Anything better than Silky Nata Hatchet?

I've never been a huge hatchet fan. Anything smaller than a forester's axe and I'm going to go for a machete or clearing axe (or Viking machete as I call them), before I look at a hatchet. I know some people swear by hatchets, but when I see them it's like they're going for: "I want something that looks like an axe, still weighs a lot, but isn't very useful for much more than splitting kindling".

 
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HJA said:
Do you feel this was due to the shape of the handle, the handle, or both?
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Probably both. The round handle allows it to twist but the main thing is the offset of the blade allows it to twist easier. Almost always when chopping laterally. I guess it's probably like an axe bit that is unpolled vs polled. Chopping vertically, no problems. But, since I use choppers lot for clearing trails, cutting at all angles is really common to clear downed branches, vines, etc.

A lot of people like kukri's, so this is a personal taste thing, IMO. I just feel like I have more control with thicker machetes/parangs over a kukri.
 
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Malty Falcon said:
Perhaps this is sacreligious on a Blade Forum, but here it goes....

If you are really cutting a lot of soft pine boughs, why not use a saw? As I get older and broken, I find the hacking at branches, zombies, is tiring and painful. Simple sawing with a new folding saw gets it done with less stress on my body.
Now if you are getting your anger/stress out by chopping, then keep it up! But I want to save my vigorous exertion for the bedroom and the fishing boat, not tree limbs.
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He addresses this point regarding weaker branches that do not catch the saw blade. He is a pretty acid saw user but is expanding his repertoire.

Zieg
 
Malty Falcon said:
Perhaps this is sacreligious on a Blade Forum, but here it goes....

If you are really cutting a lot of soft pine boughs, why not use a saw? As I get older and broken, I find the hacking at branches, zombies, is tiring and painful. Simple sawing with a new folding saw gets it done with less stress on my body.
Now if you are getting your anger/stress out by chopping, then keep it up! But I want to save my vigorous exertion for the bedroom and the fishing boat, not tree limbs.
Click to expand...

This is primarily a speed issue which turns into a calorie issue. Using a saw for branches sub-1inch that can’t be broken with hand strength requires a cutting tool. Using an axe is overkill and needs more calories long-term, both in weight to carry and cost per swing. Using a saw requires more time. More strokes mean I'm standing longer, and moving my arms for a longer period of time. Might be net calorie neutral, but the annoyance is worth looking for alternatives. I believe I'll save calories by moving away from an axe, and save time by using the saw less. Could be wrong about the whole theory, but I won't know until it's been tested. And if testing requires me buying more knives then it's a sacrifice I'm willing to make. Thought long and hard (two seconds) about this sacrifice, and I'll begrudgingly (gleefully) put in the work (fun).


The Zieg said:
He addresses this point regarding weaker branches that do not catch the saw blade. He is a pretty acid saw user but is expanding his repertoire.

Zieg
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Acid?
 
NeedItCheaper said:
Acid?
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Avid… I wondered about that one for a minute too. :)

…and I think you’re correct about de-limbing. The other advantage of a knife blade over a hatchet for this task is that the longer edge makes aiming much easier and you can clear more small branches per pass with a knife…
 
NeedItCheaper said:
This is primarily a speed issue which turns into a calorie issue. Using a saw for branches sub-1inch that can’t be broken with hand strength requires a cutting tool. Using an axe is overkill and needs more calories long-term, both in weight to carry and cost per swing. Using a saw requires more time. More strokes mean I'm standing longer, and moving my arms for a longer period of time. Might be net calorie neutral, but the annoyance is worth looking for alternatives. I believe I'll save calories by moving away from an axe, and save time by using the saw less. Could be wrong about the whole theory, but I won't know until it's been tested. And if testing requires me buying more knives then it's a sacrifice I'm willing to make. Thought long and hard (two seconds) about this sacrifice, and I'll begrudgingly (gleefully) put in the work (fun).



Acid?
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I agree with the argument N NeedItCheaper . You outline it pretty well. And yes, we can chalk that "acid" up to autocorrect. 😸 AVID, of course I meant AVID!!

Zieg
 
GAGL said:
Yes,i bought a replacement blade for a Gomtaro 300 and wrapped the handle with paracord,no handle underneath. Works really well and weighs 80gr/2.8oz.
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Question, I'm thinking of using this handless method on the Gomtaro (Root Cutting) 240mm Large Teeth. What is the exact weight of the 300mm with sheath and paracord? AND, I thought you posted about this in another thread, but couldn't find mention of the sheath used. What is your sheath?

Please & Thank you :)
 
NeedItCheaper said:
Question, I'm thinking of using this handless method on the Gomtaro (Root Cutting) 240mm Large Teeth. What is the exact weight of the 300mm with sheath and paracord? AND, I thought you posted about this in another thread, but couldn't find mention of the sheath used. What is your sheath?

Please & Thank you :)
Click to expand...

hey

i made the sheath fron the plastic packaging it comes in.

KSI310324_01_silky-gomtaro-ksi310324-01.jpeg.jpg

i just cut off all the cardboard and then wrapped it with duct tape.

The saw with paracord weighs 80g/2.8oz.

Sheath weighs 30g/1.05oz but can be made lighter.

I saw people online they made the 240mm version with paracord and sheath and it weighed 2.64oz or 70grams
 
HJA said:
Do you feel this was due to the shape of the handle, the blade, or both?
Click to expand...
I have three Nepalese Khukri. Two HI, and one no name.
One of the HI has a handle that is fat and a bit large and roundish. I need to flatten the sides a bit towards the front of the handle.

I've had rolling issues with Bowie's too, including a Cold Steel Trailmaster. The rolling in the cut got worse as the rubber handle aged and the kraton softened.

The other HI has a nice ovoid thinner handle.

The no name Khukri, I had to take a grinder to to make it some what more usable.

IQcChrq.jpeg


I do like a good khukri.

I've tried a few.

Even "expensive" versions like Busse.

0tRl540.jpeg


Busse FBMLE is one I really miss.

FcQ51gJ.jpeg




I miss the Basic 11 too. Light, and chopped well for extended sessions.
The rubber Busse and Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard use is by far my favorite of any rubber handle material I've ever used. Solid, less give, still absorbs shock. Never twisted, or got loose, or sticky or broke down.

The Basic 11 ha dle was a bit on the smaller size for my 2xl hands, but their slightly bigger versions of the same handle are even better.

jvOdQnq.jpeg


My saw is a Silky Zubat. (Not sure I ever took a pic of it)

I'd likely pair it up with the larger HI khukri if I had to pick a pair. The horn handled skinny HI is great for lighter vegetation. And the Silky is for sawing for thicker stuff.

0hPDUEW.jpeg
 
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