Anyone ever used Itsaburl?

W

Will Leavitt

Joined
Jul 28, 2006
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3,953
Anyone used Itsaburl off of fleaBay? Did you have any issues with the wood not having full penetration of the stabilizing medium?
 
Will,

If it's the outfit in Kerby, OR. they are right over the mountain from me. I've done business with them for almost 15 years. I just called them and asked about what they are doing.

Essentially, they are soaking wood for a week in wood petrifier. The guy told me it makes buckeye burl about the same hardness as western maple. He said it doesn't make them bowling ball hard like K&G or WSSI, but he does get complete penetration.

Mark said the end result was that the wood only gains about 20% in weight, but still feels like wood, not hard plastic.

Let us know how it goes.

Gene
 
I am the guy at it's a burl who prepares and sells the knife handle wood. Most of the knife handle wood we sell is natural, unstabilized woods. I do stabilize some, mainly spalted maple, buckeye and redwood. The method I use involves submersion and soaking, not vacuum chamber. Most will be done using a product from Protective Coatings called "Wood Petrifier". It is used primarily for restoration of rotted architectural pieces. I like the fact that it is waterbased and non toxic. Full penetration for scales or a 1.5" thick block takes about 1 week. I put a test piece in with the batch, which I cut in half to check for full penetration of the wood. This product does not make the wood as hard or heavy as with the stabilizing companies who use a vacuum chamber and acrylic polymers. The wood still finishes and feels like wood but has been sealed and hardened. This is the same process I use for my own knifemaking projects. It is easy and an inexpensive way to do it yourself if you don't want to use the stabilizing companies. Many of our customers will get together a batch of wood from us and send to the stabilizing company they are most comfortable with, for stabilizing. That is our recommendation. Stick with the guys who prepare the handle material the way you like. Our main goal is to provide cool and unusual wood unlike your other suppliers. I hope this helps and answers your questions Will. Thanks, Mark at It's a Burl
 
I've picked up material from itsaburl and burlsource (same vendor, but two different eBay stores) and another vender, antlerexpress. I haven't sent any of the stuff in for stabilization yet, but it looks to be good stuff. Of course, I bid low with hopes no one else bids, so when I do win I'm not winning the primo stuff.
 
I will be at the Eugene Oregon show next weekend. I am not sure what the table numbers, but it will be 3 tables together along the back wall. I have cut a bunch of blocks and scales. I am also bringing a bunch of slabs, burl caps and cool pieces that could be used to display knives. I found some really bizarre wood while searching the woodyard here. If anyone has any requests, let me know and I will try to comply. If you are going to the show, please stop by and introduce yourself. Thanks, Mark
 
When people stop by here to look around, It is very common for someone to look at a huge piece of wood with little spikes all over it and a strange mutated shape, and to ask "What is that?". Hence the name. It started back in the 70s and has stuck ever since.
Another common question is "What causes a burl?" There are as many answers as people you ask. My theories are that they are caused by one of two conditions. Either excess radiation from UFO landings or as a result of Bigfoot urinating on the trees.
I am leaning toward the bigfoot theory. Sure, a lot of people around here get abducted by aliens. But we see bigfoot a lot more often than UFOs.

Just my theories. Make of it what you want.
Mark
 
You might be right about the Big Foot hypothesis, but I have another understanding, or perhaps an additional manner in which burl are created.

It happens from the sexual shenanigans of fairies getting it on with gnomes, which of course is nearly bestiality when it comes to the metaphysical realms of the invisible ones. Anyway, where ever the intermingled non-body fluids of these deviant conjugating elementals drips or leaks on trees, yup you got it, it's a burl!

Thus we see that burls truly are imbued with mystical powers. No matter how you slice them (literally or figuratively) -- whether aliens, big foot and elementals -- explains why burl wood is so highly sought by knife makers and blade smiths throughout the world.
 
Mark, you're saying that after you stabilize a piece of wood the customers then send it off to be stabilized AGAIN? :confused:
 
In regards to Will's question. No, we do not stabilize then ask the customer to have it stabilized again. Most of our customers buy the raw wood and send it to their stabilizer. What I stabilize is just a small amount using what I have available. It does not make the wood as hard as the companies that use an acrylic polymer and vacuum. Remember, anything you buy has a "No questions asked, money back guarantee" If a piece is not just right, just let me know and you get all your money back.
 
Like I said, I've been doing business with It's a Burl for about 15 years. They have fantastic woods and are good people.

Gene
 
Hat's off to total honesty and transparancy operation!
Good for you. I hope your business does really well!
t

Burl Source said:
I am the guy at it's a burl who prepares and sells the knife handle wood. Most of the knife handle wood we sell is natural, unstabilized woods. I do stabilize some, mainly spalted maple, buckeye and redwood. The method I use involves submersion and soaking, not vacuum chamber. Most will be done using a product from Protective Coatings called "Wood Petrifier". It is used primarily for restoration of rotted architectural pieces. I like the fact that it is waterbased and non toxic. Full penetration for scales or a 1.5" thick block takes about 1 week. I put a test piece in with the batch, which I cut in half to check for full penetration of the wood. This product does not make the wood as hard or heavy as with the stabilizing companies who use a vacuum chamber and acrylic polymers. The wood still finishes and feels like wood but has been sealed and hardened. This is the same process I use for my own knifemaking projects. It is easy and an inexpensive way to do it yourself if you don't want to use the stabilizing companies. Many of our customers will get together a batch of wood from us and send to the stabilizing company they are most comfortable with, for stabilizing. That is our recommendation. Stick with the guys who prepare the handle material the way you like. Our main goal is to provide cool and unusual wood unlike your other suppliers. I hope this helps and answers your questions Will. Thanks, Mark at It's a Burl
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the nice comments Tracy. Our company has been around since the 70's. The core of the business is natural burl furniture and carvings. We also have a big wood yard where hobbyists and resellers purchase burl and figured woods. I started cutting wood special for knife makers about 8 months ago. I make knives as a hobby and thought other knife makers might like to use some of our wood.
 
I may take your advice and post some when I get back from the Eugene Knife show. Thanks for the good idea. Any ideas what I should list; blocks, scales or bigger pieces to cut your own? Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Mark
 
Burl Source said:
I may take your advice and post some when I get back from the Eugene Knife show. Thanks for the good idea. Any ideas what I should list; blocks, scales or bigger pieces to cut your own? Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...

I looked at your ebay listings and you have some really nice stuff! You could probably go with all of the above.... I know for myself, I'd be inclined to stick with smaller pieces like scales and blocks due to the fact that my bandsaw is rather wimpy, but I'm sure there are several makers here that have the equipment to work with larger pieces.
 
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