Anyone use WD40 on their traditional knives?

Camillus

Camillus

Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
2,119
I was interested to read that GEC had recommended someone using WD40 as a way of restoring the handle on an abalone #38 and was interested if it is used or recomended by others.

WD40 has a reputation for being more of a solvent than a lubricant, and people are frequently scolded in online forums for suggesting it be used as a lubricant. For example, everyone decries its use on the working parts of a fishing reel in favour of more specialized lubricants. Like many others, I have stayed away from using it on knives due to that aggressive feedback.

However, while that online opinion may be true, it's also one of the most commonly used products for protecting metals around the home, and seems to protect them very well. Note -this is a protectant, not as a lubricant - I am not talking about moving parts. Importantly, a spray can is cheap and handy and quick to use - which may explain why it gets results - simply because it is there.

I don't think WD40 has an adverse effect on handles made of wood etc, although it doesn't offer the same enhancements that an oil does to wood.

So what do people think?
 
I use it all the time when cleaning dirty knives that I buy from auction, to force out the soap and water. I also use it to clean adhesive and sap off of my blades. But I don’t leave the WD-40 on the blades.
 
i use it all the time when metal things are wet that i don't want to rust, then wipe it down. However mostly I use it as a cleaner for stainless steel things of all sorts (knives, bbq put surfaces (not inside), metal propane patio heaters, my fire pit, nuts n bolts, ect..)

I don't use it on certain plastics as it can accelerate them breaking down like rubber/silicone O rings. I do slather on dirty RC car/heli's on both metal and plastic parts after running in the rain and mud. Even if it does harm those plastic parts they're more likely to break from using them before WD-40 contributes to anything.
 
I use it to flush out most brand new knives and recent purchases. It is a penatrant solvent, so therefore less viscous than (most) lubricants. I would also use it to disperse water if necessary. After flushing with WD40, I flush with mineral oil. My experience has been that after a few days, the residual WD40 displaces (breaks down?) the mineral oil and I need to flush the knife again with oil.
 
It is great for removing tape residue from blades. Just a little bit on the blade and rub it off with your fingertips, then wash off with soap and water and dry. It is not a food-safe lubricant.
 
New knife, out comes a piece of cardboard and the blue can with the red straw...great stuff for flushing the joints of a new folder. Compressed air follows and a few drops of fresh mineral oil...all done.
 
WD40 (Water Dispersant attempt no.40) - has a ton o' uses, way way outside of what many people think - just Google it and see

Only time I ever use it on knives is old folders that need freeing up, once done, I use other oils
 
Camillus said:
I was interested to read that GEC had recommended someone using WD40 as a way of restoring the handle on an abalone #38 and was interested if it is used or recomended by others.

WD40 has a reputation for being more of a solvent than a lubricant, and people are frequently scolded in online forums for suggesting it be used as a lubricant. For example, everyone decries its use on the working parts of a fishing reel in favour of more specialized lubricants. Like many others, I have stayed away from using it on knives due to that aggressive feedback.

However, while that online opinion may be true, it's also one of the most commonly used products for protecting metals around the home, and seems to protect them very well. Note -this is a protectant, not as a lubricant - I am not talking about moving parts. Importantly, a spray can is cheap and handy and quick to use - which may explain why it gets results - simply because it is there.

I don't think WD40 has an adverse effect on handles made of wood etc, although it doesn't offer the same enhancements that an oil does to wood.

So what do people think?
Click to expand...

Well I was the one to whom GEC (specifically Bill Howard through Chris Tucker) recommended using WD-40. I do know that they've said on the tour that what they spray the knives with before final inspection is basically WD-40. I was recommended WD-40 because my LVS Abalone #38 Rendezvous Special developed pitting, bubbling, splitting, etc. in the acrylic that covers the abalone and Bill suggested that it could be from some kind of additive or chemical in the mineral oil I use to maintain my knives. Now I use mineral oil because Charlie told me about how he maintains his knives and uses mineral oil, so it is a little perplexing to me. I have been really REALLY happy with how mineral oil has worked for me. It seems to work crud out of joints, prevent rust, smooth pivots, and it's food safe and shouldn't go rancid. On the other hand, I heard that WD-40 has mineral oil in it, plus it's not food safe and not necessarily a lubricant. So it's confusing. I don't have any WD-40, but I know I won't be putting any mineral oil on my acrylic covers anymore if that's what Bill thinks caused the degradation to my #38.
 
I've used it for decades as a lube and protectant on guns and knives.
It is pretty much all I use on my pocket knives anymore.

The info below is from Wikipedia.

Function[edit]
The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile viscous oil which remains on the surface to which it is applied, giving lubrication and protection from moisture.[11] This oil is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to make a low viscosity fluid which can be aerosolized to penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving behind the oil. A propellant (originally a low-molecular-weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) creates pressure in the can to force the liquid through the can's nozzle before evaporating.[11]

Its properties make it useful in both domestic and commercial settings. Typical uses for WD-40 include removing dirt and extricating jammed screws and bolts. It can also be used to loosen stubborn zippers and displace moisture.[citation needed]

Due to its low viscosity, WD-40 is not always a suitable oil for certain tasks. Applications that require higher viscosity oils may use motor oils. Those requiring a mid-range oil could use honing oil.[12]

Formulation[edit]
WD-40's formula is a trade secret (and therefore may also have varied). To avoid disclosing its composition, the product was not patented in 1953, and the window of opportunity for patenting it has long since closed.[7]WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

  • 50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". The manufacturer's website claims this ratio in the current formulation cannot accurately be described as Stoddard solvent, a similar mixture of hydrocarbons.[13]
  • <25% petroleum base oil. Presumably a mineral oil or light lubricating oil.
  • 12–18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon. Reduces the liquid's viscosity so that it can be used in aerosols. The hydrocarbon evaporates during application.
  • 2–3% carbon dioxide. A propellant which is now used instead of the original liquefied petroleum gas to reduce WD-40's flammability.
  • <10% inert ingredients.


In 2009, Wired published an article with the results of gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy tests on WD-40, showing that the principal components were C9 to C14 alkanes and mineral oil.[14]
 
I wonder if it would turn wood scales darker? My new knives get soap and water.. I would fear it penetrating where I don't want it penetrating...like between wood scales and the liners.
 
I too use WD-40 for cleaning and flushing joints. I also use Tri-Flow, mostly because I have a couple gallons of it.
For lube I have been using Finish Line Dry lube lately.
You can find Tri-Flow and the Finish Line Dry at your local bicycle shop in the chain lube section.
 
Last edited:
I use it to flush and lube the joint. I generally keep it off the blade.

I have also used CLP and beeswax.

I knew and old gunsmith that wipe everything with wd40 inckuding wood stocks on fine rifles.

Not very "durable" or persistent lube, but plenty good for a slip joint.
 
ccsavage said:
I wonder if it would turn wood scales darker? My new knives get soap and water.. I would fear it penetrating where I don't want it penetrating...like between wood scales and the liners.
Click to expand...

While cleaning my knives the other day I accidently sprayed some WD40 on a new leather sheath that hadn't been oiled. 'That's it' I thought, 'that sheath will have a stain that will mean I have to oil the whole thing'. But minutes later, it evaporated leaving the leather color unchanged
 
Last edited:
Camillus said:
While cleaning my knives the other day I accidently sprayed some WD40 on a new leather sheath that hadn't been oiled. 'That's it' I thought, 'that sheath will have a stain that will mean I have to oil the while thing'. But minutes later, it evaporated leaving the leather color unchanged
Click to expand...
That is interesting. Might have to try it on a beater knife and see.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top