC Biker said:
Both sides are beveled. I wish I had some tips for you on how to keep the grinds straight, but I struggle with it also. The first attempt of this knife ended up in the rut row bucket.
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How would one with the back side a shallow convex grind and the front side like N C Biker's work?

Tim
 
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I'm thinking maybe flat on the back and like NC bikers on the front. Hollow grind and take the edge to .020" or .030"? Change the handle up a little.
tim37a said:
How would one with the back side a shallow convex grind and the front side like N C Biker's work?

Tim
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It's rough but I like it better than convexing the whole thing. I will probably take it to a polish. I feel the corrosion resistance is better when polished. Surely we have some more people making oyster knives?
 
Don't overthink an oyster knife. It needs to do one thing only....go between the shell lips and sever the muscle.

Fancy shapes, grinds, etc. won't help. Just a simple thin tip with a 30-45 degree bevel all around the edge from the top side is all you need. The rest of the top and the bottom are flat. Finish should be simple, too. It will be destroyed the first mollusk it opens, anyway. I use a 220 belt finish and then a scotch brite belt.

I am getting ready to make a new batch of 100+ oyster knives in .100"X.75" AEB-L. Basic shape will be a straight shaft with the last 1" tapered to a rounded tip. The last 3/4" has a 25-30 degree downward bend to facilitate safer opening.
 
I think I may do a satin finish on my next run also. The first one was beautiful until I used it once. Then it was all scratched up. I think I will use some thinner stock also and just grind the top.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Don't overthink an oyster knife. It needs to do one thing only....go between the shell lips and sever the muscle.

Fancy shapes, grinds, etc. won't help. Just a simple thin tip with a 30-45 degree bevel all around the edge from the top side is all you need. The rest of the top and the bottom are flat. Finish should be simple, too. It will be destroyed the first mollusk it opens, anyway. I use a 220 belt finish and then a scotch brite belt.

I am getting ready to make a new batch of 100+ oyster knives in .100"X.75" AEB-L. Basic shape will be a straight shaft with the last 1" tapered to a rounded tip. The last 3/4" has a 25-30 degree downward bend to facilitate safer opening.
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IIRC Dexter-Russell has a number of oyster knife styles , each popular in different areas. Check their website.
 
I know this thread is a month old, but wanted to chime in and maybe help the OP. I have made quite a few oyster knives over the years, and I have always preferred to have a bevel on both sides. I will try and layout my process quickly.

1. I like to use 1/8 440c, or 304(pain to work with). I profile out the knife and round the tip prior to beveling.
2. I mark out where my centerline and plunge line will go and make my initial plunge lines on the top and bottom bevel (on side 1). On 1/8th stock I run an 8-10 degree flat grind.
3. Stick with one bevel until it has come just past your centerline (yes past your centerline).
4. Start grinding your other bevel on side 1, and as you start getting close to where the centerline was you will start to see your other grind line push back closer to the center. Take your time and if you can keep your grinds even, you will end up with both bevels meeting exactly in the center and the "blade" will also now be tapered.
5. Flip the oyster knife over and do the same thing to side 2.
6. Once all 4 bevels are complete, I will run the outside edge with about a 20 or so degree angle on a slack belt to convex the very outside edge (convex edge will last a little longer in my experience).

I hope this helps, and let me know if I need to go into some more detail on any of the steps. I will also see if I can scrounge up some photos of past oyster knives, otherwise I will post some from the next batch I do.
 
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