Anybody use a Lansky system?

[Joe Duder]

I'm a sandpaper and strop guy, but my brother in-law just purchased a Lansky system and he really likes it. I receive my Lansky deluxe tomorrow.

You guys have any warnings, tips or tricks you'd like to share? I'm kinda going into this blind. Any advice would help.

What angle should I use on Andy's micro bevels? I've always been a zero bevel sharpener/reprofiler.

Thanks guys.

Josiah

 

[Tim the Wizard]

I don't use a lansky but if you are going for fixed edge angles a good general rule of thumb is thin the blade a little between 13 and 15 degrees and then create your main bevel at 19 - 21 degrees.

 

[johnnyraggs]

Howdy,
I have a lansky and get great results. I would suggest you get the lansky Super C-Clamp.
As it rests on the clamp I use my left hand to hold it steady and my thumb to steady the rod on the back side of the knife clamp.
I just keep a little light pressure on top of the rod as it comes thru the hole in the clamp. Otherwise there is too much play.
I have only used it for v bevels.

 

[Imrahil]

I had one and ditched it, just too inconsistent, wobbly, and not versatile enough (not enough angles) for my taste. It has been quite a few years though. FWIW, I still buy their stones because they are the perfect size for getting inside a pistol slide and polishing parts.

 

[Joe Duder]

I don't use a lansky but if you are going for fixed edge angles a good general rule of thumb is thin the blade a little between 13 and 15 degrees and then create your main bevel at 19 - 21 degrees.

I'll keep this in mind. Thank you for chiming in!

Howdy,
I have a lansky and get great results. I would suggest you get the lansky Super C-Clamp.
As it rests on the clamp I use my left hand to hold it steady and my thumb to steady the rod on the back side of the knife clamp.
I just keep a little light pressure on top of the rod as it comes thru the hole in the clamp. Otherwise there is too much play.
I have only used it for v bevels.

I plan on using the vice out in my workshop, but I'll remember the C-clamp if the vice doesn't work out.

I just saw a video where a guy was using the exact finger on the rod to keep it steady technique. It looks like you get much better results using that technique. Thanks for the tip.

I had one and ditched it, just too inconsistent, wobbly, and not versatile enough (not enough angles) for my taste. It has been quite a few years though. FWIW, I still buy their stones because they are the perfect size for getting inside a pistol slide and polishing parts.

I knew going into it that this wasn't gonna be the best system out there, I mean it costs $30 and comes with a lot of parts. But I figured what the heck, it's only $30, perhaps it can be modified to work for the Duder. I'm excited to see how it performs!

 

[swonut]

I've got one and I used it with decent results. I free hand now, but that's more an indication of convenience. Just look closely at the clamp mechanism. That was the key for me. I used some duct tape to cushion the blade and from there, it was good to go. The system just never seemed "locked up" to me.
Mine is about 10 years old, so times may have changed.

I also used to put some 1000 or 2000 grit paper on the stones to finish it up.

 

[JesseT]

I have a Lansky with Arkansas stones, and it has worked pretty well for me in the past, and gave a consistently good edge. Note that I said good, because I never once got a truly great edge with it.

It hasn't gotten any use since I switched to Japanese waterstones (1000 and 6000 King Ice Bear stones and strop on CrOx and FeOx compound). The waterstones take a little more finesse, but give me better edges on the whole (I don't get the exact same edge every time, but they range from good to amazing instead of being just predictably good).

The Lansky is really quick and easy though.

 

[Ajack60]

I mark the edge with a sharpie, find an angle that suits the edge on the knife and sharpen away. I always put masking tape on the blade, it seems to hold in the clamp better, once the knife is in the clamp, check to make sure it is not cocked to one side. You can tell from eyeballing it. The guide rod does float in the slot, either hold the rod tight on the upper or lower side of the slot. This will give you truer angles as opposed to letting it float in the slot. If you like the system, you can get different stones that Lansky sells. I've got the ultra fine and sapphire stones to go with my diamond stones. I think you'll be happy with it. It has instructions and suggests what the different angles are best suited for.

 

[johnnyraggs]

The c-clamp has an adapter that fits in a hole on the knife clamp. When you want to flip the blade over you just lift it up, flip it over and set it back down.Takes 2 seconds.You don't have to undo the clamp. The clamp is really more about that rod (adapter) the knife clamp sits on. However if you do clamp the system it would be far less wobbly.Which is an issue. My left hand is working as much as my right holding it steady.
Also try and really center the clamp on your blade. The further you move from the center the more the angle changes. I was clamping too close to the handle at first.

 

[dcycleman]

I don't hold the jig, I hold the knife with whichever hand isnt doing the sharpening.
You have to retighten the jig sometimes, at least I do. The jig can mark up the surface of the blade so tape it of you care. It is not convenient for a blade over around 5 inches do to having to reset the jig further down the blade. All that being said it puts a predictable good edge on

 

[RRaconteur]

Josiah,

I have a Lansky I use with slipjoints. I've never needed to do anything much more than strop my FB knives at this point, so I can't say I've got experience there. Here's some things I've learned in the process.

