applying polyurethane the right way??

B

BLADECARVER

Joined
Apr 8, 2007
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this may be off topic a bit but can anyone educate me on polyurethane i just can not apply this stuff right i always end up with a rough finish tiny bubbles ect... what can i be doing wrong? does it need to be thinned? not using the right applicator? what?
 
HI Bladecarver,
I try my best to stay away from polyurethane for that reason. If it has to be coated other than wax I like clear Watco Danish oil. Watco soaks in and rubs to a flat to satin finish. Some woods like Cocobolo don't even need a finish applied, just sand, 000 steel wool and buff. It can also be used on stag.
What are you putting the poly on???
 
How are you applying it? If its with one of those "sponge brush" type of things, you will get bubbles more often than not. The trick with those applicators is not to apply very much pressure. I have had pretty good luck applying it with a clean cloth to smaller areas. Just as a precaution, I rub it down with 0000 steel wool when it dries and the second coat goes on a bit smoother. Hope that helps. -Matt-
 
BLADECARVER said:
this may be off topic a bit but can anyone educate me on polyurethane i just can not apply this stuff right i always end up with a rough finish tiny bubbles ect... what can i be doing wrong? does it need to be thinned? not using the right applicator? what?
Click to expand...

I used to have the same problem. I'll apply the polyurethane liberally and wait a minute or so, then rub it in with a paper towel, and repeat.

then after it has dried/cured, I'll do it again after steal wooling with fine steel wool. One or two coats using the same method (allowing for drying) seems to work for me.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Jim L.
 
I've had real good results refinishing cues with MinWax Wipe On-Poly. I use lint-free rags folded into pads. I pour some into a container, dip the pad and apply in long overlapping strokes. I find it goes on best in the 60-75F range (at least for me). Like many polyurethanes, it does yellow slightly (there are water based ones that do not yellow). Here is a cue I did with the Wipe-On (above one with the original finish from the maker; not sure what he uses.)
53erfj5.jpg

Regards,
Greg
 
I'm with Ripper on this one - wipe-on Poly was made precisely to solve this problem. comes in satin or gloss finish. I have and use both. :thumbup:
 
Most wiping varnishes, including polyurethanes, are simply the brushing product thinned to about 50% with paint thinner. It can also be sprayed smoothly after thinning, but why dirty another apparatus on such a small project?
 
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