Anyone weld up there KMG Clone and then........

Dixieblade57 · Oct 12, 2009

Has anyone ever welded up a KMG clone and then regretted it? Maybe I am just lazy but I don't see all that drilling taping and bolting. It also looks for a good case scenario for getting off, and slightly is all it will take with all the bolts. One drill bit walking will throw it all off! Not to mention the fact it will all go together about three times as fast.

If I take my time and clamp everything in place, making sure it is all square and perpendicular, and don't overheat I do not see warpage being a problem with all the 3/4" steel. After all if it works and I have no doubt it will. I have absolutely not intention of every taking it apart again. Of course the bearing supports and the tension arm will need to be drilled and taped, as well as some other things that might wear!

I will be welding with my AC/ DC arc or stick welder, as I never was taught with mig or tig and don't have one either. Any suggestions on settings and rod by some of you that do that sort of thing all the time.

SteelSlaver · Oct 12, 2009

Use 3/32 7018 and set it up to about 100 on an ac machine and make a few passes on some scrap of about the same thickness. If it is to humped up, go hotter. If you get undercut without pointing your arc at the side of the weld, go lower.

69_knives · Oct 12, 2009

Tack welds are always good and easily cut and redone if need be.

7018 is good stuff, 6011 will also work well if that's all you have, burns deep for good penetration but it's quite a bit messier.

SBuzek · Oct 12, 2009

I helped build a NWG and we welded it all, very happy with the results.7018 rods are the way to go.
Stan

Dixieblade57 · Oct 12, 2009

Thanks for the info evrybody, it's about what I expected1

NickWheeler · Oct 13, 2009

Joint prep is very important.

Weld progression is very important.

I don't care how thick it is, steel can and will warp with heat. If you know how to compensate, then you're fine... but if you don't...

Warpage will screw everything up a lot quicker than your one bolt hole being off.

SteelSlaver · Oct 13, 2009

What Nick says is very true. If I was to place 2 pieces of plate at 90 degrees and only weld one side I would probably end up at about 80. You need to figure out how to use welds to counteract each other. Even a tack can pull stuff out of line. Make your first tack, adjust your piece then make an opposing tack. Make one weld then the other as quickly as possible. If all the welds on a piece of metal are on one side it will start to curve. I have seen multiple welds one one side of some big piping cause it to arc.

This wouldn't stop me from welding up a grrinder.. Just remember weld shrinks and pulls. I have made 2 reciever tubes for 1 1/2" stock on grinders by welding them from bar stock. I knew it would happen and the first one still came out too tight after the first passes. I had to cut it apart and add some shims to the fitup before rewelding it. Planning your welds and constant checking on your results is the secret here. Good welds are better than big welds.

Edro20 · Oct 13, 2009

ib2v4u said:
You need to figure out how to use welds to counteract each other.

Exactly right. I always try and bevel edges and use the biggest, strongest clamp I can get to hold things in place even when just tack welding. Weld that sucker together and take some pics and post them. You'll do fine.:thumbup: