I think I've read this thread in a deja vu state 10 times this year...
I'll take what they make. I just try to get a variety, each has its nuances.
Fer 95 USD, my M-43 coulda been spray painted pink and come in a My Little Pony scabbard.
The YCS I have has the tiniest of habaki bolsters (probably because it it made outta actual silver (not the 'german silver' nickel alloy). Spankin new M-43, same thing, and neither has a cho more than an inch from the bolster (now my Sher AK, which I love dearly, has some baad cho creep, but i thot of grinding in another cho or two, call it the dui-cho or tin-cho model!

)
My only pet peeve is the 'reduced fullering' on the recent AK Bowies, and a few of the last YCSs to trickle outta B.G. Solution? Shake some older models loose from their owners.
MY FURTHER RESEARCH YIELDS.................................................
Looking closely at the grinds and where the cho intersects them on my khuks, I think that the cho is added after the primary blade bevel is ground on/forged. They grind the cho where the bevels end to clean up any mismatch where the choil would be (where the cho is). It may be done even later, as I'll have a polished khuk with a fresh-lookin cho most times. Only the enclosed chos look to be done in the forge, with a punch, at the time of forging.
So, I would argue that the kamis place the cho always in the same place, and that is where the blade bevel ends, near the bolster. ALL of my khuks follow this model, as does my HI bowie, kagas katne, and bilton.
Now, I don;t think it'll be any easier to get the blade bevel extended further back, and we should all be glad that HI took customer orders in the 1st place for such reasonable prices. Ever price a falcatta from a custom knife/swordmaker?
Keith