1. There is some slack due to the design, as others have mentioned. Another solution I have found for the guide rod slack is to tape over the guide hole and poke a small hole through. This forms a grommet of sorts that improves the system.

2. Others have mentioned taping the spine to allow better grip. I did this earlier on, and then discovered taping the clamp itself seemed to work better. Ymmv, of course. I also (in flagrant disregard for the instructions) use a screwdriver to tighten the clamp with some knives.

3. Again, as others have mentioned, clamp as close to the center of the blade as possible. Since the angle changes constantly, clamping in the center minimizes these variables. Also, just expect that your bevels won't look even. Tips are thicker by nature on most knives, and the Lansky can't adjust for that the way you'd slightly raise the handle end when stripping or free hand sharpening. That means the bevel will be wider there than closer to the handle. This is also why longer blades don't work so well. I've done it on some cheap chef's knives, but the results weren't spectacular. I saw someone recommend buying a second clamp for longer blades, which seems like it should work.

4. I time sides instead of counting strokes. This is a tip I found online that seems to work better for me. 1-2 minute timer, flip. Repeat until the wire edge starts to form, then move up the stones.

5. This is a general sharpening thing, but it was really drilled into me with this system: spend most of your time with the coarsest stones. Nothing else in this system will work if your bevel isn't just right. I'm looking to buy a diamond extra coarse stone to aid in this step.

6. I get a consistently good edge. Paper cutting, hair shaving edge. Not a scalpel, hair tree-topping edge, nothing that competes with my straight razors. But an edge that is much sharper than the average person thinks "sharp" can be on a pocketknife. It's more than adequate for any uses I might have, though it will not satisfy someone who is really into being able to achieve the sharpest possible knife. My conception of "sharp" changed dramatically when I held a knife sharpened my McVeyMac which he described as sharp but far from the best I can do. Sharp for me is no where near his league. But it works for my purposes, for me, for now.

Something else may come to me, but I think that is the highlights. Happy sharpening!


Michael

 

[Joe Duder]

I've got one and I used it with decent results. I free hand now, but that's more an indication of convenience. Just look closely at the clamp mechanism. That was the key for me. I used some duct tape to cushion the blade and from there, it was good to go. The system just never seemed "locked up" to me.
Mine is about 10 years old, so times may have changed.

I also used to put some 1000 or 2000 grit paper on the stones to finish it up.

I have a Lansky with Arkansas stones, and it has worked pretty well for me in the past, and gave a consistently good edge. Note that I said good, because I never once got a truly great edge with it.

It hasn't gotten any use since I switched to Japanese waterstones (1000 and 6000 King Ice Bear stones and strop on CrOx and FeOx compound). The waterstones take a little more finesse, but give me better edges on the whole (I don't get the exact same edge every time, but they range from good to amazing instead of being just predictably good).

The Lansky is really quick and easy though.

I'm a few steps away from waterstones. I can tell from the videos and threads out there that collecting stones can be just as bad as collecting knives. Though the edges may not be 100% identical or consistent! I know that's probably the best way to get a crazy sharp edge.

I mark the edge with a sharpie, find an angle that suits the edge on the knife and sharpen away. I always put masking tape on the blade, it seems to hold in the clamp better, once the knife is in the clamp, check to make sure it is not cocked to one side. You can tell from eyeballing it. The guide rod does float in the slot, either hold the rod tight on the upper or lower side of the slot. This will give you truer angles as opposed to letting it float in the slot. If you like the system, you can get different stones that Lansky sells. I've got the ultra fine and sapphire stones to go with my diamond stones. I think you'll be happy with it. It has instructions and suggests what the different angles are best suited for.

I think mine comes with a sapphire stone. I can't wait to use it. I'm sure it will be like most of my sharpening experiences- Some days I suck and some days I'm Hattori Hanzo with sharpening.

The c-clamp has an adapter that fits in a hole on the knife clamp. When you want to flip the blade over you just lift it up, flip it over and set it back down.Takes 2 seconds.You don't have to undo the clamp. The clamp is really more about that rod (adapter) the knife clamp sits on. However if you do clamp the system it would be far less wobbly.Which is an issue. My left hand is working as much as my right holding it steady.
Also try and really center the clamp on your blade. The further you move from the center the more the angle changes. I was clamping too close to the handle at first.

The C-clamp sounds pretty convenient. Sound like if you don't have a C-clamp and aren't around a vice, the system doesn't work as well. I think I'm gonna pick one up.

I don't hold the jig, I hold the knife with whichever hand isnt doing the sharpening.
You have to retighten the jig sometimes, at least I do. The jig can mark up the surface of the blade so tape it of you care. It is not convenient for a blade over around 5 inches do to having to reset the jig further down the blade. All that being said it puts a predictable good edge on

By design the jig seems like it's going to give me the most problems. I hear applying too much pressure can tweek or bend the jigs. I'll keep taping and keeping them tight in mind.

