Anyone use BudK or TrueSwords?

The Zieg said:
Then again, dont go cutting trees or branches with actual swords meant for combat. These will break, too. Swords are for cutting flesh, not wood. Even battle axes are poor woodcutters.

And I'm not including CS swords in this category. They are generally a pound or more over their historical inspirations to facilitate abuse. They resemble historical swords only visually and handle nothing like them.

Zieg
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True.
I posted about branches because Im not much of a sword fighter and I suspect the majority of the forum members arent either.
Yes, the CS blades are fine for chopping branche and/but as been touched upon, they are heavier than their historical counterparts and differently balanced, I suspect.
Fine for the basement ninjas. Not that there is anything wrong with the Japanese-inspired CS swords. I got a CS blade myself.
 
BladeScout said:
True.
I posted about branches because Im not much of a sword fighter and I suspect the majority of the forum members arent either.
Yes, the CS blades are fine for chopping branche and/but as been touched upon, they are heavier than their historical counterparts and differently balanced, I suspect.
Fine for the basement ninjas. Not that there is anything wrong with the Japanese-inspired swords. I got a CS blade myself.
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I have heard that their machetes are really high qualities
 
slyraven said:
https://www.coldsteel.com/katana-warrior-series.html

This looks like a normal sword to me with exceptional cutting abilities, obviously, its not going to be historically accurate or a genuine samurai sword but I don't get the hate on them here.
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So this actually looks decent. So honestly your never gonna get a "Genuine Nihonto" that was used by a samurai for less than a small fortune. Katanas were accurate but getting a real one from that period is very pricey. So the hate on this sword would probably be for the fact of a few reasons. 1 It is 1060 Carbon and for 600$ you could be getting 1095 or a type of spring steel. 2 You can custom order a sword from a forge at that price. Honestly I do not like the tsuba on it and think it looks cheap but some may like it thats just my opinion. The blade looks a bit thick on it for a katana but maybe thats just me? It is actually a pretty cool katana, but for the price I think you could get a bit better. But hey in the end it is all up to the person who buys it, and some people may really like it :)
 
slyraven said:
https://www.coldsteel.com/katana-warrior-series.html

This looks like a normal sword to me with exceptional cutting abilities, obviously, its not going to be historically accurate or a genuine samurai sword but I don't get the hate on them here.
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Its not so much the swords themselves but the marketing, the videoes and some of the claims of those behind CS, which grates on the nerves of many here.
Whilst I dont froth at the mouth nor are as vehement as some here, the stabbing of meat filled boots and more in that vein can be a tad too much. Just when you thought, youd seen it all, a new CS video to top previous ones comes down the pike.
But then Im not the target audience and the marketing obviously works.
 
Reptaronice1 said:
So this actually looks decent. So honestly your never gonna get a "Genuine Nihonto" that was used by a samurai for less than a small fortune. Katanas were accurate but getting a real one from that period is very pricey. So the hate on this sword would probably be for the fact of a few reasons. 1 It is 1060 Carbon and for 600$ you could be getting 1095 or a type of spring steel. 2 You can custom order a sword from a forge at that price. Honestly I do not like the tsuba on it and think it looks cheap but some may like it thats just my opinion. The blade looks a bit thick on it for a katana but maybe thats just me? It is actually a pretty cool katana, but for the price I think you could get a bit better. But hey in the end it is all up to the person who buys it, and some people may really like it :)
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I dont reccomend 1095 for a sword.
A spring steel would be better or tough tool steel.
8670
L6
80CRV2
5160
S7
CPM 3V*
Z-TUFF*

*Modern steels that can take a serious beating

For 600 I could build something for you out of any of those steels. The modern steels would be shorter due to cost restriction. But 8670 or 80CRV2 would go a long way to an awesome usable sword. Very tough.
 
BladeScout said:
Its not so much the swords themselves but the marketing, the videoes and some of the claims of those behind CS, which grates on the nerves of many here.
Whilst I dont froth at the mouth nor are as vehement as some here, the stabbing of meat filled boots and more in that vein can be a tad too much. Just when you thought, youd seen it all, a new CS video to top previous ones comes down the pike.
But then Im not the target audience and the marketing obviously works.
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I watch forged in fire just to see doug say it will keal so lol I like to see meat get slashed and stuff but alot of swords can do that, and sometimes CS tries to make it seem like their swords r special
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
I dont reccomend 1095 for a sword.
A spring steel would be better or tough tool steel.
8670
L6
80CRV2
5160
S7
CPM 3V*
Z-TUFF*

*Modern steels that can take a serious beating

For 600 I could build something for you out of any of those steels. The modern steels would be shorter due to cost restriction. But 8670 or 80CRV2 would go a long way to an awesome usable sword. Very tough.
Click to expand...
Thoughts on T10? I dont know much about spring steels or tool steels to be honest. mostly about 1045 1060 or 1095. 1095 can be very brittle unless used correctly so a 1095 sword needs a smart wielder. I like 1060 alot. What kinda swords can you make just curious. Is there any way I could send a PM to chat about that?
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
I dont reccomend 1095 for a sword.
A spring steel would be better or tough tool steel.
8670
L6
80CRV2
5160
S7
CPM 3V*
Z-TUFF*

*Modern steels that can take a serious beating

For 600 I could build something for you out of any of those steels. The modern steels would be shorter due to cost restriction. But 8670 or 80CRV2 would go a long way to an awesome usable sword. Very tough.
Click to expand...
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/l6-vs-80crv2-vs-5160-for-katana.1659549/
L6 VS 80crv2 VS 5160 For Katana
what would u reccomend?
 
Reptaronice1 said:
Thoughts on T10? I dont know much about spring steels or tool steels to be honest. mostly about 1045 1060 or 1095. 1095 can be very brittle unless used correctly so a 1095 sword needs a smart wielder. I like 1060 alot. What kinda swords can you make just curious. Is there any way I could send a PM to chat about that?
Click to expand...
Yes you can send me a PM.
My books open in July.
Reptaronice1 said:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/l6-vs-80crv2-vs-5160-for-katana.1659549/
L6 VS 80crv2 VS 5160 For Katana
what would u reccomend?
Click to expand...
I have used 80CRV2 once before with great results. Recently I have used 8670 for several large blades. I love it.

But if you only want those 3 steels. 80CRV2 would likely be less expensive than L6. And have better edge holding than 5160.
I havent used L6 but it's supposed to be great.

*sidenote.
I have made a Katana in 3V. It was pretty sweet but I do not do traditional katanas. I focus on use. And cutting performance.
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
Yes you can send me a PM.
My books open in July.

I have used 80CRV2 once before with great results. Recently I have used 8670 for several large blades. I love it.

But if you only want those 3 steels. 80CRV2 would likely be less expensive than L6. And have better edge holding than 5160.
I havent used L6 but it's supposed to be great.

*sidenote.
I have made a Katana in 3V. It was pretty sweet but I do not do traditional katanas. I focus on use. And cutting performance.
Click to expand...
Do you happen to use etsy or an email I could contact you on about some questions
 
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