ANYONE KNOW WHAT IS A DECENT KNIFE SHARPNER?

It's not meant for reprofiling or for heavily used/damaged blades, but I like the "Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener" for tune ups. Higher end sharpeners are way beyond my skill set.
 
sharpmaker works great for touchups. reprofiling I use a wicked edge or just my diamond bench stones and freehand. i used to use a belt sander, but now just use stones or sharpmaker.
 
Last edited:
A steady hand and a Smith's or Lansky tri-stone with a man-made "coarse" plus medium and hard Arkansas stones?
 
Are you looking for a guided sharpener? What kind of budget are we considering? What type(s) of steel are you sharpening?

I have and use a KMT Deluxe kit and it works great for all my needs so far.
I liked the idea of the Ken Onion Worksharp but I feared a motorized system, particularly with me, would do more damage than good but definitely a tempting system.
 
I use my Work Sharp KO and my Sharpmaker, and a strop. They are both easy to use, which was important to me when I first got started :thumbsup:
 
easiest is a belt sharpener. factory even uses one. just be careful knocked off or rounded tips if not taken off the belt at the right time, and too much removal and convex edges which isnt a bad thing if it isnt over done.

I still use mine for my user machetes, much faster than a file or stones.
 
All in all, the best sharpeners are the ones that each individual excels at. I use belts, diamond and ceramic rods/ovals. Stopped using stones and guided systems long past. There are 100 ways to sharpen and they all work given the skill of the user. You may go through a number of different ones until you find what's best for you. The quest for sharpeners can get as expensive or as cheap as the knives you're sharpening. The grail quest for the KNIFE and the SHARPENER can end up at an equal cost.
 
Just make sure that whatever you chose goes to the angle that Buck sharpens to.
Some don't.
 
GPyro said:
Just make sure that whatever you chose goes to the angle that Buck sharpens to.
Some don't.
Click to expand...
good point. need +-30 inclusive typically. course free hand benchstones allows for that.:)
 
afishhunter said:
A steady hand and a Smith's or Lansky tri-stone with a man-made "coarse" plus medium and hard Arkansas stones?
Click to expand...
I do all my sharpening by hand.
It's not too hard to follow the factory bevel and keep a good edge on all my old school blade steels such as 420hc from Buck.
 
I have tried lots of different ways over the years, from guided systems to water stones. Now, I most often use the Ken Onion Worksharp. It gives great results quickly, and when used on the lowest speed you won’t do much damage even while learning.
 
I use the ken onion work sharp for stuff that’s usually never been sharpened or has bad edge damage or broken tip and needs reprofiled , I think I have become a pro with the work sharp, But I just use a ceramic rod on my new stuff when it gets a little dull
 
I use a brass EZE Lap Diamond "M" mainly because it looks cool and it's easy to carry. It works. But, I use a ceramic rod mostly and touch up the edge frequently (after use) and test on paper as I go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top