Anyone want to help a noob out?

[DiverTexas]

Not exactly a noob at working with knives, but I have a first time project I could use some guidance on.
I purchased a blade with file work that is not only on the blade, but continues almost all the way down the tang towards the butt of the handle.
My question is would you epoxy fill the file work on the handle portion of the knife or how would you go about keeping the epoxy off the file work when you do the final setting of the scales.
Here is the blade I'm referring to.
Thanks for any input you might have.

 

[silver_pilate]

I think it would be very difficult to prevent epoxy from setting up in the file work. I would say use something like a black vulcanized spacer between the scale and tang, and then dye your epoxy black and completely fill the file work. After it is all set up, you can carefully grind/sand down to the spine of the tang to expose the file work. Something like this, except this knife doesn't have spacers and the black epoxy blends well with the dark banding in the cocobollo:

The above knife was made by Matthew Bailey. Hope you don't mind me using your work as an example, Matt.

--nathan

 

[DiverTexas]

Thanks for the input, I was thinking along those lines as well.
I may have to stick with a clear epoxy to fill it since I am planning on using Maple for the scales, or add the spacer with an appropriate color.
This is the handle material I am planning on using.

 

[J. Doyle]

Black epoxy would still look good on that light maple. Really good in fact. I don't think I would use clear epoxy though. You might be able to see the blemishes in the unpolished low spots of the filework. I don't think it would look very good clear. Just my opinion. It's your knife do whatever you like.:thumbup:

 

[silver_pilate]

I agree. Clear tends to be too uneven in appearance. You'll have cloudiness in areas and it just won't look consistent. I'd say the black epoxy would look great with the maple, especially if you used a thin black liner/spacer.

--nathan

 

[DiverTexas]

Thanks guys, I think I'll go with the black liner and epoxy after all.

Next noob question, am I allowed to post in the knives for sale area as a non paid member?
I'm sure this is addressed somewhere, I just haven't found it yet.

 

[panch0]

Thanks guys, I think I'll go with the black liner and epoxy after all.

Next noob question, am I allowed to post in the knives for sale area as a non paid member?
I'm sure this is addressed somewhere, I just haven't found it yet.

Nope, You need a knifemakers membership.

 

[wordsmith]

I sometimes leave the decarb in the filework and then use clear epoxy for a nearly black appearance. Usually works ok since I like to leave the decarb in on the blade too for contrast, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to get some black epoxy dye next time.

 

[Tommegow]

Is using the sawdust from your maple mixed with the epoxy an option? I have used that technique for filling in small areas.It would keep it light colored.

 

[J. Doyle]

Is using the sawdust from your maple mixed with the epoxy an option? I have used that technique for filling in small areas.It would keep it light colored.

Works great for filling small areas but I have a feeling in larger volumes like this it would look horrible. Just a hunch.

 

[SBuzek]

IMHO I would turn that block of maple around and use all those great looking eyes.
And black colored epoxy.
Stan