Anyone finish anything out of that blue#2 from NJSB?

timos-

timos-

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
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It is all in the title, wondering what peoples experiences have been so far. Pics of patinas encouraged.

-tim
 
Almost done with a chef's knife. Maybe in week once it is all done and I've had a chance to use it I could report back with pics. I like the thread subject!
 
Finally finished this one! I really enjoyed this project....things fell into place. Blue#2 steel, Turkish Walnut handle. Edge was at .005" when sharpened. Thought about selling this one....just can't bring myself to selling it. I don't even have a proper chef's knife, so I think I will have to bear the burden and keep it. Poor me. Another shot of whiskey. Stacy.....I wanted to use the corby's for the first time on this knife. I was in too much of a hurry to get it done, and didn't want to wait for the fasteners to show up in the mail. So I stuck with pins. No pun intended! I hope you guys like it. No where NEAR the perfection of Mr Ian Rogers' knife (for sale kitchen knives)....wow what a beauty his is.002.jpg006.jpg008.jpg
 
Nice job, that looks very clean and one heck of a profile for the kitchen.
 
John L said:
Where did anyone find heat treat instructions? Thanks

John Lloyd
Click to expand...

Does Aldo supply the heat treat documents? The Hitachi steel I got from Germany included the heat trap eat instructions.
 
Warren, when I received the Blue steel from Aldo, there was a xerox copy of the Hitachi data sheet that included composition and a recommended heat treat. It showed an austenitizing temperature of 1525F for 10 minutes into a water quench. One hour temper at 180C (356F) gave 64.5 HRC.

I used the Cashen 52100 heat treat for Aldo's batch. Normalizing at a higher temp, refining the "grains" by thermal cycling at progressively lower heats, a quick spheroidizing for machining, and then used Murray's Blue Steel austenitizing temperature of 1490F for 10 minutes into Parks 50. I have no way of testing my RC numbers, but the max tempering temp was 400F....so I am guessing 62 max on my blade. It seemed VERY hard when sanding! I liked working with it quite a bit.

Next time I will forgo the thermal cycling, and austenitize at 1525F. The normalizing and thermal cycling should not be needed at all with this superb steel.

Only Timos likes my knife?
 
I'm very much impressed with it Stuart, you created a great profile and the handle looks pretty darn nice as well. I'm really glad you did not add a bunch of belly to the knife, which so many makers on this site tend to do. Nice work!
 
I like your knife very much. How do you like the handle?

I agree with Stereo.pete. I have been advising people that less belly is in most cases more functional (unless you do a lot of push cutting) and though skeptical, once used, people are agreeing with me (and the more experienced makers who tipped me off to the profile tweaks.)

I have been doing more Wa handles for kitchen knives. I used to think they were too plain, or would be uncomfortable. Man was I wrong. In the kitchen, the versatility is uncompromizing.
 
samuraistuart said:
Warren, when I received the Blue steel from Aldo, there was a xerox copy of the Hitachi data sheet that included composition and a recommended heat treat. It showed an austenitizing temperature of 1525F for 10 minutes into a water quench. One hour temper at 180C (356F) gave 64.5 HRC.

I used the Cashen 52100 heat treat for Aldo's batch. Normalizing at a higher temp, refining the "grains" by thermal cycling at progressively lower heats, a quick spheroidizing for machining, and then used Murray's Blue Steel austenitizing temperature of 1490F for 10 minutes into Parks 50. I have no way of testing my RC numbers, but the max tempering temp was 400F....so I am guessing 62 max on my blade. It seemed VERY hard when sanding! I liked working with it quite a bit.

Next time I will forgo the thermal cycling, and austenitize at 1525F. The normalizing and thermal cycling should not be needed at all with this superb steel.

Only Timos likes my knife?
Click to expand...

Good info. Thanx.

When I did a knife out of Hitachi White, I found it more difficult to sand than W2, both at Rc63/64. I was surprised, but that's what it was. It seems the iron carbides were harder to sand than the vanadium and chromium in the W2, probably due to the amount of carbide. There isn't a lot of vanadium or chromium in W2.
 
I like the handle. I know the faceted edges aren't extremely practical, and in line use would probably need a more hand friendly design. The spine is not rounded at all, nor the choil, other than a light edge de-burring. They are polished highly, tho....for looks more than anything. The blade geometry is pretty good. When the edge was established on stone, I feathered in the shoulder with the rest of the bevel, so there is a tear-drop shape toward the edge, terminating in what was .005" or so. Then it sharpened very quickly on the 1000 grit waterstone. After that I just stropped it. Running your pinched fingers on each side spine to edge, you can tell it is thin. Definitely thinner than most chef's knives are. But I told me wife, "Don't baby this knife." She babies other knives, being careful not to slam edges down, even on the wooden board.

You're right, there isn't much Cr or V in W2. A little goes a long ways? White vs W2. Both very fine grained....but the White would theoretically have the finer, and more uniform, structure.
 
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