Anything I'm Missing Before I Make A Kiridashi

[I.N.F.K]

So I finished my first knife (sheath and all) around a month ago, and now I want to make something smaller that I can EDC when I feel like it. Basically I just want to make sure that I get everything right before I muck it up when I get to the grinder. Right now I plan on making it out of 1/4" 5160 spring steel, chisel ground, and the grind should be on the side as shown in the picture correct? The picture below isn't exactly to scale but close, I'll make a wood blank so I can size right.

If it wouldn't be too much trouble let me know If I'm doing something wrong

 

[I.N.F.K]

I guess I should mention that my tools are bench grinder, angle grinder, dremel, sand paper, and an assortment of files. I plan on free handing the with the file when it comes to putting the edge on the blade. Also are there any places that would even temper this for me, I need to remember not to file it down to a edge and leave 1mm

 

[Andy Lewis]

You have a left-hand chisel grind shown here - so I'm assuming you're a southpaw.

When you make your 3D pattern I bet you'll find it too narrow at the neck for the tool length. It will probably work great for a very specific application but still not be your desired EDC.

Accommodating a wide range of grips and leverage points is key in smaller EDC knives. Kiridashis; near straight and slight proximal tapers seem to win over most folks and give you longer tool life than what you show. I usually forge a very slight bow into them so you are left with < 0.50" of back plane to flatten. And 25 to 35° inclusive on the bevel with no secondary.

Still looks cool though. Carry on.:thumbup:

 

[daizee]

for 1/4" thick stock I think you'll want a much higher grind.
Also, a single-side-ground knife that's only sharped on the bevel side tends to catch on any sheath, so it can be tricky to wrap it up safely.
Good luck! Looks like a great profile.

 

[I.N.F.K]

You have a left-hand chisel grind shown here - so I'm assuming you're a southpaw.

When you make your 3D pattern I bet you'll find it too narrow at the neck for the tool length. It will probably work great for a very specific application but still not be your desired EDC.

Accommodating a wide range of grips and leverage points is key in smaller EDC knives. Kiridashis; near straight and slight proximal tapers seem to win over most folks and give you longer tool life than what you show. I usually forge a very slight bow into them so you are left with < 0.50" of back plane to flatten. And 25 to 35° inclusive on the bevel with no secondary.

Still looks cool though. Carry on.:thumbup:

I need to put the bevel on the other side then, I'm right handed. So I think maybe a I need to make a shallower bow then, because I love that bulb shape in the back and want to try to leave it.

Trying to keep it compact so it doesn't extend the whole reach of my palm by adding a scale to the back to give me something to grab on to. I also think it makes stand out, doing a straight rectangular kiridashi would be boring

 

[I.N.F.K]

for 1/4" thick stock I think you'll want a much higher grind.
Also, a single-side-ground knife that's only sharped on the bevel side tends to catch on any sheath, so it can be tricky to wrap it up safely.
Good luck! Looks like a great profile.

yea the grind is only their for show, and I plan on making a wood sheath. I seem to be a lot better at wood then leather