Anyone try using Chris reeve grease on benchmades

cofade2black

cofade2black

Joined
Dec 16, 2009
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Well to make a long story short I got rid of my Chris reeve sebenza and I still have two syringes of the grease used for Chris reeve knives. I put some on my 806 around the washers and tiny bit on the axis lock and I will tell you the knife is smother than butter. Tell me what you guys think
 
I don't put any oil or lube on the locking components of any of my knives. I usually use Benchmade blue lube on the few knives I do lube, but most run dry and they are still smooth. This goes for Benchmade, CRK, Spyderco, Kershaw/ZT, and customs. My traditional pocket knives get some Blue Lube as well.
 
CRK grease is all I use on my BM pivots. I remove the pivot pin and slide the blade and washers out. Then I use my finger and apply a thin layer of the CRK grease on the blade tang (including the area that contacts the Axis bar), which aids in keeping the bronze washers from sliding out of place when I replace the blade. I then slide everything back into place, using a wooden chopstick through the pivot hole to align everything in order to replace the pivot pin. I then tighten down the pivot screw fairly tightly with Loc-Tite, and then work the blade open and closed many times to achieve the desired tension before final pivot adjustment. CRK grease is the longest-lasting pivot lube I've used, and as a result I only have to do this about twice to three times a year at the very most.

Prof.
 
I echo Rev's comment; Once broken in, 99% of the time nothing's needed for any of my knives.
 
I use Break-Free CLP on all my knives. Originally developed for the military for use on firearms but works very well on knives.

It has Teflon in the formula which gives superior lubricity for moving parts and rust inhibitors to help prevent corrosion. It's good stuff and over time it definitely contributes to reducing wear on moving parts, extending their life. I've been using it now for 25+ years on my guns and knives, the majority of which was while on ships or near or on the water.

They recommend a two hour cure for maximum effectives & corrosion protection and with a knife that's easy. Just apply at night and in the morning wipe off the excess. I've found this method works very well. I also apply Break-Free "Collector" to my knives in storage to protect them. It can offer up to five years of corrosion protection.

But as far as lubrication, I strongly recommend Break-Free CLP.
 
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I use CLP on mine as well. My stainless folders come apart about once a year so I can apply it to the pivot and washers. With a D2 blade, I'll also rub some CLP into it periodically to keep it from rusting.

If you're using it a lot in a very abrasive environment (dust, grit, etc), PTFE dry lube is a better choice because it doesn't collect contaminants that will increase wear like oils and greases will.
 
Make sure you guys aren't getting too much of that CLP on your bare skin. It's pretty toxic and accumulates in your system overtime. Once in, it never leaves your system.
 
I have current as well and older MSDS on Break-Free CLP as my job and shop used it frequently in large quantities over many years.

Going back to 1989 a "possible" carcinogen was identified in the formula and it was changed. .

The current formula is pretty harmless except as with all petroleum, especially synthetic petroleum products, repeated use and saturation can cause de-fatting of the tissue so washing your hands after use is the way to go.

Directly from BF's MSDS:

EMERGENCY OVERVIEW
While expected to be non-irritating to skin, eyes and by ingestion, as with all petroleum products, prolonged and repeated contact with
skin could cause irritation and possible dermatitis. The synthetic oils and additives could also be absorbed through abraided skin, but
results of dermal toxicity tests suggest that no acute systemic effects would be experienced by healthy individuals.

SKIN:
Possible slight to moderate redness may occur with extended daily exposure. Product is not classed as a primary skin irritant or corrosive.

So basically don't bathe in it, wash your hands and you'll be fine. Anyone who works as a mechanic would have far more exposure to the possible negative effects from coming in contact with grease.

If you want to read something truly scary, read an MSDS of some of the household cleaner's and you'll never want to touch the stuff again.
 
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I use CRK grease on framelocks like the Skirmish. The Axis knives do far, far better with a light oil/CLP-type product in my experience.
 
Good to know. I recently completed a couple modules of HazMat training, and we read through the "big purple book" and it was an eye opening experience.

pbcg said:
I have current as well and older MSDS on Break-Free CLP as my job and shop used it frequently in large quantities over many years.

Going back to 1989 a "possible" carcinogen was identified in the formula and it was changed. .

The current formula is pretty harmless except as with all petroleum, especially synthetic petroleum products, repeated use and saturation can cause de-fatting of the tissue so washing your hands after use is the way to go.

Directly from BF's MSDS:

EMERGENCY OVERVIEW
While expected to be non-irritating to skin, eyes and by ingestion, as with all petroleum products, prolonged and repeated contact with
skin could cause irritation and possible dermatitis. The synthetic oils and additives could also be absorbed through abraided skin, but
results of dermal toxicity tests suggest that no acute systemic effects would be experienced by healthy individuals.

SKIN:
Possible slight to moderate redness may occur with extended daily exposure. Product is not classed as a primary skin irritant or corrosive.

So basically don't bathe in it, wash your hands and you'll be fine. Anyone who works as a mechanic would have far more exposure to the possible negative effects from coming in contact with grease.

If you want to read something truly scary, read an MSDS of some of the household cleaner's and you'll never want to touch the stuff again.
Click to expand...
 
After break in,I use one drop of nano oil on the pivot area and blow out any excess with an air compressor. Grease and oil are a dust and dirt magnet.
 
RevDevil said:
I don't put any oil or lube on the locking components of any of my knives. I usually use Benchmade blue lube on the few knives I do lube, but most run dry and they are still smooth. This goes for Benchmade, CRK, Spyderco, Kershaw/ZT, and customs. My traditional pocket knives get some Blue Lube as well.
Click to expand...

+1. I have started doing this lately - because I generally wash my knives with warm water after the job to ensure sticky juices are out of the pivot. Once broken in, I doubt if you really require the lube, and I can live with a bit grittiness.
 
I would opt for a clean as possible blade without protective chemicals, as I use my knives for everything including food prep. If the mechanics are gummy after use, a soak and scrub in dishwashing soap, then hot water, followed by a blow dryer on low always makes for happy and sterile tools.
 
Lemme give you another perspective...

My buddy cleaned four deer last week with the full-sized BM BC in D2 that I gave him. A good rinse at his cabin was the best it was going to get afterward, but the CRK grease I applied kept blood from adhering to surfaces around the pivot upon my inspection, cleaning, and re-sharpening for him (I get meat in exchange). I woulda preferred he use a fixed-blade, so I guess I've gotta give him one of those too. :)

Grease in the pivot serves more purpose than being a long-lasting lube. It protects against foreign gunking longer than lubes with more liquidity in my experience in situations where breakdown and thorough cleanings are fewer and farther between, and where D2 is a camp-insisted favorite.

Prof.
 
I'm OCD about keeping my folders clean. I don't take them apart, but I clean them in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with hot water and dawn. Rinse with HOT water, blow them out and then Nano oil the pivot. everything alse gets wiped down with Eezox or FrogLube.
 
I just ordered some 10 weight nano-oil after reading about it for years and years. Really any good compared to CRK grease?
 
richstag said:
I just ordered some 10 weight nano-oil after reading about it for years and years. Really any good compared to CRK grease?
Click to expand...

Depends who you believe. I dont think any "nano diamonds" add anything, it's just hype.

I've stopped being a lube fanatic. Just didn't see any drastic improvement. I do use the CRK lube on pivots, and on ZT style torsion bars, but I've stopped lubing washers.
 
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