Anyone else using Cerakote? Tips?

[aarongough]

Also: I want to say thanks to everyone that shared their knowledge. Every little bit helped and I now feel like I have a bit more of a handle on spraying, and at least a much better idea of what parts I don't really understand!

Very kind of you all and it's appreciated!

 

[REK Knives]

thanks for posting this thread and the update aaron... i am having the same issues as you describe. I have attributed it to a dirty shop before ever reading this thread as it looks like dust caught in the paint to me... I have my own small shop so i will try to clean it good before painting. did you end up getting your own shop? how is it going now?

 

[aarongough]

thanks for posting this thread and the update aaron... i am having the same issues as you describe. I have attributed it to a dirty shop before ever reading this thread as it looks like dust caught in the paint to me... I have my own small shop so i will try to clean it good before painting. did you end up getting your own shop? how is it going now?

Hey mate!
Glad the thread was helpful!

One thing I've been thinking regarding Cerakote: it might be worth trying a heavy acid etch rather than the sandblast, this is not something that Cerakote recommends but I think it might work out better for knife application, as that way once the coating wears the acid etch will also wear off and I think the tendency to rust will be reduced.

I'm currently talking to a company about maybe trying DLC coatings on my knives, pretty excited about that!

The new shop is going well! I have been in the new place since January. I'm starting to plan for my move to mid-tech next year, getting pricing on large CNC machinery is exciting and terrifying all at once

 

[REK Knives]

that's a neat idea!

duuuude i'm jealous! I would love to get a bigger shop and more equip (can never have enough of either!!) but one thing at a time =)

 

[Frank Niro]

It certain is true, Aaron, that your travel along to get to whatever level you are reaching for is helping many others. A great thing to be able to do !!! Frank

 

[aarongough]

that's a neat idea!

duuuude i'm jealous! I would love to get a bigger shop and more equip (can never have enough of either!!) but one thing at a time =)

One thing at a time absolutely mate, progress stacked on progress gets you there in the end, no matter what the steps are! I look forward to seeing photos of your knives with the Cerakote!

It certain is true, Aaron, that your travel along to get to whatever level you are reaching for is helping many others. A great thing to be able to do !!! Frank

Thanks Frank! I think it's a fantastic two way street, whenever I post about something I always get suggestions for improvements and many of those have helped out greatly!

Not 100% sure where it's all leading, but I love getting to share the journey with everyone on BladeForums, that's for sure!

 

[Roadracer_Al]

Something nobody has mentioned, but might be fruitful to think about -- what about the interior of your oven? Has it been blown out with compressed air? If the liner is a consumable, it must be going somewhere.

 

[aarongough]

Something nobody has mentioned, but might be fruitful to think about -- what about the interior of your oven? Has it been blown out with compressed air? If the liner is a consumable, it must be going somewhere.

I agree that the oven must be clean, not sure what you're referring to in regards to the liner though...

 

[LARRYZ10]

Aaron, I have always wiped things to be coated with acetone after degreasing with detergent and I still had problems with finger print partials and tiny specks when browning or blackening black powder rifle barrels and also using some of the new bluing that uses heat to set. A knife maker told me not to use acetone but straight denatured alcohol instead. The spray degreaser that Birchwood Casey used to make came in a small spray can and it was wonderful if you wiped it down with an old worn cotton cloth and wore surgical gloves but I now use a spray bottle with alcohol and it works for bluing and browning but for Cerakote I cannot say...but I bet it helps. I used old cotton/polyester underwear to clean with because it leaves no lint on a rough barrel. Maybe trying the other suggestions and the alcohol will give you the satin smooth coat you want. Larry P.S. Try grinding some good stainless steel...you might really like it if for the corrosion resistance alone. LL

 

[aarongough]

Aaron, I have always wiped things to be coated with acetone after degreasing with detergent and I still had problems with finger print partials and tiny specks when browning or blackening black powder rifle barrels and also using some of the new bluing that uses heat to set. A knife maker told me not to use acetone but straight denatured alcohol instead. The spray degreaser that Birchwood Casey used to make came in a small spray can and it was wonderful if you wiped it down with an old worn cotton cloth and wore surgical gloves but I now use a spray bottle with alcohol and it works for bluing and browning but for Cerakote I cannot say...but I bet it helps. I used old cotton/polyester underwear to clean with because it leaves no lint on a rough barrel. Maybe trying the other suggestions and the alcohol will give you the satin smooth coat you want. Larry P.S. Try grinding some good stainless steel...you might really like it if for the corrosion resistance alone. LL

Thanks Larry! I was able to get good results in the end by degreasing in a plastic container full of good quality lacquer thinner, basically pure ethanol.

I'm not using Cerakote any more because I didn't like the way it wore. I think replacing the sandblast with an acid etch could possibly provide a better overall coating.

As for stainless, I like CPM154 but A2 is still much tougher than it. Early next year I'll be doing another round of steel testing that will include a few high-end stainless options, so I'll be interested to see how that turns out!