anyone make smaller variation of feather billet?

hardingknives

hardingknives

Joined
Mar 29, 2010
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I don't have the capability to do a large billet and split the loaf like many of you do to make feather pattern, I was thinking of trying a small twisted billet like 1/2"x1.5"x4" billet then splitting it and re welding. Does anyone else do it on a small scale like this?
 
I haven't heard of that being tried.

My guess is to use a low layer count ( 20-40?) and twist it really tight, then split and re-weld. This should drag the layers enough to make some sort of new pattern. Give it a try and show us what you get. The good thing is that with a twist there isn't a second weld-up to change the direction of the layers, as in the stacking of a feather billet. The bad thing is that there will not be as great a change in the linear pattern.


It might make a neat psycodelic look that you could call "time warp".
 
hardingknives said:
I don't have the capability to do a large billet and split the loaf like many of you do to make feather pattern, I was thinking of trying a small twisted billet like 1/2"x1.5"x4" billet then splitting it and re welding. Does anyone else do it on a small scale like this?
Click to expand...

I have made several billets with only a 25lbs LG and split it with a hot cut and a hammer on the anvil.
 
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Most of the feather WIP's that I have seen appear to involve splitting a fairly "short" billet with a tight pattern and then stretching it out a bit after forge welding the two pieces back together post split. IIRC, in the one WIP that Brump Bump posted on another forum, he got three "slices" of material from his one stack, each of which was high enough for one of his fighters. From what I saw, then drawn out, the pattern down't really ache all that much the than getting bolder. The "shape" stays the same assuming you draw it out evenly. Remember also that feather pattern is an "end grain" pattern.
 
I run an LG25 as well and weld in my coal forge, reason for smaller billets, thanks for the reply Cody! Great work! Joe, I was wondering about the pattern split lengthwise what kind of sweep it would be ,since a twist pattern would be side to side similar to the end grain of W's billet. Soon as I get some more 1084 I'm going to do it. I'm mega low on steel right now which is why I'm contemplating and not doing!LOL
 
Chad, i have seen guys do the "explosion" pattern which is a twisted W billet that is split and flipped. The thing about twists is that unlike ladder, end grain mosaic or feather billets, the pattern does not look the same all the way though, so there is a bit more mystery as to what the final product will look like. A few years back, Bill Buxton had a knife a Blade where he had split a regular twist bar into two slices and forged welded them back together "inside out" and forged to shape. That produced a very dramatic version of the little "star" pattern you get close to the center of a twist billet.
hardingknives said:
I run an LG25 as well and weld in my coal forge, reason for smaller billets, thanks for the reply Cody! Great work! Joe, I was wondering about the pattern split lengthwise what kind of sweep it would be ,since a twist pattern would be side to side similar to the end grain of W's billet. Soon as I get some more 1084 I'm going to do it. I'm mega low on steel right now which is why I'm contemplating and not doing!LOL
Click to expand...
 
Very nice, Cody!!!! The is not a hugely tall stack and you got a Lot of "stretch" when you split it. The makes me wonder how a shorter, almost square cube stack of very tight W's might work?
Cody Hofsommer said:
I have made several billets with only a 25lbs LG and split it with a hot cut and a hammer on the anvil.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks guys. Don't let feather intimidate you. Show it who's boss! You won't ever get it unles you try. Bruce Bump has a great WIP on it. It's a must read.
 
I liked Bruce's WIP. Good advice on taking the corners of the stack before you split. We know things can delaminate a tad when you starting getting weird.
 
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