Anyone use coconut oil on their knives?

[Ramrodmb]

It usually comes off pretty good when dry. For any pesky crevices (or around/in pins) I use a cheap toothbrush after the wax dries.

 

[Peregrin]

I have used Renaissance Wax for years, but never on stag. How do you apply it? Using it on something smooth like ivory or some stag would not be a problem for me, but how do you do it on the gnarly stag with lots of deep crevices? I would think it would be nearly impossible to remove/buff it where it wouldn't leave a whitish residue behind. Please guide me on the proper way to use it on stag. Thanks.

It usually comes off pretty good when dry. For any pesky crevices (or around/in pins) I use a cheap toothbrush after the wax dries.

I use this medium bristle brush that came in a shoe shine kit years ago. I rub some renwax on the stag, with a paper towel, and buff it with the brush a few minutes later. It seems to work well.

 

[Will Power]

So far after a year plus of wiping knives down with CO I've encountered no rancid smell, no gumming up. It enhances patina on carbon and gives a moisturiser to wood and horn. It also pimps up the look of handles for photography We all find our own way, ultimately

 

[DB_Cruiser]

I use a lot of coconut oil for cooking but never bothered with it on my knives. I had been using Howard's butcher block conditioner, but felt it had too much oil in it for my needs. So I made a paste out of bees wax and mineral oil for my wood handled knives and axe hafts. Just melt 1 oz bees wax in a 1 cup wide mouth mason jar resting in a pan of water over medium heat. Then stir in mineral oil to fill up the jar most of the way. Stir over heat till clear. Once the jar is cool the mix turns into a solid paste. I apply it with a rag and wipe it off after it sits a while. Smells great and leaves a satin finish that's really comfortable to handle.

 

[Horsewright]

I'm big on carwax too like @Rhinoknives1 , as long as its a carnuba wax, I like Mothers and Mequiars. Not fond of Turtle Wax. Obvious not for moving parts such as a pivot but on my knives from tip to stern. Every knife that leaves here usually will have a couple of coats. Really provides a sparkle and excellent protection. The kind of shows I do can be tough on knives, lots of dust and handling. The car waxes work well. I used Renwax years ago but it didn't give the sparkle I was looking for and didn't clean gunk off a knife as well either. It does protect very well though.

 

[spyderg]

I just had to throw out a half bottle of olive oil a couple weeks ago as it went rancid. I’ve used it and veg oil on wood before (I usually use linseed oil unless I don’t want the wood to darken) but never to lube a pivot or on a blade. I rarely have any other types of cooking oil around. I just let my carbon blades develop a patina then wipe clean after use. For pivots I usually use fishing reel lube. I don’t worry about it getting on food as you only need a tiny amount in there and clean off any excess that might seep out.

 

[Ted01]

For the pivot, lately I've been using chainsaw oil, specifically Stihl HP Ultra 2-cycle engine oil, from the local hardware store. One of the custom knifemakers suggested it for his CPM-154 knives. It says "no significant health hazards identified", but also it does not specifically say it's non-toxic.

 

[80sskater]

I've I've been using it the last 4 years on my Mora and pocket knives and my wingman. The sticky residue you get left over from cutting boxes the coconut oil cleans off pretty good plus I know it's safe to eat if I cut into a fruit instead of something like motor oil I've used mineral oil in the past but find coconut oil better in my opinion

 

[80sskater]

So far after a year plus of wiping knives down with CO I've encountered no rancid smell, no gumming up. It enhances patina on carbon and gives a moisturiser to wood and horn. It also pimps up the look of handles for photography We all find our own way, ultimately

I used it on my cold steel Trail Hawk to Stain the handle