anyone taken apart an AXIS BM (806, specifically)??

allyourblood

allyourblood

Joined
Sep 3, 2003
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i'm aware of Benchmade's BT2 coating, and how easily it comes off. my friend owns an 806d2 (now i do too!) and he took a wire-wheel to it and removed the BT2... that is, as much as he could without taking apart the knife.

i did a search, and read a few posts where people had removed just the blade and then put it back. they made it sound as if they did not need to fiddle with the AXIS lock, and really only had to unscrew and remove the pivot screw, and then just take the blade out.

is this so? can it be done easily? i've opened almost all of my knives but my Benchies, because i don't want to screw up the lock and send it back to BM with my tail between my legs. i only need to take out the blade, nothing else. please offer any pointers or experience you may have.

btw, i ran some searches but just about all of them came up empty (too many results, presumably), and the ones i did find didn't really detail removing just the blade. thanks very much!

abe m.
 
The pivot and lock are separate entities.

take out the torx screw on the pivot - pop the pivot out - and don't lose the washers. thats it.

wire wheel :eek:
 
You don't need to touch the AXIS lock - if you just want to remove the blade - please ignore the above instructions as they will have you taking the entire knife including AXIS mech apart.

To reiterate - YOU DON'T NEED TO DO ANYTHING MORE THAN TAKE ONE PIVOT SCREW OUT! :D
 
sting7777, thanks a million. that's exactly what i wanted to know! you the man.

m_calingo, that's one of the posts i ran across in my search, but didn't want to follow since i prefer not to take the whole thing apart. thanks very much though, i thought about it some more, and tucked it away in my bookmarks for future reference.

oh, and yes -- wire wheel. maybe i misstated it though -- it's just a small dremel attachment. i asked if he made sure not to overheat the blade as he worked, and he claimed it was fine. as for the look, it actually looks really nice with all the BT2 smacked off -- his 806 now has a sort of gun-metal look to it now, if that makes sense. i rather like it. i figure i won't attempt it on mine till i've completely scratched up the coating.

thanks again!


abe m.
 
The pivot is secured with threadlocker. You ought to use threadlocker when you reassemble the pivot, otherwise the blade will develope horizontal play.
 
Will P. said:
The pivot is secured with threadlocker. You ought to use threadlocker when you reassemble the pivot, otherwise the blade will develope horizontal play.
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i always do, yes. that stuff works wonders. thanks.

abe m.
 
Abe,

DON'T take a wire-wheel to the blade!!!.:eek:.:eek:. Get ahold of some 600, 1500, and 2500 wet/dry sandpaper and remove the BT coating using the sandpaper (by hand), starting with 600, and finishing with the 2500...(That's what I polished the clip with.).
 
Not the best pic, but it gives you an idea:

afck-blade1.jpg


Those of you with AFCKs may notice some changes. :D
 
glockman99 said:
Abe,

DON'T take a wire-wheel to the blade!!!.:eek:.:eek:. Get ahold of some 600, 1500, and 2500 wet/dry sandpaper and remove the BT coating using the sandpaper (by hand), starting with 600, and finishing with the 2500...(That's what I polished the clip with.).
Click to expand...
hey, woah woah woah! not ME! my pal from work has done this to his. i should have clarified: i have no intention of performing any high-speed wheeling anything on my knife! i just meant i wouldn't attempt the "removal" itself yet, not the wheel part. :D

i already have some high-grit sandpapers that i purchased for a previous knife project which will be implemented when i decide to remove the BT from my own 806d2. didn't mean to scare you guys! everything's okay. ;)

abe m.
 
Steven: yikes! that's a winner!! i require details as to how you've arrived at this sexy specimen!! please! :eek: (the finish, of course. i won't touch the shape!)

abe m.
 
allyourblood said:
Steven: yikes! that's a winner!! i require details as to how you've arrived at this sexy specimen!! please! :eek: (the finish, of course. i won't touch the shape!)

abe m.
Click to expand...
Simple. Get a buffer, apply some green buffing compound and buff away! :D

Well, it wasn't quite that simple, but close. Most of the BT2 came off with the buffer. Some parts, like the opening hole and around the pivot, required some hand sanding, particularly the flat inside the oval. From then on, it has all been hand polishing. Hours and hours of hand polishing that is, with Puma and Mother's specifically.

Believe it or not, the highest grit of sandpaper to touch that blade was 600 grit. There are some minor spots in the blade, but that is to be expected. They wouldn't have come out without days of hand-sanding.
 
Sweet Steven! That blade shape is very persian looking to me. I like it!! :D :D :D
 
artsig1 said:
Sweet Steven! That blade shape is very persian looking to me. I like it!! :D :D :D
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Yea, the grind is pretty sweet. It is more noticable on the Mini AFCK, but I like the way the AXIS AFCK turned out too.
 
all axis locks (don't know about autos or the 780) work the same way in terms of removing just the blade.
 
Steven Roos, your afck blade looks amazing! I usually see scuff marks when pics are posted.

What brand buffer and buffing compound did you use?
 
nonbox said:
Steven Roos, your afck blade looks amazing! I usually see scuff marks when pics are posted.

What brand buffer and buffing compound did you use?
Click to expand...
It is a Baldor buffer with some mystery green rouge.

For my next trick:
benchmade-logo.jpg


nmf-logo.jpg


:D :D :D
 
what in the world??! is it a liner lock now, what is that, Steven? you're goin' crazy over there!

abe m.:eek::D
 
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