Anyone using the Sharpmaker diamond rods?

I have them, and I use them on all of my knives. They rock. :D

But I agree that they're largely unnecessary. However, as inexpensive as they are, you might as well have them. :thumbup:
 
matt321 said:
Good question about the UF's. I have em. They're cool for hobby sharpeners, but not needed on a practical basis.
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By "practical basis" do you mean they don't do anything more for the knife? I can get mine shaving sharp with an 850 grit ceramic setup, but I'd love to smooth out the scratch pattern even more, if that's possible.
 
Josh K said:
By "practical basis" do you mean they don't do anything more for the knife? I can get mine shaving sharp with an 850 grit ceramic setup, but I'd love to smooth out the scratch pattern even more, if that's possible.
Click to expand...

It can be done many ways...10000 grit and 12000 grit wet/dry paper found at automotive paint supply stores, padded fingernail files (usually 1"X8") at 5000, 7500, and 10000 grit from beauty supply stores, or green and white compound on a piece of leather followed by red jeweler's rouge.

Any of these will put a mirror finish on the edge. :thumbup:
 
SPXTrader said:
It can be done many ways...10000 grit and 12000 grit wet/dry paper found at automotive paint supply stores, padded fingernail files (usually 1"X8") at 5000, 7500, and 10000 grit from beauty supply stores, or green and white compound on a piece of leather followed by red jeweler's rouge.

Any of these will put a mirror finish on the edge. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Ah. I guess I'll have to start practicing my freehand sharpening again. :)
 
The paper can be cut and wrapped around your sharpmaker rods. Leave about a half-inch extra on each side, and hold them in place with small binder clips. Use very light edge trailing strokes.
 
Josh K said:
By "practical basis" do you mean they don't do anything more for the knife? I can get mine shaving sharp with an 850 grit ceramic setup, but I'd love to smooth out the scratch pattern even more, if that's possible.
Click to expand...

Maybe it's just me, but it is sometimes difficult to improve the edge with the UF's due to burring issues passed on from the other rods. I mean the UF's fail to improve the edge because you can't get a clean, burr free intersection to use them on. Sure, you can refine the scratch pattern with the UF's, but it doesn't automatically make the blade sharper cuz the geometry at the intersection is not clean. :confused: I don't know for sure, but I believe the ceramics are prone to this. So before you can guaranty a better edge off the UF's you must find away to get an imaculate edge off the other rods.

By the way what is the 850 grit ceramic setup you referred to?
 
matt321 said:
Maybe it's just me, but it is sometimes difficult to improve the edge with the UF's due to burring issues passed on from the other rods. I mean the UF's fail to improve the edge because you can't get a clean, burr free intersection to use them on. Sure, you can refine the scratch pattern with the UF's, but it doesn't automatically make the blade sharper cuz the geometry at the intersection is not clean. :confused: I don't know for sure, but I believe the ceramics are prone to this. So before you can guaranty a better edge off the UF's you must find away to get an imaculate edge off the other rods.

By the way what is the 850 grit ceramic setup you referred to?
Click to expand...

http://www.rei.com/product/738633

I was too cheap to get a sharpmaker, but I'm working on it. :) This setup allows me to quickly set the edge and a dull knife, and then work it over the diamond's, then ceramic. The only think I like better about this system then the sharpmaker, is the rounded (tear drop shaped) rods. I like sharpening on the rounds more then the flats. Not sure why, but when I sharpen on the flats it always seems to only hit one corner or the other, instead of a consistent stroke down the middle.
 
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