Anyone ever "stained" G-10...

Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Messages
1,262
...handles on purpose?

Might be an oddball question but on some light colored G-10 handles there could be some "customizing" room with regards to staining.

Anyone seen it done?
 
You could try dieing them. As far as I know G10 is pretty stable, and once manufactured is quite hard to do much other than machine, and even that is tough.
 
Some fella posted awhile back that he had been able to use dye to change the color of his G10 handle. To my knowledge he never said how well it lasted.

I wouldn't think dye or coloring would last all that well. G10 is epoxy resin, which typically will not accept dye once cured. It is fairly impervious to water and solvents.
 
The epoxy resins used in G10 and micarta are impermeable once cured. You may be able to paint or ink the outside, but it will wear pretty quickly because the surface of epoxy is smooth.
 
I know you can stain the resin before curing, but I wouldn't do it to finished material. G10 is far too resistant to chemicals. You'd have to use a very powerful, (and destructive), solvent to get any sort of penetration.

I think you'd be better off replacing the scales with your preferred color of G10.
 
I went to a local machine shop and got material to make some new scales for my CRKT M1. The guy in the shop called the material Textalite. This stuff looks very much like G10. It's made up of layered fabric in a epoxy resin.
I made the scales and I must say they came out quite nicely. But, the color was so yellow and a little too bright for my taste. So, I used a dark wood stain on them. First I just brushed it on and the yellow came out looking like it was dirty.
Both disappointed and disatisfied I decided I should try again. It didn't seem like the stain had penetrated very well. Therefore, I decided to covered the scales again with the same stain and then bake them for a little while in an attempt to get the kind of penetration I was looking for. Well, the final result was kind of burnt yellow/orange. I am very pleased with this . It looks great especially with the black blade and black hardware. I am able to polish/buff the scales without any color loss. The color does not come off at all. I have made scales for my Scallion in the same manner. I call it my cooked Onion.
 
Pictures please!

Perhaps adding heat softens the resin, I'd be interested to see.
 
Can't right now, I'm at work, wrong computer. I'll post some pics tonight.
 
I experimented with micarta once and it did not work. The color would stay on the surface and easily come off once dry.
 
I went to a local machine shop and got material to make some new scales for my CRKT M1. The guy in the shop called the material Textalite. This stuff looks very much like G10. It's made up of layered fabric in a epoxy resin.
I made the scales and I must say they came out quite nicely. But, the color was so yellow and a little too bright for my taste. So, I used a dark wood stain on them. First I just brushed it on and the yellow came out looking like it was dirty.
Both disappointed and disatisfied I decided I should try again. It didn't seem like the stain had penetrated very well. Therefore, I decided to covered the scales again with the same stain and then bake them for a little while in an attempt to get the kind of penetration I was looking for. Well, the final result was kind of burnt yellow/orange. I am very pleased with this . It looks great especially with the black blade and black hardware. I am able to polish/buff the scales without any color loss. The color does not come off at all. I have made scales for my Scallion in the same manner. I call it my cooked Onion.

cooked Onion ! :D I love it.

I too would like to see some pics , thanks bro !
 
I know I've post pics before but I don't remember being asked for a URL?
I thought it was easier than that. I'm afraid I don't get it, am I missing something???
 
ok.
Here's a few pics of the M1.
Sorry they came out so bad.
But you get the idea.
The scale material color was yellow before the stain was applied.


Keyman25

Keyman25

Keyman25
 
Just remember that G10 is porous, and whatever you rub into it won't come out.

Actually G10 is the exact opposite, which is why it is used in electrical, aerospace and nuclear applications. You don't want anything that absorbs liquids or is conductive.
 
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