Anything before heat treat and need heat treat help?

J

Justin Presson

Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
891


I feel like I'm finally done with this knife pre HT, this is my first knife. Anything else I need to do before heat treat?

Also would anyone in the Kansas City area be willing to heat treat this for me and let me see how it's done? If not I understand, then what would be my best options of who to send it to for HT.

Thanks in advance for all the help, this site has been a huge help!

Justin
 
Yes, it looks very good especially for your first. In fact it could be 100th and it still will look good. Frank
 
Is it worth me trying to just build a small forge and do it myself? I have seen some on YouTube using a bernzomatic and kaowool or fire bricks, can it be done reasonably or would it be waste?
 
I can H/T it for you. If you're interested, send me an email or call me and I'll give you the details.
 
May be an optical illusion but is your pin spacing even? Not sure where you scale is ending but may need to move the first pin closer to the blade and then re-center the mid pin.
 
About half way point of the finger grove is where my handle is going to start, I was planning on to just use the front and back pin holes. Unless I need 3?
 
Justin, I can get that treated for you and I live in the KC area, Overland Park to be exact. I just registered and couldn't figure out the PM yet, but let me know if I can help.
 
Regular users can't PM.

If you are taking off that little material, staying at 220 should get the job done on clean belts. If you are hand sanding, may wanna stroke it with the file a bit, then clean it up. There isn't much risk staying that thick pre-HT, there is risk if going too thin however. If you aren't having it professionally done, I'd stay where you are at.

Warping occurs due to uneven grinding or stress in the steel. Check for evenness prior to HT as it is critical. And fractures on a thin edge occur from too quick a quench, not necessarily just the thinness. But thinness is an attribute of quenching speed, therefore staying a little thick doesn't hurt. If you have done it enough, you starg to get a feel for how thin in what steel will quench in what quenchant at what temp etc... Hence why the pro's rarely pooch a blade.

It is a nice knife design. Very well done so far, it should prove to be a good useable blade. And I take from the username you are a fellow bone huntin critter gitter! The blade you have there should be good for dressing, skinning out, working the chest and even light quartering. Nice.

Cheers!
-Eric
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
Regular users can't PM.

If you are taking off that little material, staying at 220 should get the job done on clean belts. If you are hand sanding, may wanna stroke it with the file a bit, then clean it up. There isn't much risk staying that thick pre-HT, there is risk if going too thin however. If you aren't having it professionally done, I'd stay where you are at.

Warping occurs due to uneven grinding or stress in the steel. Check for evenness prior to HT as it is critical. And fractures on a thin edge occur from too quick a quench, not necessarily just the thinness. But thinness is an attribute of quenching speed, therefore staying a little thick doesn't hurt. If you have done it enough, you starg to get a feel for how thin in what steel will quench in what quenchant at what temp etc... Hence why the pro's rarely pooch a blade.

It is a nice knife design. Very well done so far, it should prove to be a good useable blade. And I take from the username you are a fellow bone huntin critter gitter! The blade you have there should be good for dressing, skinning out, working the chest and even light quartering. Nice.

Cheers!
-Eric
Click to expand...

Thanks Eric. You guessed it I love to hunt and I plan on using this knife to do just what you said.

Also like I was warned this dang knife making is addicting and I have yet to finish my first.
 
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