Apex Ultra Optimum Heat Treat?

S

shqxk

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Mar 26, 2012
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This steel has pretty broad range of austenitizing so I wonder what would be the optimum route to get the best toughness at high HRC such as 67HRC?
1. Using middle range austenitizing and tempering in the 300-350F range?
2. Use the upper austenitizing and tempering around 400-425F?
 
I would think the lowest Austenizing temp you can get away with for a given hardness would be your best bet. Especially with no cold treatment. Even though it's a fairly low alloy steel. Plus it should theoretically help keep grain size smaller, though idk how big the difference would actually be.
 
True. I guess without knowing what they did before you can't really give any real recommendation.
 
DeadboxHero said:
S shqxk Blankblank Blankblank

The austenitizing temperature has different effects depending on microstructure prior to austenitizing.
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Then what would be the optimal structure and optimal austenitizing temperature?

I did a test knife by normalizing at around 1700F then 1425F air cool then 1425F quenched and 1200F tempering for an hour. Austenitizing at 1550F, straight to a freezer for half an hour and it still scratched glass after 350F tempering. Still haven't do an actual HRC test tho but guesing it should be well over 65HRC... The result is already good enough for me but I guess there must be an optimal way to achieved the best balance of hardness/toughness.
 
I'm trying to heat treat with gas forge. Taking to non magnetic tech quench is not working. Its softer than when I received to bar.
 
Bill niles said:
I'm trying to heat treat with gas forge. Taking to non magnetic tech quench is not working. Its softer than when I received to bar.
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Hm. Maybe try again? You should have a pearlitic microstructure (I would think). Which would be more ideal for a forge ht than a coarse spherodized microstructure. So you might get a better response now. Also maybe heat to just above non magnetic if it doesn't work again.
 
Bill niles said:
I'm trying to heat treat with gas forge. Taking to non magnetic tech quench is not working. Its softer than when I received to bar.
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How are you preparing the steel prior to heating to non-magnetic? How are you testing the hardness after quenching?
 
Larrin said:
How are you preparing the steel prior to heating to non-magnetic? How are you testing the hardness after quenching?
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I followed the heat treat according to pops. This morning I went back out and tried again. Took it to just above non magnetic. Heated a water quench to 90 degrees and held my breath. Did the quench, not having a hardness tester I would have to say it's harder than hell. No cracks. Just freaking hard.
 
Bill niles said:
I followed the heat treat according to pops. This morning I went back out and tried again. Took it to just above non magnetic. Heated a water quench to 90 degrees and held my breath. Did the quench, not having a hardness tester I would have to say it's harder than hell. No cracks. Just freaking hard.
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The heat treating information on the Pops website does not say to heat to nonmagnetic and quench so I don’t know which part of it you were following.
 
No it doesn't. But just using a color chart and magnet I got pretty close. I dont have a bunch of fancy equipment so I use what I got and research. It like making springs for folders. After heat treat put spring in a container pour kerosene or diesel to just cover it, then lite it up. Buy the time the fuel has burn off the steel has tempered to spring. I'm too old buy alot of fancy equipment. I use what I got and do alot of reading. Sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats you. Thanks for your help.
Bill
 
Are you trying to say I shouldn't buy this product, and leave it for those with more experience. But how would I learn. I'm 70 years old and time is running out.
 
I think you just didn't have the right starting microstructure the first time for doing it in a forge with a magnet. Next time you do one with apex ultra. Try going directly from a normalized (or thermal cycled state), I haven't seen what the recommendations for apex ultra on pops is, since I don't have any yet, but that's generally what seems best for similar steels. it should allow for you to (generally) quench right at or near magnetic.
 
Blankblank said:
I think you just didn't have the right starting microstructure the first time for doing it in a forge with a magnet. Next time you do one with apex ultra. Try going directly from a normalized (or thermal cycled state), I haven't seen what the recommendations for apex ultra on pops is, since I don't have any yet, but that's generally what seems best for similar steels. it should allow for you to (generally) quench right at or near magnetic.
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Thank you I'll try that. That's normally what I do. But the heat gets to me and I have to head for the a/c.
 
DevinT said:
Temperature control is necessary for optimum heat treating.

Hoss
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I agree 100%. But with out the proper equipment I kinda fly by the seat of my pants. I don't sell the knives I make, I give them to friends, kitchen knives in the matsumoto style. It's a hobby not a job. Something to enjoy. And 0 complaints.
 
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