Anyone else under the, "it's not sharp unless it shaves" thought process?

[Gadgetaholic]

I don't think that shaving sharp is sharp sharp. We can do a lot better than that

For me 'shaving sharp' is my minimum requirement for every knife I own apart from some butter knives. I also test on newspaper and I like the knife to be able to push cut without tearing. I enjoy getting a knife sharp anyway, so it is totally worth getting the edge to where I want it to be.

 

[PayetteRucker]

I wasn't talking about the Izula's functional ability, I was talking about sharpness of a knife, but doesn't "functional ability as a cutting tool" increase with sharpness, IMO the sharper a knife, the less force you have to apply when cutting through something.

I don't disagree. I personally think it's kinda funny with all the people on here using 340 grit to finish their knives and think they have a 'shaving sharp edge'... maybe enough to shave your forearm, but the second you take it to a rabbit and you need to skin the thing, suddenly that false edge is gone and wha oh... what now? I finish my blades to 2000 grit, and if I had a cost effective way of going higher I would. Sometimes 2000 grit won't quite clean my arm, but I don't care-because I know that edge is going to last so much longer than a toothy false edge... I'm just saying it's not all about whether or not your arm is clean, that's all...

 

[1581zebra]

doesn't "functional ability as a cutting tool" increase with sharpness, IMO the sharper a knife, the less force you have to apply when cutting through something.
__________________

zackly. That's the way I see it.

 

[mat_890]

I donno, if it's sharp at all a clumsy accident is going to leave you cut either way. With a very sharp edge the work is done easier and with more control.

Agreed but a sharp knife and a hair splitting sharp knife is the difference between a deep cut and a hospital visit. And for what? the ability to cut computer paper better?

To each his own, just be careful and don't let your izula bite ya

 

[schwome]

I wish my Izula had shaving ability, but I work in a warehouse & cut cardboard half the day, so my knife is pretty dull. I hate to call myself lazy, but after I get home from working all day, the last thing on my mind is sharpening my knife.... That gives me an idea, I guess I could sharpen during lunch.... O wait, no, I did that once & it "scared other employees" as my manager put it.

 

[hwpaintballer]

To each his own, just be careful and don't let your izula bite ya

Ehh it hasn't bit me in close to a year, last time it bit me was because I was applying a lot of pressure when cutting some wood, the blade slipped and...

 

[scooter doc]

I can see mr clean shaving his bald melon, with his izula.
dave

 

[Jake Bauer]

Care to elaborate?

I'm not a fan of the "saving sharp" mindset.

I find cutting computer paper a much better indicator of functional sharpness.

Shaving sharp is good for some tasks but for most of what I use a knife for, a toothy edge gives better results. For instance, a razor sharp, shaving keen edge doesn't perforn as well on synthetic ropes and sheet materials as a micro-serrated, toothy edge.

There ya go. I follow that mindset. I used to sharpen the edges of my knives to shaving sharp (which usually left the edge really thin). After a little rough use (cardboard, wood) the thin edge rounded out and dulled. I sharpen knives now down to slicing paper like shotty does. They may not shave, but I can cut plenty of cardboard or do some outdoor woodwork just fine while keeping the edge longer.

 

[xDogsoldierx]

I broke down and went back to the cheap 5 dollar hand sharpeners from walmart.I tried and tried to learn to sharpen with the sandpaper and mouse pad but I can't get it.This way is much easier.

 

[wolffbite]

I keep my edges somewhat like jakebauer and shotgunner11. They should be sharp (can shave with more pressure but not with any ease or comfort on my skin) but durable.

I find if I raise a good burr (visible to naked eye) and then strop it with green compound to polish the sawlike teeth I get a near razor sharp edge with a very small amount of polished toothyness. It cuts paper well and the microteeth helps with day to day cutting tasks like rope and cardboard...

I'm by no means an expert knife sharpener, but we all have to find what works well for ourselves =)

 

[shotgunner11]

I strop everything when I sharpen it but I mostly use a strop to remove rust and crud from the edge instead if trying to make is sharper.

 

[Boats]

Slipjoints= "hair poppers." I want them beyond shaving sharp. They have to fell arm hair effortlessly. Generally, if the slipjoint has more than one blade, one, usually the shorter one, will be as close to a scalpel as I can get it, and the main one will be a little more toothy for general cutting tasks, but still more acutely edged than any locking folder I own.

Locking folders=shaving sharp. I'll trade off initial sharpness for better edge geometry that will allow longer overall working sharpness in a variety of materials. I want these knives to be able to rip through abrasive materials like cardboard or carpet over and over without denting or rolling the edge.

Field bangers=functionally sharp if flat ground. Razor sharp if convex or scandi. Flat ground blades can be honed up in the field to be more sharp than what I call functionally sharp. In a flat ground field knife, I want it to cut adequately, but I also don't want the edge easily dented or rolled from use either. The edge geometry has to be up to an accidental ground strike, batoning into a wood knot, without need for a lengthy session of removing dents and rolls, etc. There are exceptions for dedicated flat or hollow ground field knives like skinners, I am talking about a primary "survival" blade here.

For the convex/scandi grinds, I want them at about razor sharp as the entire blade supports a zero degree edge. However, I don't want the apex thinned out so much that I still encounter minor dents and rolls. The better edge support of the convex and scandi grinds, and the built in sharpening angle for free hand field sharpening, at the expense of ultimate slicing ability due to the increasingly thick blade profile towards the spine, is why I prefer them in the field to flat grinds.

Since in the field I will carry a version of all three, the task at hand will determine which blade is employed.

 

[TXKnives]

I use a spyderco sharpmaker and I've been happy with the results so far. I use it on all my knives including my kitchen knives. I am thinking about investing in the extra rods for it ie. the ultra fine and diamond stones. I'm also part of the, "if it isn't shaving sharp, it ain't sharp" group. I currently have the splotches of missing hair on my hands and arms to prove it...