Tim the Wizard
Street Samurai
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2012
- Messages
- 3,787
But for a true 17 degree edge you'd probably have to do quite a bit of thinning behind the edge at 10 degrees or so on a Fiddleback. Otherwise, you will try to sharpen at 17 and end up polishing the shoulders and thinning the blade at 17 for a more obtuse edge angle.
As you suggest, 17 may not provide enough stability for bushcraft, but I havn't used O1 or CPM154 enough to entertain any real use data at that angle.
In the interest of not substantially reprofiling the blade, it would be best to use a marker to see what angle setting on the device most closely matches the original edge and maintain it from time to time as needed, unless the bevel is simply too obtuse that it annoys you. On a Fiddleback, that is also unlikely, although perhaps someone here is better able to approximate the shop angle for you. It is likely variable within a tight range for each model and grind.
As you suggest, 17 may not provide enough stability for bushcraft, but I havn't used O1 or CPM154 enough to entertain any real use data at that angle.
In the interest of not substantially reprofiling the blade, it would be best to use a marker to see what angle setting on the device most closely matches the original edge and maintain it from time to time as needed, unless the bevel is simply too obtuse that it annoys you. On a Fiddleback, that is also unlikely, although perhaps someone here is better able to approximate the shop angle for you. It is likely variable within a tight range for each model and grind.
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