Anyone have experience with Titanium blades?

Joined
Jul 19, 1999
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443
As the subject explains, I'm looking at a blade for saltwater use, and titanium seems to be the metal of choice. But I understand that it cannot harden as much as steel. About 45-50 HRC. I wonder if that is sufficiently hard to provide a good working edge that can last for a while.

I've looked at blades from Mission Knives, and the Boker Orion. Does anyone have experience with these blades, or in fact, any titanium blades at all?
 
Considering the money Ti blades run, and their generally poor level of performance, I think your money would be better spent on a Talonite knife (look at <a href = "http://www.simonichknives.com">Rob Simonich's webpage</a> for more info) or Boye's Dendritic Cobalt series, both of which are 100% resilient in saltwater and cost a fraction of what titanium would be. They also hold an edge very well, and sharpen up like steel. That would be the route I would take, at least.

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My Custom Kydex Sheath pagehttp://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
 
Take a look at David Boye's new Cobalt folders, they are made to be used where saltwater and such are a problem.

I just got one yesterday and it does cut well.

As a little test, no laughing out there...I sit in my kitchen and cut stuff up all the time, when I got the knife I wanted to see just how effective the `microserrations' were so after I cleaned my ears with a common Q-Tip, and yes I did go into the ear, my mom always warned me about doing that, I laid the Q-Tip down on some cardboard and tried cutting through the hard white part, compressed paper I think, the knife cut through it with a few slices, not hard pushdown cuts, but slice type strokes, I took a few other knives that I have and tried the same thing and I almost heard the Q-Tip laugh back. Small test yes, but one that I think everyone can try in their own home any time.

Now if I pushed down hard with my other knives it would CHOP through the material, also my serrated knives did a quick job of cutting through but that's the point isn't it? The Boye blade has those MICRO serrations that do seem to work very well.

Very light weight and a nice addition to anyones collection.

G2

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It ain't those parts of the Bible that I can't understand that bother me,
it is the parts that I do understand.
Mark Twain

www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Cabin/7306/blades.html

 
I make and sell mostly hunting knives using many of the popular blade steels. I also make Ti. neck knives. I use 6-6 milspec material for these knives which holds a better edge than any other available Ti I have seen.
HOWEVER!! I tell my Ti blade customers that this is a knife for emergency use! It will be razor sharp long enough to defend yourself if the battle doesn't last too long!
The knives are superlight, weighing less than the Kydex sheath they are in and look beautifull when they are anodized. The edge holding abilty just doesn't come close to steel!
I have no experience with the factory knives you mentioned. Lots of people will say that Rockwell numbers don't mean all that much. When they only hover around 50 they mean a lot!
 
if you want a piece of ti shaped into a knife for use as a prybar etc underwater..it will work great....but wont cut too hot... maybe once or twice then dull...id go with stellite 6k or 6bh(talonite) if i were you . it wont rust and will cut....costs a lot though

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
David Boye's Dendretic Cobalt steel folders are an excellent choice. I personnaly tested one for 18 mos, using it every day. I abused it in the yard and garden, tried it at salt water boating & fishing and it performed superbly. And, there is no sign of rust or corrosion for which it is guaranteed against.

The only problem i had was the clip loosened slightly. But I attribute that to my abuse of the knife.

Best of all, the Cobalt sharpens very easily and has outstanding edge retention. If you want hair shaving sharp, this steel is for you.

David Boye also make a fixed blade knife in Dendretic Cobalt. I already have one in my pack for elk hunting this year. Hopefully I will get a chance to test it as well.

Many dealers carry the David Boye knives. If your favorite dealer does not, have him call me. Your profile does not show your location. Feel free to e-mail me or call me and I can recommend a dealer.

I do not want to put down any titanium knife, however I have not been impressed with them.

Good luck!

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John F Jensen
"Your Quality Distributor"


 
I used a titanium knife for a few seconds, I'd have to agree they do dull kinda quick. What are people's thoughts on their strength?
Also, what are some good saltwater knives that people would want for heavy ocean, or water useage? Looking for at least 1 folder and fixed blade that would be real good "water knives"...
 
Thanks everyone. I guess I'll have to start looking at the talonite and dendritic cobalt too. If I understand it right, these are actually just another variety of steel alloys, just that they are impervious to rust and have no magnetic signature. Am I right? And if so, they weigh about the same as your normal garden variety steels like 01, ATS-34 and CPM 440V?

John: Did you have to do any maintenance on your knife when you were "abusing" it, such as rubbing on Tuff cloth? I'm living in Perth, Western Australia. Do you know of any dealers in this area? Does David or any dealers have a website featuring his work?
 
Steelwolf :

[Ti]

I wonder if that is sufficiently hard to provide a good working edge that can last for a while.

There is more to edge holding than just hardness. The ductility of Ti is very high which would lead me to believe that it behaves well to a coarse edge with the micro-points resisting fracture strongly. I discussed this with NamViet Vo before and his description was that basically the edge holding is pretty decent if the edge was left coarse and you are only cutting on soft materials like rope and such but dulls pretty quickly on harder stuff like wire (which is no surprise as it would obviously impact).

[talonite and dendritic cobalt]

If I understand it right, these are actually just another variety of steel alloys

No they are Cobalt based alloys. Steel is an iron alloy. Dendritic cobalt is supposed to be fairly brittle just like dendritic 440C. Talonite is not though from the description that Rob S. gives of it but the dendritic materials are supposed to be better cutters.

Tuff :

What are people's thoughts on their strength?

Low for most variaties. Mission claims to have a heat treat process which significantly improves the variety they use. Rick has quoted that it takes 1000 lbs of force on the handle to snap a MPK.

-Cliff
 
Steelwolf,
No, I did no maintainance whatsoever. I also distribute Sentry Products (Tuf-Cloth) so had the opportunity, but the colbalt needed no help. I will check with David Boye regards dealers downunder & web sites. Then I will e-mail you.


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John F Jensen
"Your Quality Distributor"
619-475-3633



 
as explained above...the stellite super alloys...stellite 6k and stellite 6bh(talonite) are non ferrous...this is what makes steel rust....it is also what makes steel steel....and makes it magnetic....they are a blend of exotic alloys....it has been around since the 20s...invented by some guy named hayes i think....great stuff...super wear resistant...cant rust....great for your project...email rob simmonich and get him to quote you a price....

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
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