Application to Junior Woodchucks Club

My 25" Sirupati handle. The pic doesn't do it justice. This is beautiful wood.
Steve
 
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Application, ooooh boy! ...I'll tell Pappa Woodchuck and gather the clan.
 
Anyone have experience modifying a handle? The handle on my 25" seripati is too big, and one of the rings scratches my finger. I want to file it down to size then refinish it.
Those are cool looking handles Ferguson, is it linseed oil? Did you use any stain?
 
Originally posted by Abear
Those are cool looking handles Ferguson, is it linseed oil? Did you use any stain?
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I used mineral spirits and a toothbrush to remove the rouge. (gee it sure tastes funny now:) ) Then I started sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. When down to bare wood, I moved to 320 grit, then 400,600,800,1000 grit, always sanding with the grain. Wrapped sandpaper around a dull knife to sand the grooves, being careful not to enlarge them. I had wrapped masking tape around the brass bolster to protect it from scratches. Then I applied many coats of Tru-Oil with my finger. Tru-oil is available in many sporting goods sections where they sell the gun supplies. I got mine at Wal-Mart. According to the label it is a linseed oil based product. Allowed each coat to dry 1 or 2 days. I first sanded each coat with 0000 steel wool, but had problems with small splinters of the steel wool getting stuck in the wood. So I switched to 1500 grit wet or dry sandpaper. After several coats, I would wet the sandpaper in a bowl of water. It made the finish very smooth, and kept the paper from loading up.

No stain was used.

One handle I'm doing now seems to be a very oily wood. I had problems with the Tru-Oil staying tacky for many days. I sanded it off and started over. After each coat I heat the handle with a hair dryer for 2 or 3 minutes to set the finish. It seems to harden the finish before the woods natural oils can leach into it.

I'm not recommending these methods, just reporting what I've done. As always, your mileage may vary.:D

Thanks to Walosi and Yvsa for their input and past posts regarding refinishing handles!

Steve Ferguson
 
WHAOOOOOOOOOOO!

I am impressed! Thanks for sharing your tips and keep up posting new methodology. Surely this need to be in the FAQ.

PS: Anyway I can bribe you to do my knives????
 
I think Pala has a position open for a woodchuck and this work would probably be enough to convince him. 40 cents an hour and all the rice you can eat.
 
Originally posted by Bill Martino
I think Pala has a position open for a woodchuck and this work would probably be enough to convince him. 40 cents an hour and all the rice you can eat.
Click to expand...

That wage is mighty tempting, but I don't think I can work squatted down on the floor like the Kamis.;)

Steve
 
A question for fellow woodchucks.

Has anyone ever tried citri-strip on a khukuri handle? I have been using this stuff on a couple of old surplus rifles and it works great on cosmoline coated stocks. I think I might try it on my 17" AK this weekend and maybe on my Chitlangi. I'll post results.

Ryan
 
Very nicely done!!

I can see that I gotta get some Tru-Oil instead of messing about with the Gillespie brand stuff I've got. Lights up the wood OK, but doesn't build up a top coat quite like you've got.

I've grown to prefer fine sandpaper over steel wool too-- same problem unless all the grain is totally filled.

Direct (outside) sunlight seems to help the oil I'm using set better.
 
Being a gun nut I started with true oil a long time ago. If you want a satin finish, lightly buff with 0000 steel wool. Your graduations to finer grit were well thought out. Personally, I've given up on 800 or 1000 grit for wood. Maybe I'm wrong, but I can't tell the difference once it's finished. I no longer use steel wool to finish because I can't always get the fine particulates out. There is the wet to dry sanding method to consider also. Wet wood, allow to dry, sand off raised grain hairs with fine grit. Repeat. I liked your butter knife tool very much. The good thing about true oil, and probably linseed oil too, though it is slower drying, is no matter what happens, you can lightly brush another coat on and be good as new any day you like. You can also still oil the wood afterwards. Or wax. (if you use wax, you'll have to remove it before more true oil is applied.)

for my revolver handles, I just use oil. For these khuks, I've been listening to you guys and deferring to your judgement. A chopping knife handle gets a lot more abuse than a handgun generally and I'm betting needs a more aggressive, protective finish like true oil.

I've been considering using Danish finishing oil. Anyone know anything about this?

munk
 
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