anyone mess with handle texture?

I've also thought of experimenting with hot stamping. Would love to find a hexagonal stamp for my soldering iron.
 
HolyRoller said:
Same boat. Along with feeling the grips on my 119 and 117 were too... Square. Like, not enough flatness for my hands and edge alignment.

I used an electric file (tiny belt sander) to add flats to the 119, and a quick checkering job with a chainsaw file. Repolished grip to a matte finish, much happier.

The 117 got a similar treatment. I used a lower grit belt and did the whole grip. Slimmed it down, and left the rough texture. Came out pretty good.

Maybe not pretty, but they aren't collector items.

IMG-20230608-090211366.jpg
Click to expand...
I like that 117! I might try something like that! any tips on how you got it to turn out like that. it looks intentional and not just all randomly scratched up. did you go around it - like twisting the knife inside the sandpaper?
 
FLINT77 said:
I like that 117! I might try something like that! any tips on how you got it to turn out like that. it looks intentional and not just all randomly scratched up. did you go around it - like twisting the knife inside the sandpaper?
Click to expand...

It really does look good and in the pic it looks similar to a carbon fiber material. I’m advocating for this method over any coating! Excellent work on those H HolyRoller !
 
FLINT77 said:
I like that 117! I might try something like that! any tips on how you got it to turn out like that. it looks intentional and not just all randomly scratched up. did you go around it - like twisting the knife inside the sandpaper?
Click to expand...
Thanks!

So what I did was take an electric file (like I said before, it's literally just a tiny, handheld belt sander and it might be one of the best tools I've ever bought) to it.

So for starters, I slimmed down the sides to give more front-to-back definition. The stock grips are as wide as they are thick. Fills the hand nicely, but I like having more ability to align the edge by feel, alone.

Once I achieved the shape I liked, I realized the heavy grit (probably 60 or 80, the little belts sometimes aren't well marked) left a decent texture. I put the tool into my vise, knife in hand, and ran the grip over the belt lightly to hit all the phenolic surface. I kept the grip perpendicular to the belt to maintain the "grain" of the texture. It's definitely more grippy, yet not rough on the hands.

I was going to replicate the hatching on the 119, but the 117 has much less surface area to work with so this was more like a happy accident.


I mentioned heat stamping as a possibility, and I plan to try it. Another thing I've considered is scalloping with a rotary tool. My biggest worry is how much surface material can be removed before exposing voids or bubbles in the phenolic.
 
While I'm thinking about it, it has been mentioned to add material to improve grip. This is doable. Look up Glock grip modifications.

Some modders have taken to sanding the polymer grip to shape, then applying a thin coat of epoxy resin and rolling it in silicone carbide.

Might be overkill for a knife, but should be pretty robust.

I feel like it'll be better for a handgun, where one's grip rarely needs to change, compared to a knife which will likely see the hand changing position often. But possibly a very solid option, especially if one finds themselves often dealing with slippery conditions.
 
So many grip possibilities. Great work, holyroller. Rough sanding, checkering, golf ball type dimpling with ball burr on Dremel. Traction additives for paint. Rust-oleum makes anti-skid additive for concrete coatings, aluminum oxide, barefoot friendly. All those are permanent. Before you do that, maybe just try 3M Friction tape (Home Depot), or Wilson tennis racquet overgrip (Walmart). Thin, easily removable. Here's a photo with one of each, on Mora knife (sorry not Buck) and Maglite.
 

Attachments

  • 20230608_234430.jpg
    20230608_234430.jpg
    266.9 KB · Views: 6
I've seen where some have used a solder iron or wood burning iron to "stipple" or "dimple" synthetic handles. The results are a pretty dramatic increase in texture. I suppose if you added too much, you could always sand it back down as needed.

My only attempt at improving grippiness was to apply gun grip tape to a Vantage. It adhered very well and added much needed confidence to an otherwise slippery knife.

 
Ok. I messed with the checkering files some. I’m not sure if it was a sucess. IMG_5040.jpegIMG_5039.jpeg
It’s a faster material than wood. The stop cuts don’t really work the same the files don’t track as well. The good news the files did not clog at all. Also the handle feels really good. Some traction but not abrasive. IMG_5034.jpeg
 
The above was my best effort trying to be precise. It really didn’t turn out well. Took about an hour to do the top of the handle. Now this is the easy part, I think it would be impossible to extend those lines around tge handle and keep them parallel. So I attacked the side of the knife not really trying to be precise. IMG_5035.jpeg
Added a lot of grippiness in short order.
 
About the same time.

The checkering definitely gave the best grip.

The good news is these knives are fairly easy to re handle if you really go wrong.
 
I wrap all my phenolic handles in black vinyl electrical tape. One layer. No change in size, better grip.
 
So has anyone done anything similar (checkering, texturizing, etc) to dymalux cocobolo? I would assume it could be done since it is completely resin impregnated?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top