Well, with sic you need very little resin. The material should be kinda dry and pressed down to bond.
My sic stone had too much resin. It does work but not as it should.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Anyone else make their own resin bonded stones?
- Thread starter 311climber
- Start date
My sic stone had too much resin. It does work but not as it should.
Thanks
.Whatever resin you have in hand. I used bi-component casting resin (all purpose) and it worked fine.
Để làm được điều đó chúng ta phải có máy ép nén, không thể làm cách khác được
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,955
Sweet, thank you my friend! That's pretty exciting, I never thought about making my own stones.Thanks
Whatever resin you have in hand. I used bi-component casting resin (all purpose) and it worked fine.
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2020
- Messages
- 110
its a good time
You dont need fancy equipment to do it. Some scrap wood pieces and a pair of clamps or a vice will do the work.
Honestly, with a 15$ jack you can get up to 2 tons of compression.
I'll try to find one and give it a go. I'll share the results
I used up to 10 tons of compression force, but it still has something strange and not simple
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,937
My understanding is that the pressure used industrially is more on the order of hundreds of tons.
Hi all,
I found this thread back in October in my search for a "how-to" on resin bonded stones. It is AWESOME! Thank you to all of you who have added to this thread - you rock!
Since October I have been messing about with making the best recipe for a resin bonded diamond stone under a given set of limits, i.e. the resin I could get my hands on and what I could do in my shed etc. It has also been a great journey in multivariate experimentation, which in part has been my excuse for spending money and time on this project. There has also been numerus side quests; i.e. how to make a mold, how to make a consistent (objective) measurement of the quality of the stone, discussions with my really clever organic chemist friends on epoxy chemistry, and then redoing most of it, because I have learned something new. Great fun - all of it!
Below is the stones I have made so far - and this is only for stones with diamonds with a mesh size of #400 and a bit less of #1000. Yeah - I also messed up the difference between mesh size and grit - something that I still have to figure out.
I do not really have much to add to all of the above, except the call to action, this is great fun!
/Kraftcorp
I found this thread back in October in my search for a "how-to" on resin bonded stones. It is AWESOME! Thank you to all of you who have added to this thread - you rock!
Since October I have been messing about with making the best recipe for a resin bonded diamond stone under a given set of limits, i.e. the resin I could get my hands on and what I could do in my shed etc. It has also been a great journey in multivariate experimentation, which in part has been my excuse for spending money and time on this project. There has also been numerus side quests; i.e. how to make a mold, how to make a consistent (objective) measurement of the quality of the stone, discussions with my really clever organic chemist friends on epoxy chemistry, and then redoing most of it, because I have learned something new. Great fun - all of it!
Below is the stones I have made so far - and this is only for stones with diamonds with a mesh size of #400 and a bit less of #1000. Yeah - I also messed up the difference between mesh size and grit - something that I still have to figure out.
I do not really have much to add to all of the above, except the call to action, this is great fun!
/Kraftcorp
777 Edge
Dealer / Materials Provider
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2019
- Messages
- 1,169
Excellent. Make sure to please share your findings and what you learn here so everyone can benefit from it!
A few years ago I did some experiments using shellac based off of the "Fernsler Ruby Hone", which is a barber sized razor hone. I had some limited success so it may interest you guys. I bought prediluted shellac from the hardware store, and did basically what the contributors to this thread have done with epoxy. Mixed a paste of .5 micron aluminum oxide and spread it onto a strip of stainless and waited for it to dry. It works, and I still have the stone, but as it dried it started developing fine cracks all over the surface. It's stayed in one piece, and is still usable for edge trailing strokes, but it lives in my collection as a novelty rather than a stone I use. I read later that comercial stones made using shellac as a binder are also heat and pressure treated which may give them the stability mine lacked but never persued it further.
I also tried epoxy, but used a resin that was too soft, and too low of a ratio of abrasive to resin. It was slow cutting and gummy, and it didn't expose new abrasive. I would try epoxy again, but would want to try a much harder/brittle resin in the hopes that it would allow some friability and expose new abrasive.
Lastly I tried thermosetting resin, Cactus Juice used for vacuum hardening wood for scales. It had the same issues as the epoxy with the added problem of bubbling and foaming while setting. Others may work, but this was a total bust.
Lately I've become interested in this again after buying and being somewhat dissapointed in the slow cutting speed of a Hapstone 100 micron resin bonded diamond. They use a reportedly non toxic plant fiber based resin which I assume is a lignin based replacement for phenonlics. I've poked around a little, but can't find anywhere a layperson can buy resins of this type, or information on how to use them.
I've also been interested in using "microballoon" fillers to thicken the mixtures and cut back on the abrasive needed. They're available made from aluminum oxide in various mesh sizes, so they might pair well with diamond powders to reduce the diamond needed for a given stone, and possibly increase friability of the stone as they break down.
I also tried epoxy, but used a resin that was too soft, and too low of a ratio of abrasive to resin. It was slow cutting and gummy, and it didn't expose new abrasive. I would try epoxy again, but would want to try a much harder/brittle resin in the hopes that it would allow some friability and expose new abrasive.
Lastly I tried thermosetting resin, Cactus Juice used for vacuum hardening wood for scales. It had the same issues as the epoxy with the added problem of bubbling and foaming while setting. Others may work, but this was a total bust.
Lately I've become interested in this again after buying and being somewhat dissapointed in the slow cutting speed of a Hapstone 100 micron resin bonded diamond. They use a reportedly non toxic plant fiber based resin which I assume is a lignin based replacement for phenonlics. I've poked around a little, but can't find anywhere a layperson can buy resins of this type, or information on how to use them.
I've also been interested in using "microballoon" fillers to thicken the mixtures and cut back on the abrasive needed. They're available made from aluminum oxide in various mesh sizes, so they might pair well with diamond powders to reduce the diamond needed for a given stone, and possibly increase friability of the stone as they break down.