Are G10 handles impervious to chemicals?

Pretty much, I once used straight bleach to break loctite on the clip screws on one of my Kershaws. Soaked that part of the handle in uncut bleach (normal cleaning kind, it's an organic solvent) for about 4 hours and the G10 was not at all effected.
 
The fiberglass part of G10 is just that: glass. Which is not bothered by too many chemicals.

The other part is epoxy. The exact epoxy may vary from brand to brand but I would treat it like ordinary plastic. Acetone will probably dissolve it.
 
John_0917 said:
Pretty much, I once used straight bleach to break loctite on the clip screws on one of my Kershaws. Soaked that part of the handle in uncut bleach (normal cleaning kind, it's an organic solvent) for about 4 hours and the G10 was not at all effected.
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Wow, all it takes is a little heat. No need for chemicals at all, pretty sure all bleach is toxic.
 
I dip my knives into black oxide with the scales attached, and nothing has ever happened.
 
Jastab said:
I dip my knives into black oxide with the scales attached, and nothing has ever happened.
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please expand, are you using a kit? All I found is spray cans. Does this hold up over time and use?
 
I wouldn't think much could hurt G10 at all. My Sere 2K has been exposed to just about everything short of plutonium and it's fine. I've cleaned it with wd40, acetone, reagent grade alcohol, brake cleaner, bore scrubber, etc. No change at all.
 
I was looking this up because I planned to use acetone on my pivot screw because I tried heat 3x to break the locktite but it didn't work at all so I was hoping acetone will work
 
The only thing Ive seen to hurt G10 is ultraviolet radiation from being left in the sun, and fire damage from being in a house fire. Both caused delamination of the G10. So just don’t leave your knife outside for months in the sun and grab your knives if your house is on fire.
 
viper576 said:
I was looking this up because I planned to use acetone on my pivot screw because I tried heat 3x to break the locktite but it didn't work at all so I was hoping acetone will work
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Heat is what is normally used to break a loctite bond. You just have to be carefull not to use too much of it, what I do is heat up a piece of metal (a coat hanger would do), then touch the screw with it, never apply the heat source directly.
 
I have tried heat even direct using soldering iron that hits 900 and a heat gun that hits 1000 and the dang thing is still locked up. I decided to try heat 1 more time with the soldering iron and then use my impact driver to hopefully break it free.
 
viper576 said:
I have tried heat even direct using soldering iron that hits 900 and a heat gun that hits 1000 and the dang thing is still locked up. I decided to try heat 1 more time with the soldering iron and then use my impact driver to hopefully break it free.
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At that point I'd suspect something other than loctite preventing the removal. Either corrosion, or a bottomed out screw that riveted itself, or cross threaded on last install. You might have to drill the head out if it doesn't come off, and if it get to that you will need a new scew and pivot.
 
G-10 is hella tough. It's more resistant to toxic chemicals than just about any other material used for knife scales, making it ideal for warehouses, industrial sites, and for mechanics.

It's also considered a flame retardant material, so while you are smoldering you can comforted to know that your knife scales are fine. The flames might ruin the heat treatment on your blade though; unless it's a really badly made one, in which case it might improve the heat treatment...
 
viper576 said:
I have tried heat even direct using soldering iron that hits 900 and a heat gun that hits 1000 and the dang thing is still locked up. I decided to try heat 1 more time with the soldering iron and then use my impact driver to hopefully break it free.
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Some knives have a pivot side that is non-functional and cannot physically turn. Try the screw on the other side of the knife. I have broken torx bits on false pivots before.
 
How to Remove Stubborn Screws from a Knife

According to the manufacturers of Loctite 263, the red Loctite used on Spyderco’s US-made knives, screws treated with it can be removed by applying heat. However, its specifications state that a temperature of more than 360 degrees Fahrenheit must be reached for it to soften. Such temperatures could easily damage the scales and other components of your knife. Instead, we recommend the following process:

1) Ensure that you have the proper size Torx® driver for your screws and that the driver head is in good condition. A single-piece, screwdriver-style driver works best.
2) Place your knife on a workbench or other hard surface. Use a paper towel or rag to protect the handle from scratches.
3) Insert the tip of the Torx driver into the screw head and ensure that it fits properly.
4) Tap the handle of the driver several times with a hammer to “shock” the screw and break the Loctite bond.
5) Maintain a firm, constant, downward pressure on the Torx driver as you rotate it to remove the screw.
6) If this method is not successful on the first try, repeat as necessary or return your knife to Spyderco with $5.00 for return shipping. We will loosen your knife’s screws upon request.

 
I have blue 243 I put it on myself I don't think I applied enough heat to it since I didn't feel it on the other side. I have a question do i need to try removing the screw after the heat or can it cool first? I wanted to glue the pivot to rubber then to my tile floor using hot glue.
 
viper576 said:
I have blue 243 I put it on myself I don't think I applied enough heat to it since I didn't feel it on the other side. I have a question do i need to try removing the screw after the heat or can it cool first? I wanted to glue the pivot to rubber then to my tile floor using hot glue.
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The idea of the heat is that it gets the loctite soft, so the fastener is easier to remove. Once it cool it become hard again, so you definitely want to remove the fastener while it's warm. But 243 is not that strong, you usually don't need heat to remove that, we use it as much for its sealing/anti-corrosion properties as for its locking properties, we usually use 263(the red one) for critical mounting.
 
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