I mean no matter how you use this system it seems like your blade has to hang Orr rest over an open area. So in theory if that clamp isn't tight or if it was tight but came loose, your blade could hit the deck or worse the top of a flip flop.

Josiah,

I have a Lansky I use with slipjoints. I've never needed to do anything much more than strop my FB knives at this point, so I can't say I've got experience there. Here's some things I've learned in the process.

1. There is some slack due to the design, as others have mentioned. Another solution I have found for the guide rod slack is to tape over the guide hole and poke a small hole through. This forms a grommet of sorts that improves the system.

2. Others have mentioned taping the spine to allow better grip. I did this earlier on, and then discovered taping the clamp itself seemed to work better. Ymmv, of course. I also (in flagrant disregard for the instructions) use a screwdriver to tighten the clamp with some knives.

3. Again, as others have mentioned, clamp as close to the center of the blade as possible. Since the angle changes constantly, clamping in the center minimizes these variables. Also, just expect that your bevels won't look even. Tips are thicker by nature on most knives, and the Lansky can't adjust for that the way you'd slightly raise the handle end when stripping or free hand sharpening. That means the bevel will be wider there than closer to the handle. This is also why longer blades don't work so well. I've done it on some cheap chef's knives, but the results weren't spectacular. I saw someone recommend buying a second clamp for longer blades, which seems like it should work.

4. I time sides instead of counting strokes. This is a tip I found online that seems to work better for me. 1-2 minute timer, flip. Repeat until the wire edge starts to form, then move up the stones.

5. This is a general sharpening thing, but it was really drilled into me with this system: spend most of your time with the coarsest stones. Nothing else in this system will work if your bevel isn't just right. I'm looking to buy a diamond extra coarse stone to aid in this step.

6. I get a consistently good edge. Paper cutting, hair shaving edge. Not a scalpel, hair tree-topping edge, nothing that competes with my straight razors. But an edge that is much sharper than the average person thinks "sharp" can be on a pocketknife. It's more than adequate for any uses I might have, though it will not satisfy someone who is really into being able to achieve the sharpest possible knife. My conception of "sharp" changed dramatically when I held a knife sharpened my McVeyMac which he described as sharp but far from the best I can do. Sharp for me is no where near his league. But it works for my purposes, for me, for now.

Something else may come to me, but I think that is the highlights. Happy sharpening!


Michael

Thanks for all the info Michael. It sounds like the overall consensus is that it puts a good edge on a blade. Which is pretty much what $30 will buy you now days- not something excellent, not something great, but it'll buy you something good. I knew this when I hit the "purchase" button.

If I get stumped, post #11 looks like a good go to. Thanks.

Even though the sharpening system is not what makes a scary sharp edge,( it's a combination of the trinity: the operator, the tool and technique) I still want to know what Walter uses to sharpen his pig stickers?

 

[Tim the Wizard]

There really should be no need to use a diamond stone unless you seriously damage the edge or break the tip.

 

[RRaconteur]

He may well chime in, but I think Walt uses a Wicked Edge.


Michael

 

[RRaconteur]

There really should be no need to use a diamond stone unless you seriously damage the edge or break the tip.

I would only use it for bevel setting, and even then, maybe only on my D2. Sometimes the bevel setting can take a while with my kit.


Michael

 

[Rey HRH]

I have a complete Lansky set up, started with the deluxe set and bought other stuff. I stopped using it when I realized its shortcoming. The main short coming is that if you don't move the clamp along the spine towards the tip, the bevel angle gets more acute towards the tip.

I also had problems having to retighten the clamp, uneven bevels from one side to the other.

I got the Lansky because I thought it was going to be fool-proof. But fools like me are so ingenious at messing things up.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Keep a light touch, and don't move to a higher grit till you absolutely have the apex formed.

I don't use mine much anymore. I've had it for about 22+ years.

 

[Joe Duder]

I'm quite sure this is operator error and I didn't have a whole lot of time to play with the Lansky, but how in the hell do you sharpen with the 17* hole without touching the clamp?!?! I was hitting the clamp with the stone while in the 25* hole.

I was sharpening my wife's 5/32" kephart btw.

 

[johnnyraggs]

Sounds like your a little too deep in the clamp. Pull the knife out a bit

 

[JesseT]

I can't speak for the Kephart, as I've never seen one in person. On most of my pocket-sized knives though, I would have had to clamp them with just the very tips of the clamp in order to get at the edge using the 17* slot (if I could get to the edge at all). That said, the 17* slot works pretty well with chef's knives (broader blade) which tend to benefit from such a narrow bevel angle much more so than a general-purpose/utility/outdoor knife. I think that may have been one of their assuptions when designing the clamp as it is, and it's definitely limiting for people who like to experiment a little bit.