Anyone lining their kydex sheaths?

[Josh Rider]

Ive had some issues with sheaths scratching/rubbing the finish on blades with a forced patina from ferric chloride. Usually pretty fast. I'll get a knife done and after a couple of times putting the blade in and out, the patina will rub off in some areas.

Would a liner material help this? I bought a large piece of leather from tandy as well to try some leather sheaths.

Anyone have similar problems with acid etched blades?

 

[FunkCoaster]

FWIW, I have production knives with various coatings that have been scratched by kydex. So that seems to be a common kydex issue. Especially so if sand or grit gets lodged in the kydex.

I have no experience with a liner in these scenarios, but I would definitely expect it to help.

Some possible things to research are:
How was the leather tanned? Is it chrome tanned leather? If not, the cut portions might still be abrasive. Also, if it's tanned using acids, the acid may leach onto the steel during prolonged storage. Modern vegetable tanned leather, as I understand, is pretty safe and stable.
Consider light/thinner leathers, or pig skin, ostrich skin, and the like as a liner. They are sufficiently soft, but very thin, so they don't change the shaping considerations as much.

Not an expert, but hope it helps.

 

[Kentucky]

Honestly, when I use kydex I just accept scratches and rubs as an eventuality(from use, not when its first made). Its going to happen if you use it..Get a few grains of sand or grit in there and a polished blade will look like you took sandpaper to it.Also your not going to take time when your standing waist deep in a trout stream to carefully and properly place the knife in its sheath. you slam it in and get back to fish'n.Im not an expert plastic bender but I can make a pretty nice kydex sheath but it still happens to me eventually. I just don't know a lot about lining kydex sheaths..

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

You can prevent grit from getting inside by not setting all the eyelets before sanding the profile/outside. I usually will just set one of the rivets loosely and put the others in to hold the sheath in alignment. Once the outside profile is sanded, I'll pop all the unset rivets out and then swivel the sheath on the one set rivet. Then I wash the entire sheath out with water and scrub a bit.

I would just either switch to leather or let customers know that blade finish may wear with use.

 

[Kevin Powers]

I just did this for the first time over the weekend, but I felt like trying it and it worked, but I didn't want kydex to scratch the presentation side so I did a half and half leather and kydex pocket sheath. I think it came out ok.

 

[Augus7us]

Look up the Kwaiken thread by Joe P in customs. I believe this was brought up and a few of the guys here made a couple with lined, inside and out, kydex sheaths. Don't quote me on that I only remember they lined the outside for certain but I believe a few lined the inside as well.

A couple of the guys brought up the negatives of lining them which is they collect crud that then scratches the blade. I think Matthew Gregory stated he makes his kydex so you can disassemble them. I thought this was a good idea.

Let us know if you line one.

-Clint

 

[Josh Rider]

You can prevent grit from getting inside by not setting all the eyelets before sanding the profile/outside. I usually will just set one of the rivets loosely and put the others in to hold the sheath in alignment. Once the outside profile is sanded, I'll pop all the unset rivets out and then swivel the sheath on the one set rivet. Then I wash the entire sheath out with water and scrub a bit.



I would just either switch to leather or let customers know that blade finish may wear with use.

Good idea! I usually set the bottom two and put in a drain, but this may work better. Thanks!

I just did this for the first time over the weekend, but I felt like trying it and it worked, but I didn't want kydex to scratch the presentation side so I did a half and half leather and kydex pocket sheath. I think it came out ok.

Great idea! It didn't even occur to me to try a hybrid sheath. It works well for gun holsters. Thank you Kevin.

 

[Josh Rider]

Look up the Kwaiken thread by Joe P in customs. I believe this was brought up and a few of the guys here made a couple with lined, inside and out, kydex sheaths. Don't quote me on that I only remember they lined the outside for certain but I believe a few lined the inside as well.

A couple of the guys brought up the negatives of lining them which is they collect crud that then scratches the blade. I think Matthew Gregory stated he makes his kydex so you can disassemble them. I thought this was a good idea.

Let us know if you line one.

-Clint

I searched the web with mixed results. As you suggested, some of them held moisture and other abrasives. It sucks because I'll get a real nice, dark patina and as soon as I put the knife in the sheath and take it out several times, the patina will lose its finish.
Thanks Clint, I'll check the Joe P Kwaiken thread and see if I can come up with something.

 

[AVigil]

The only place on the blade you should see wear is where the kydex locks up with the blade ie. the choil or guard.

If you are getting wear on the blade itself from the kydex that is due to not being properly fitted when made.

How many layers of tape are you putting on the blade? Are you setting the rivets when the taped blade is in the sheath?

 

[Josh Rider]

If you are getting wear on the blade itself from the kydex that is due to not being properly fitted when made.

How many layers of tape are you putting on the blade? Are you setting the rivets when the taped blade is in the sheath?[/QUOTE]

One layer of tape. The last time I tried two layers, I had too much play.
The first two rivets are set at the bottom (the tip) initially. Knife removed, then set the rest of the rivets.

 

[AVigil]

If you are getting wear on the blade itself from the kydex that is due to not being properly fitted when made.

How many layers of tape are you putting on the blade? Are you setting the rivets when the taped blade is in the sheath?

One layer of tape. The last time I tried two layers, I had too much play.
The first two rivets are set at the bottom (the tip) initially. Knife removed, then set the rest of the rivets.[/QUOTE]

That is why you are having your blade scratched.

I use 2 layers of 2" wide blue tape on each side then I use 1 layer of Gorilla Tape. Then I trim the edges.

Place blade in sheath and then set the rivets.

Remove blade, remove tape.

Put knife back in sheath and it will be loose.

Then you take the knife out, get your heat gun and gently heat the throat of the sheath just to the point you can gently squeeze it a bit smaller. I then hit it with compressed air to cool and reinsert blade.

Check if there is movement of blade, if there is remove blade and gently heat throat again and gently squeeze it again then cool it.

The blade should not be loose and it will hang in the sheath, held firm at the throat , the blade not touching the sides of the kydex.

It is kinda like the saya of a samurai sword. The blade is held at the throat only and never touches the inside of the sheath.

 

[Lu1967]

On some of Winkler sheaths he has some sort of felt sewn into the kydex.But I think it's more for noise reduction.

 

[Josh Rider]

One layer of tape. The last time I tried two layers, I had too much play.
The first two rivets are set at the bottom (the tip) initially. Knife removed, then set the rest of the rivets.

That is why you are having your blade scratched.

I use 2 layers of 2" wide blue tape on each side then I use 1 layer of Gorilla Tape. Then I trim the edges.

Place blade in sheath and then set the rivets.

Remove blade, remove tape.

Put knife back in sheath and it will be loose.

Then you take the knife out, get your heat gun and gently heat the throat of the sheath just to the point you can gently squeeze it a bit smaller. I then hit it with compressed air to cool and reinsert blade.

Check if there is movement of blade, if there is remove blade and gently heat throat again and gently squeeze it again then cool it.

The blade should not be loose and it will hang in the sheath, held firm at the throat , the blade not touching the sides of the kydex.

It is kinda like the saya of a samurai sword. The blade is held at the throat only and never touches the inside of the sheath.[/QUOTE]

Ok, I'll try this.

 

[theJman]

Up-Armored lines their Kydex with a suede-like material. Those appear to be held together with screws, so maintenance should be easy.